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the 11/12/13 bottom teeth on a freehub have quite a wide flange and are already separate..
Only try this if you are checking out ratios. I did it and every time I stand and put more power it will slip off. My chain was 101% aligned and still it came of. The problem is that those wheels are designed to either climb or drop the chain.
I learned that the hard way while testing for gears....
I have never considered double chain setup, might be something to look into if you're built like the Hulk.
I have had a similar noise in the early stages of my setup, it was the chain just just staying on and then clinking' back into position. Changed the chainline by 3mm and tensioned it a bit more and no further issues. Regarding the type of chain, I run a SS specific from Rapide and have never broken one. But that might be due to my spaghetti type legs.
Thanks,
I use a standard BMX chain and the fear (previous encounters) of snapping a chain holds a sensitive spot (if you know what I mean)
I weigh about 95KG (not even close to over weigh) with no spaghetti type legs.
Thanks for the pointing to Rapide, I will check out their inexpensive chains and maybe use them. Will move about the chain line as well to see what gives, or not.....
Nice frame. I have a Scott Speedster 2 running on 38/14. Didn't know the 46/18 was the magic gear so I had to use an actuator.
I can still do a healthy 28 km/h ave alone on hills and 34 km/h ave with a group (70km) of angry looking pissed of roadies running expensive geared up bikes looking down on my SSS......
love this bolt on thing.....
I did the 947 this past weekend with the single speed. 3h19 across the line.
The bike was in perfect shape, but every time I laid down power on a uphill, I heard like "ting ting" coming from the chain or back wheel. So for fear of snapping a chain, I didn't lay down the power on uphills.
The question is......
double chains..... I use two of everything next to each other. Chain rings, chain and rear sprocket. There is enough space for it.
Any thoughts on this?
Still hasn't had her maiden voyage but she's fine-tuned and ready. 46-18 gear should be fast. Magic gear as it happens.
Nice frame. I have a Scott Speedster 2 running on 38/14. Didn't know the 46/18 was the magic gear so I had to use an actuator.
I can still do a healthy 28 km/h ave alone on hills and 34 km/h ave with a group (70km) of angry looking pissed of roadies running expensive geared up bikes looking down on my SSS......
love this bolt on thing.....
2
Born from the parts of long-dead bikes.
Wheels off a Spez, brake, bars and stem off a Simple Sam, Scott Speedster frame, random non-branded carbon fork.
Should make a swift commuter - possibly with wider bars and a front brake.
I have the same frame, also converted to a single speedster.......
I need to know the following, if the info is available.
Crank make and model, as well as the BB. I was told by my LBS that because of the setup (single speed 3 14 gearing) that my BB will now always take strain and be replaced sooner.
It has been replaced but now even the new BB is giving me squeaky sounds.
Please advise, if possible on the make and model or even what else I can use that will last.
thanks
in the making.....
Scott Speedster 2.....sorting the gearing out now. messed up the "fixed" hanger when the derailleur got caught up in the spokes. So I am very limited to what can be used as a tensioner as the thread got damaged when the derailleur got removed.....
Any suggestions?
So I recently replaced the old 48t crank (Bloody crank arm snapped) with a 53t crank.
The 48t was running a 17t cog, so the 53t got a 18t cog .... ratio was a bit heavy, especially considering the bike is going to spin the CTCT.
Last night I popped on a 20t cog, and surprise surprise, I hit the magic gear and could ditch the tensioner ..... for years I have tried in vain to get a magic gear on my bikes, and now I get it purely by chance. The bike is obviously easier to pedal, but will still be a little tough on the climbs .... but there is no way in hell I am giving up on this magic gear ratio as it stands!!
Pardon the dirty bike, but it is being used and ridden.
So reading through some of the older and newer posts, I still have no idea of what ratios to use.... and what route to take in my conversion....let me explain....
1. I have a drop out frame and DON'T want to use a tensioner unless I really really have to.
2. My rear derailleur is most probably bent (met some spokes) leading to nr 3...
3. My frame doesn't have a separate hanger....the hanger is part of the frame...and that was slightly bent.....it was bent back, couldn't see any cracks, so can be used in nr 4...
4. If I really really need a tensioner, cant I just chop the 105 derailleur shorter and use that as a tensioner?
I am on a strict budget but really like this thing you call cycling. And besides, single speedsters get more respect when they chop gears and still kicks ass....
Please help.....
if all else fails, try one + one = one long one 
This may already be out ther, but naturaly I cannot find it.
Does anybody have the split times for a sub 3 hour race at the 94.7 cycle challange and the amashove clasic race.
thanks
I heard that Cancer Clowns is also one to look out for. Check the ride for a purpose page and send a mail to them.
It doesnt matter. As long as it has the pockets and no extra holes in them its fine. If you want some cool cycling shirts, design them yourslef and get a printing company to make them for you. It more expensive that way.
If you want to ride for a good cause, ride for Cancer Clowns. check them out on bookface and Google....
cool topic.
Im going to that Wolwespruit on sunday. Riding there from Clubview. at about 7AM...Brrrrrrr
Anybody wants to join in, PM me so we can meet up.
The self learning idiot tried only the chain, (still keeping in mind all the good tips mentioned above) and the problems still exists... So the chainrings needs replacement... 
The next question. Do I need to remove the crank in order to remove all the chainrings? The two big ones are removed. (did not try the smaller one yet)
Good day,
As you might know, parts wear out, some faster than others, some never...
I have some of my parts since 2007. Worn part obviously replaced when they break, others still working fine for me, like the rear and front derailleurs, chain rings, sprockets, discs etc.
Chain rings:
Damaged on some of the big chaining teeth, but never missed or slipped a gear. The others still look fine.
Chain:
Stretched, needs replacement anyhow so I went into mud and water with it.
Rear deralleur:
Replaced wheels, still working fine
My problem now is the following: (Problem occurred after the muddy ride)
They chain hops on all three chain rings if power is applied. Put a spare chain on (also old but not as stretched as the Fu*&ed chain) and it hops less.
Is hopping on the front chain ring due to an overstretched chain?
What is the symptoms of a stretched chain?
thanks
I am 1.95m. Rode a Silverback Nabraska L for a very long time. Its fine for me. But like the other oke said, compare bike sizes and then decide. A L from one make is not always the same size as the next L manufacturer. The same goes for shoe sizes...
This is a topic on its own --> why would you (anybody) need to replace a frame that many times?
The frame was replaced that many times due to product failure. aka cracked frame. There is a topic about it as well around here somewhere.
Thanks - the chain did not break completely - If I can explain it, one of the rivets (if that is what you call them) popped on one side (probably not "squashed" enough to keep the link closed) causing the one side of the link to open outwards, this is what hooked on the cage of the derailleur bending it backwards. My daughter was riding up a short steep road so there would have been quite a bit of strain on the chain at the time (she is 24, so not a child)
Thrown stick, slightly out of place chain thingy will do the same thing...
I am a technical oke. I have broken chains via broken hangers and weak links and s****y workmanship on chain assemblies.
So here is how I think....
Most of the strain on any bike chain is at the top. So naturally the chain will break there first. So if the chain broke there, there would not have been a "link" - for the lack of a better word- between the chain ring and rear cogs that would be able to pull the jockey way past the hanger and stuffing the frame in the process.
BUT....
Throw a jockey with a stick and it shuts down, you give it some power to turn. NOW there is a link between the chain ring and rear cogs, the jockey will overtake the hanger, breaking it and damaging the frame. Once all this has gone to s**t, the chain will break because it will not be able to turn the wheel. this all can happen in two strokes while standing...
Just a thought
I speak of personal experience when saying that the service from Silverback is exeptional. They have replaced (from 2007 till now) 3 x Nabraska frames for me. The latest one being replaced by the 2013 Spectra 2.
I would rather blame the bike builder for a shitty assembly of the chain. My chain does not get looked after, sometimes running in mud and sand and other stuff, not breaking. so rather blame the bike builder, and repair it at a diffrent shop.
in Hans Strydom (Soloman something nowadays) a while back in peak hour traffic. I was in the yellow lane, correct side of the road and repeatedly had to move onto the gravel for sods who drove in the yellow lane.
A guy with a nice white car came from the front. I indicated to him in sign language ..dude, WTF??"
He indicated back that I must move out of his way. So I showed him how to forcefully remove his side mirror...he wasn’t pleased with my demonstration...like I care.
I use the Scamral e-toll roads almost every day...sometimes with a bike rack...for free...no bills up to date...they cant see me...
My 2012 Silverback Stride 10 frame was replaced with a 2013 (also cracked frame but on the Seat Tube just above the top tube weld). This frame is a lot better than my 2012 frame and a lot more like the more expensive 2012 26" models (like the Alpine and Spectra). Problem with the frame replacement is that I had to change gear cables to the full outer type (not really a problem and cheap). Also had to change the front Derailleur (top clamp did work with position of seat tube bottle cage screws). Make sure they also send you a Rear Derailleur Hanger.
Will be nice if Silverback replaces your frame again.
Hi. I still have a XL Nebraska, bought in 2008 if I remember correctly. Have done >5000km and no problems this far. As far as I am aware there is no real replacement frame for it anymore seeing a 26" bikes are not that popular...
The only issue I have had recently is pealing paint... Contacted the guys at Silverback and they sent me a Phoenix 26" frame as a replacement (only one similar and in XL). However, I have not changed frames because the seat post width is different and so is the front derailer mounting (please excuse spelling!). Thus, changing frames to me seems to be more trouble than it is worth. Luckily, my frame is still intact though.
Ciao.
So Silverback sent the new frame to the "shop" to be rebuild. Rebuild went fine until the "shop" guy told me the front deraileur will not fit.
I thought WTF.
Shimano will not manufacture a deraileur that will only fit on the Nebraska and another specificaly for the Spectra 2. SO I took the bike from the "shop", went home and low and behold. there are "spacers" to make the clamp alittle smaller. Once removed it fit onto the frame like a glove....
SO...use it, dont use it.....anycase, it fits and works....keep in mind the next time you swop a frame....
Single Speed Cogs
in Fixie & Singlespeed
Posted
I bought my 12t from Torq zone in Doorn Kloof. cant remember the price but it wast an arm or leg.
I have been running my 39T (standard from my 105 group set) up front with a 12T at the back. it isn't the (magic) set as I needed a chain guide to keep the chain tout.
haven't looked back since and I keep on pissing on a couple of roadies egos....