BikeMax

Pops - the figures do look to be overstated at 78kgs (i think you said that is your weight) The overall figure of 320w NP is way too high in relation to the average power figure of 202w (Variability of 1.58) - this may be most likely to have been caused by spikes in the power during the ride (it is a known tendency of the Ibike) - this throws off the normalised power figures. The average power figures look a little better although also a little overstated. I would spend some time talking to some Ibike users that may be able to help you with the device and getting it set up properly.

Popeye - 1087w NP for 1.45 is way off I am afraid. You need to redo all the steps I would imagine - I cannot advise further as I am afraid I have no real experience with the Ibike.

Marius breaks everything

Brilliant - well done ! Now you get to start configuring those graphs.. Don't forget to set up a performance manager chart (PMC) as it is not one of the defaults -just select it from the drop down on the top right of the home page - and then set base CTL/ATL valuse based on your last 6 weeks of training. Good luck.

Dirk is Joe's son - but I think he is also Training Peaks and not CP.

You can download from our site - cost is $99 and regardless of CD or download, it is limited to one PC. The best software available IMO.

Oh no ... how did you find out about that? So that is how you got back to the bunch at Malmesbury ....

Pedalling efficiency... cmon guys you'll be buying Q rings next Work = force x distance and neither changing the phase, or the speed of the pedalling will help you get faster. Limiter = CV capacity - I don't care what you do to the pedal stroke, you still need to feed the working muscles with O2 to allow them to do the work you are asking of them.

Just as a rider to that; 1. The elevation trick (riser) block has been shown to have no effect 2. Cadence is largely irrelevant as it is the intensity that matters - lets not forget that we are not trying to increase strength here and so low cadence has no bearing 3. Generally the limiter to climbing is FTP (60 min power) and this is best trained with efforts of >15 mins at 95-105% FTP or around 85-90% MHR - so an ideal IDT session for improving climbing would be 2 x 20 mins with 10 min rest in between. 4. Keep it simple and be sure to get the intensity right - not much else matters. Bikemax, I definitely believe that FTP is key BUT I have been wondering about the cadence thing for a while now. As you probably know, I tend to do most of my intervals (L4 & L5) on hills because a) It is difficult to find a flat piece of road that will let me do 20 minutes @ L4 uninterupted b) because it's easier. I can't achieve the same output on the flats as I can on the hills and I've come to the conclusion that it's because I am not training at higher cadence. It seems to me that the effect is different on the body i.e. ftp @ 75-85rpm feels a whole lot different to ftp @ 95-105rpm. Maybe I'm just still soft. The reason you find it easier to put out a higher power on a climb is that you are riding against a forced resistance. When we used the lab bikes I would always find guys could perform better when using the fixed power output ergo mode as opposed to having to use the gears to "make" the power. Cadence only really has an impact on power output in so far as the faster the cadence, the higher the HR - so from an aerobic point of view it may feel harder to pedal at 110rpm than at 80rpm (not because of the power output but because of the 02 demands of the faster cadence) Most studies have shown that slef selected cadence is the best way to go for max power output in endurance cycling.

Increase resistance Basically Increase resistance he he' date=' not easy simulating hills on a IDT. One of the tricks with an IDT is to try and do the same as what you would doing the real thing, even going as far as using the recovery periods to simulate riding down hill (loooow resistance big gear light pedaling or spinning with a corresponding drop in HR / EFFORT. You can also try the following: ? Add an extra block (couple of inches high) of something under the front wheel to simulate an uphill gradient (apparently this helps to activate the correct hill climbing muscles). ? Don?t just grind heavy gears, mix it up by alternating a few minutes at different cadences (whilst keeping within your training zone) i.e. With a resistance setting slightly higher than normal do 1minute each @ 75 rpm, 85rpm, 95 rpm, 100rpm, 95 rpm, 85 rpm 75 rpm ? recover 5 ? 7 minutes with easy resistance and repeat x 2 [ do only 1 if it is the 1st time, progressing to 2 and 3 or more as you get used to it']. ? Do some low cadence (75 ? 80 rpm) pedaling with a slightly higher gear setting (at a normal resistance) keeping the effort / HR < 80% max, start off with 1 rep building up to 8 reps of 10 min with 5 -10min recovery between. ? Set a higher resistance to simulate +/- 5-8% gradient and do some short 1-2 minute HARD race like efforts (like you are chasing a breakaway / attack), followed by 1 minute at a slightly lower effort, then repeat until you cannot maintain the speed obtained in the first effort. Have IDT, HAVE FUN... Just as a rider to that; 1. The elevation trick (riser) block has been shown to have no effect 2. Cadence is largely irrelevant as it is the intensity that matters - lets not forget that we are not trying to increase strength here and so low cadence has no bearing 3. Generally the limiter to climbing is FTP (60 min power) and this is best trained with efforts of >15 mins at 95-105% FTP or around 85-90% MHR - so an ideal IDT session for improving climbing would be 2 x 20 mins with 10 min rest in between. 4. Keep it simple and be sure to get the intensity right - not much else matters.

Unless it is very windy then I have never had a problem - even with 58mm deep 404's deep section are faster in the wind too - they deflect all wind better. They are also stiffer and more durable due to shorter spoke length. Maybe a good compromise is a 30-40mm depth ( I have Reynolds Alta's at 32mm)

I would go deep section on balance - I have both and always find myslef choosing the deep section over the lighter wheels for racing in CT.

Self selected cadence has been shown to give best results - forget about it and ride where it works for you.

Ice and transact

There are some comparative power stats on the blog at www.bikemaxpower.com for those that are interested