Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

That is a very interesting article, thanks!

Sweet. Good to get real world feedback to back up the theory... And yeah. Reign. Not very tall at all either. 1.8 dead.

It's just a render... Digital designer Germain Baillot has given us a glimpse into the future with these images of a potential watch that boasts an adjustable dial depending on the city and the time zone you're in, which also allows you to check the time in several cities at the same time. All this great tech combined with its silver and rose gold colourways with red detailing makes it one of the sleekest and most advanced concept timepieces we've seen. So let's hope the alarm goes off and this dream is brought into reality.

that's why I want to switch from my 175's to a set of 165's. I get loads of pedal strikes due to my very low BB and a bit of muppetry on the bike. Yes, I know that in order to maintain the same cadence (and therefore speed) I'll need to put out more net power (about 3%) due to the decreased torque that the shorter crank arm allows, but that just means more gainzzzz for me in the long run.

Yes. Also, some people are more able to adapt to the more exaggerated hip and knee angles than others/

potentially, but only due to the fact that you will be slightly more cramped due to the more acute angle of your hip flexors and / or knees at the top of the rotation. But again - that would be down to a physiological difference between 2 people. Some are more flexible, others not. Likewise with muscle development. Point is, crank length has nothing at all to do with cadence. It DOES, however, affect your foot's angular velocity - ie the speed at which your foot is rotating around the circle you're pedalling. But that's not cadence.

So much fail in this video. Some stuff he gets right, but other stuff is just way off and he conflates several terms and concepts. Let's start. Crank length has fokkol to do with gearing. The variables determining gearing are: wheel circumference; chainring size; cog size. The end. A smaller crank arm may allow you to spin at a higher max rpm due to the smaller distance your foot is travelling but it will not change your required cadence to hit a certain speed. Nor will crank length change your cadence. If you're pedalling at 100rpm you're doing that regardless of length. And if you're doing that with a 53t ring your chain is moving Xcm per revolution regardless of crank length. A smaller crank will also require you to put out a higher net power figure to overcome the loss of torque, due to the shorter lever. If you increase rpm, you increase speed. The crank is just the lever that you use to turn that blade.

No. Chainring size affects cadence at a given speed. Not crank length. You may be more abke to maintain a given cadence with a certain crank length due to certain physiological differences, but it will not change how many rpm you need to maintain to go Xkph. You're still turning the same amount of teeth.

Yeah but the VAT and ATB isn't calculated at time of purchase. Only at time of clearance

Niiiiice!

Yeah!!!! Loiks flippin awesome!

Sometimes there are THOSE tyres.

3% difference in leverage over a 175 which makes it "easier" to turn a gear. Down side... Very bad pedal clearance

Yes. Unless you're at the sharp end and your skills are significant enough to overcome the lack of mechanical grip from the weenie tyre. Also - rolling resistance should be considered on the REAR tyre. That's where the majority of the weight sits when on the saddle and grinding on the pedals, and therefore that's where your rolling resistance concerns should be.

I'd hardly call that strictly hardpack - more loose over hard, but I could be wrong. Bear in mind even a small layer of stuff over hardpack means it's no longer just hard. And S2C would be very varied terrain. Also - bear in mind that a burlier tyre would offer superior grip in a far wider set of conditions than just hardpack. That, in my opinion, is why people should go for a burlier front tyre. Not even gravel grinding is hardpack... that's loose over hard. And what happens when it rains?

Also remember that the Google rate is the mid-rate, and the rate at which you buy GBP will always be higher than that by between 2 - 3% or so, depending on your carrier.

It bears to mention that the only place you'll ever find this sort of unvaried terrain is on pump tracks, BMX tracks & dirt jumps that are swept and pampered every day.

yes & yes & yes. Bigger knobs can cut through the sand to the bottom more easily, as well as offer a bigger platform on which to float over it (sorta the best of both worlds) Likewise with pebbles - burlier tyres will allow the knobs to dig through to the bottom more easily, and stones over hardpack - the same. Rather allow a single "spike" knob to hit bottom than to skate over the top of all of it. Only time an aggressive tyre would really lose out is on pure hardpack, really...

depends on the bike, IMO. On some, it works. On others.... yeah naaaaah

You can, and if you ride hard and on the front in rocky terrain it's recommended. But mostly, the rear takes most of the weight in the corners and rocks etc. Whilst you can loft the front wheel to clear gnar, the rear often takes more of a beating. Generally speaking. Me - I'm a big bad casing front and back kinda guy.

If you go Ibex, go for the 2.4. FAR better than the 2.25. Superior grip, slightly more weight but it's definitely worth it.

Still - could be very good for their budget going forwards.

They are....

TBH I think he does. If you remember last year, he was pretty darn consistent on that Suzi, and he seems to be gelling REALLY well with the Yamma. If he carries on like that, it's gonna be a ding-dong battle for the 2 of them!

First to Tokai for a not very lekker but lekker nevertheless sorta ride. Was climbing well (for me) but it was just one of those times where the flow just wasn't there. Then to the green belt with my lightie, wiff and hond for a chilled 2km cycle. That needs to happen more often!