Captain Fastbastard Mayhem

depends on the shades concerned. A combo of baby blue and lumo green would send me into a frothing frenzy...

bring it on. It'll only exacerbate the mayhem, and bring on more pain for the rest of them!

Yep, my thoughts exactly. The market, after all, will buy whatever you say is good for them. Still a waste of gears.

run 10 speed clusters but only use 5? Kinda stoopid, really. Only thing I can think of is that they'll adopt the 2:1 shifting strategy that Shim has, or insert some sort of a reduction / enlargement gear in the shift line... Thereby effectively only using 5 cogs! Change, shift 2. Change, shift 2. you know what I mean?

How does it do on the drops & jumps? Suppose you have to be REALLY smooth, much like riding a BMX. If you pick the wrong line, or stuff up a landing...

Erm... Depends on which you go for... Alligator rotors are pretty good. I've got windcutters And they cool down well, and stop me nicely. They're about R 200 per rotor. The other option is a set of Avid Cleensweeps, which are a bit more expensive at approx R 400 each, but they're good. Then the pads (swisstop) vary in price from R 200 to R 400 per set, depending on where you go to get them.

Well, the first clue is "mine", as in the thing what you get diamonds out of. the 2nd part of the description, I ain't allowed to say on a family forum. But, at its original meaning, the latter part of the description was meant as a term to describe a "non-believer" At its basest, it means Pretty Fkn Hard. Just please don't tell me the trail worship is gonna be this weekend, or the weekend of the 23rd & 24th. This weekend = study. I'm in Dbn from the 18th - 25th. Work.

And just seen the little warning on your rotors... "resin pads only" if you go for sintered pads, you'll have to change the rotors as well. If you do that, go for some Swisstop pads though. Good stuff!

Dude... you're gonna be working like a previously disadvantaged mineperson! WE will make sure of it!

Sintered, for sure. But just check your rotors, 'cos they might be resin specific! Resin does stop far easier, but they tend to overheat a lot faster than their sintered cousins. They also wear a lot faster!!! As for the wear, they shouldn't be shot after just 100km. No way. Unless you've been braking the whole time on a 15% downhill!

I think he meant suspension fork... He's just about to buy a Scott Aspect 30, and is thinking abt upgrading the fork to a lighter, plusher model!

Just don't think you have the time, imho. I mean, imagine thinking you're in the right gear. Then, no, wait. I should be in 8th. Why am in in 9th? oh, feck! I'm actually in 10th! I think it's bad for the very same reason that it's good on road / xc bikes. On them, you need that infinite tuneability when you hit a slight incline, or you just need to pedal just that LITTLE bit harder or faster. With a 10sp DH cluster, you'd constantly be spinning out, then changing gear when in fact you need to pedal, change, pedal harder, change, jump. Coast. Pedal change pedal pedal pedal change. Just takes your finger away from either your brakes, or your thumb away from the position where it's acting as a supporting brace on your bars.

I *think* it's a DT Swiss full carbon jobbie. Around the 8 or 9k mark, I seem to recall... 100mm, XC only.

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: AWESOME!!! You know that this just means I have to get that new bike sooner than planned. Now to raid the piggy. Damn. 'Tis empty!!! Guess my hardtail will need to harden up for some proper action! Awesome news, Pain. Just say the word and I'll be there with axe, shovel, fork & saw. And a heckload of pent-up aggression to rip into anything we need to.

bada bada bing! edd zachary.

Exactly right, grb... I was just trying to say that IF they were worried about traction, rather wrap the individual poles as opposed to putting a chickenwire blanket over the thing. It should be a piece of piss to negotiate, even in its naked form after a cape summer/winter/spring bef0k of a climate change thing with slime all over it. Momentum, momentum, momentum.

I'd rather wrap the struts themselves with chickenwire if you're worried about traction. The blanket application of the chickenwire creates an uninterrupted surface for the livestock to walk on. I know cows etc are heavy as feck, but chickenwire is very strong when exteded over 100mm gaps...

Dude, do you have to ask?! Definitely a 6. Something like a Reign or a Da Bomb Cherry Bomb. Try just selling the frame & fork of your anthem, then porting all the parts over! Or, you could look at obike.co.za and see what deals they have on Mongoose Bootr's and Pinnr's. GOOD DEALS for a new bike! And they're strong as well.

Knobby - why don't you sell the DS 26er and get a sweeet all mountain rig? For those days that you just wanna have FUN!

LOL @ Pain or Shine!! I think the OP also means DEPTH, not WIDTH, of the rim. Fk, if I had an 80mm WIDE rim, I'd be able to hit ANYTHING and just NOT CARE! But I don't wanna know how hard I'll have to trun those frikkin pedals to get back up the hill...

no, sorry - must have missed something in translation, or my explanation was ***. I'll go for the former option, thank you All new forks come with a standardized steerer tube lengh. Thus, they are all of equal length when they come out the factory. Generally in the region of 350mm or so. Therefore, you don't need to know what length your current steerer tube is if you're going ot be buying a NEW fork (ie: one that hasnt been cut yet) as you are the person who is going to cut it to the proper length just before you install it. If, on the other hand, you are buying a SECOND HAND fork, or a demo one which has already had the steering tube cut (sometimes bike shops have these as clients might have swopped out a fork that came with a bike for a higher spec one, therefore the steerer tube would already have been cut to fit that bike) THEN you will have to measure the distance between the top of your stem and the top of the fork's crown (the metal bit that the 2 fork arms connect to) Measure before you buy, and measure 3 times to be sure. Unless you're buying a new fork. Then you nly have to measure before you cut the new one down to size. Or, you could take the existing fork off and just measure its steerer tube, but that's giving you a bit more work than you need.

Dude, that sucks! I might not be able to make this weekend. No, scratch that. I WON'T be able to make this weekend. I'm writing an exam on Monday - If I don't pass it, my license as a Financial Advisor is up for ****. It's one of those Regulatory Exams on the FAIS & FICA acts. So, I'm studying my ass off, even though I know all of it. Just don't want to be caught out by the way they word the questions...

steering tube length will be standard on a new fork, and it will need to be cut with a hacksaw when you install it to get the right length for your bike. This is very easy, I did it with mine. Just remember to file it smooth again, and measure EXACTLY the same length as the one you're replacing before you cut. Check 3 times, check again, then cut. For a 2nd hand fork, measure the distance between the top of your stem to the top of the fork crown, and you'll have the length you need to look for before you commit to a purchase.

Another one to look at is possibly a Niner, or a GT Force 29er. Not only spaz & Trek/Fisher that do them...

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