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ROFL. Never, dude. Only a few select LBS's actually do that.
They should do that, yes. Do they? No. They should also fit a quicklink once done. Do they? No.
Again, a generalisation
Sad but true.
They don't. It's also frame size specific. Longer seat stay = longer chain etc.
Far easier to just put a generic uncut chain on the bike.
Also - it would imply some sort of initiative.
LBS should have done those small things 
Yes. And in this config the RD must be stretched like hell. Almost to the limit.
Shouldn't they cut new bike chains to length?
Noli - is your chain the right length? I know from personal experience that a chain with even 2 links too many has a dramatically higher chance of coming off than one of the right length.
+1, sounds like a chain that is too long. Use the over big blade and biggest cog method for measuring it.
My feeling about a sram vs shimano debate (if this was one) is that sram makes better top end groupos but shimano makes better budget groupos. XT is faultless but if you have the money, x0 is a damn fine setup. All exluding brakes, think shimano takes that one by a mile.
WTF did I say wrong...... i took the time to search and give help.
Now go and stuff everything up and I hope it costs you a shyteload of money.
If I took your post up the wrong way then I apologise.
All sorted out. Think I dropped some oil while cutting the cable. Got shimano mineral oil (R130), and 2 x 10ml syringes (R5.80) and bled them using the method in the link.
Good to know theres no air in your brakes.
Found this excellent read on how to bleed the 2012 style shimano brakes, with some diy goodies.
http://www.bikesmoveus.com.au/showthread.php?5312-Cheap-DIY-bleed-kit-for-2012-Shimano-brakes
Dangerous advice that - only worth doing if you like having your intestines ripped out from below before having your head chewed off while your kids look on.
(From someone who inhabits both worlds.)
Daar sal sewe soorte *** wees 
The best way to learn is through mistakes!
You didnt do much wrong, just dont shorten them at the callipers but rather on top at the levers and dont loosen or fiddle with callipers! After shortening, just bleed them and you will be set! Hope you come right, otherwise no riding for you this weekend!
Exactly!
Also, didn't shorten at calipers, shortened at levers but used the calipers to supposedly bleed them.
The "no lever pressure" is probably from no oil in the system, will have to go get a bleed kit, should have bought one long ago but shimano brakes are just so trouble free, never needed them.
A great site for this DIY info is the Park Tool site.
Don't give up and do it again.
Don't mind old grumpy diaper. Most likely his hip giving problems again.
Was there (http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/brake-service-and-repair) they don't have any new articles. On shimano brakes. Latest seems to be 2009.-
Why did you push the pistons out?
This has got nothing to do with shortening of the hose and in all likelyhood you now need to rebuild the calipers.
".......but the rear had some mineral oil next to the caliper and there was no pressure in the lever."
Could you explain this more as I don't understand what you are trying so state here
Refer to my comment for jorsie.
Ok, so the brakes where on the bike (cables were clipped in (the cables where attached to the frame) but the calipers where hanging loose), after shortening there was mineral oil on the floor at the rear caliper (why would there be oil?)
Why did you take out brakepads? Just take out cable on top at lever, follow the what you did then! Put back hose at brake lever! If you did not mors any fluid, it should work fine, otherwise just bleed them till all bubbles are out and then Fred's your uncle!
Cause that is what the steps in the link said I should do. Found the link on mtbr (I think) few guys tried those steps and it worked a treat.
What is this cable you speak of?
Never ever ever ever pull the lever with no pads or a disc fitted to the caliper. Bad things happen.
Also, when a hose is shortened you need to bleed the brakes to be 100% correct.
Shimano hydraulic disc brake cable. Like deore/slx/xt (new models).
The idea behind removing the pads and then pulling the levers to get the pistons out (not all the way) was to push all the air that got in when cutting the cable back into the reservoir afterwards when you push them back).
Google is your friend!!!!!!!
http://www.bbinstitu..._chapter_37.pdf
http://www.shimano.c...69830688492.pdf ....... This is just a guideline on what is available on the Shimano Technical site.
You don't think someone else will/have cut their own hoses without needing them bled? This thread will hopefully give some info on what I did wrong, how to correct it, and how to prevent it for future reference.
Googled and could not find a straight answer to someone who messed up shortening their shimano disc brake hoses.
Tried pumping the lever as per one user's advice but that does nothing. So I suspect there is a air leak in the system but I don't know.
Now, I get the feeling you are still sour about a comment I made, you made your reply and I left it at that, I would appreciate it if you keep your unjust comments to yourself.
Ok, I know this was discussed before but somehow the forum's search option is as good as Zuma's word.
I shortened my new disc brake's hoses yesterday, followed a link I got on the web. It is for shimano 2011 and up but it went south.
Loosened the calipers, took out the pads, pulled the lever a few times to get the pistons out, loosened the nut on the lever, took out cable, cut to desired length, insert olive, hammer in the small pin thing while clamped into the yellow blocks, insert cable, tighten until you need the spanner, then another 1/4 turn, use tyre lever to push back the piston (only one came out?), insert pads and bobs your uncle...
But no, after all this the front brake was fine, but the rear had some mineral oil next to the caliper and there was no pressure in the lever.
I did give the cable a good clean cut.
What did I do wrong and how do I fix it?
I think the problem starts with drivers who drive way too slowly, trucks and everyone who are a frustration to those road users who drive on the speed limit or a bit below it.
Those that drive half or even less of the speed limit is causing motorists to get impatient. Now when you pass the 10th truck, and 5th cream isuzu bakkie with a canopy that is roped onto the back end and some people inside, then you start losing your cool. That is where things get dangerous.
PS: forgot to mention those CF numberplate okes.
Your are mostly preaching to the choir here.... 
Haha, Wayne should go post that on the 4x4 forums.
No matter the system, the best/cleverest/hardest working will always get a larger reward, but man that reward can be unimagineably obscene these days.
Whatever anyone says about years of study, hard work etc there is an imbalance in the market place between bottom and top earners , it's a global phenomenon, an entrenched status quo that is accelerating. Probably is going to be a bit of a market correction in the future but the underlying formula is not going to change for a very long time.
It's a house always wins situation and the so called undeserving lowly workers doing vital jobs are the constant losers, it's always been that way but we are supposed to be in civilized times?
The fact is all jobs are vital but some can be fulfilled by a greater pool of people so the unscrupulous have space to exploit. The issue is its not the amount the bottom are paid its the disparity with the upper earners that is despicable.
Life is a club, make sure you join the right one or you will get screwed.
Capitalism (or whatever word you want to call any system that puts maximizing profits over sustainability) which is what underlies all this and has been around since time immemorial really is a pile of sh1t3, innovation and human development is not dependent on capitalism. Capitalism does in very narrow corridors accelerate innovation and development but at huge negative cost to humankind and the planets resources. Capitalism is unsustainable, it's a consciousness that preys on the collective greed. That's the confounding thing about it all, everyone wants to moan about the situation but the situation is everyone's fault.
Open source is the way forward but how boring and tedious for the greedy.
Funnily enough the problem really is so many are greedy, not just the wealthy - the workers could overcome the rich men's entrenched system in a day but their individual greed blinds them. Most workers would slit each others throats and take the money any day and they want to point fingers at the rich men...
So who can you really blame?
As high as a kite..!
Saw bmc, radioshack and focus...? No problems here.
Bogus bud, per your request.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/9148409585_edf4e0a236_b.jpg
IMG_3103 by OddPix1, on Flickr
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3762/9148422583_6e1974b64b_b.jpg
IMG_3106 by OddPix1, on Flickr
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/9148421547_f63cc48818_b.jpg
Nee kyk nou is Suid-Afrika op die map!
Protek frame (imported from china)
Groupset is xx1
wheels are custom build, 1380g for the set
just less than 9kg for the full bike
R1 brakes?
The question is for how long are you going to run 3x10 drivetrain? If you go 11-36 you have the option to go 2x10 later on...
11-34 24/32/42
11-34 is more than enough. The XT 11-34 is nice and light.
(From someone who inhabits both worlds.)
Unethical seller.
in The Bike Room
Posted
While on the oakley topic...
Bought oakleys from Junior Alberts (aka Marius Alberts), from Rawsonville 2 weeks ago, the bliksem sold me a fake pair of radarlocks.
Afterwards I notified him of this and got into a hectic argument but I threatened him as I now knew where he lives and knows his name and I met him and got my money back.
So keep an eye out for buying thins on the classifieds. Rather meet the person face to face and don't settle on sending the items off before the payment has been cleared.
I want to trust people but it seems some of them spoil everything for the rest of us.