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Not sure what deffo means in your part of the world but if it means definitely not ... then I agree.
Smallblock8 is the k@kest tire you can put on the front.
Put it on the front as a slick when you are doing the Funride World Champs on your naainer.
Seriously though ... how many tire freds are there on the hub now?
Best all rounder Racing Ralph Snakeskin front and rear.
Most durable and longest lasting Maxxis Ardent front, Crossmark rear
That was sarcasm sheldon...
+10 000 on the rest.
Very good advice thus far. I'm not a big fan on whey after cycling. Prefer a coffee, maybe a fruit like a banana and then eating some food with carbs, protein and fat in them.
But what do we know. Not like we cycle competitively, well most of us.
My new steed...
Rocky Mountain fusion 29
Just be careful around the loose over hardpack corners.
Ja similar, was on the left cusion of left hand. Takes about 4-6 weeks depending on how bad it is. It is a slow process. Hands very complex. Use lots of anti inflammatory drugs for the first 5-7 days, then stop all the pills. Nothing. Sounds like you are out of the 7 days period so all you can do is rest the hand.
Maybe take in some extra protein, glutamine or w/e for recovery, don't know if it will work though.
Good luck, a hand is a bugger.
Been spending too much time in here: http://forums.mtbr.com/niner-bikes/
Then I came when I saw this>
What I do is go into endomondo, log in, go to the routes tab, then under all routes select your sport and then zoom in to where you want to find routes. Zoom some more and the routes will become visible on the left pane, now just click on the favorites star.
They can now be located under "my routes".
Price hahaha... CWC has them at R450 a tyre... Anything more I think is a waste of money...
Have a look at the spez ground control as well.
Update from the OP who started this rant.
I received my refund from CWC today as promised.
I noticed from all the comments that there are only a few that had similar problems, thus CWC is not doing too badly.
I do not have any motive other than to highlight my particular problem and venting my frustration (I am already feeling better as a result). I understand "Murphy's Law" very well. This is a text book example of if something can go wrong it will go wrong.
I have a lot of respect for both Chris senior and Chris junior. I am not attacking them. I also just wanted to say "watch-it". I could have easily walked away with a set of 29er wheels, which are worth much more than the 26ers I ordered (and sell them on the Hub, make a profit and go back and buy the 26ers and put money in my pocket).
Maybe it was just a wake-up call to stop upgrading my wife's 26er and buy her a 29er instead!
Maar jy het hulle goed stil gemaak.
Oh, and get your flamesuit on greybeard.
Me neither, it's physically impossible for a HT to be as comfortable as a dual, the rear suspension is designed to keep the rear wheel on the ground. What does this on a HT? Oh yeah, I remember now, nothing. You just bounce around.
It appears you have never ridden a properly set up dual if you think your hard tail is as smooth as a dual.
Never said it is.
Ridden a santa cruz tallboy, giant anthem, and a specialized epic. SC was like riding on a cloud. Extremely nice bike but trail orientated. Anthem was something in the middle, much softer than the HT I ride but also a lot slower in certain conditions. Specialized was hard, front brain and rear brain made it feel more like a HT than a DS.
"a 29er HT will come close to a DS"
That is like saying a 80mm reba will come close to a 120mm reba with regards to how soft they ride. But I mentioned that the 120mm reba I road was pumped up to high pressure, and the 80mm reba I ride, is running low pressure. They can both give the same amount travel, it just depends on which pressures they are.
Hi peeps!
I'm currently in the market for a new or used bike and doing a bit of research. I have a question that I think would be quick and easy to answer for most hubbers
If I understand correctly it's better to get a bike that has a tapered head tube as it provides better stability/stiffness or whatever. I see that the cheaper 29ers aren;t tapered.
Now I saw a 2011 Momsen AL329 that I might buy and on the spec sheet where the frame is described it does not state tapered, hoever the fork that's on the bike is a RS recon silver air, taper crown. Does this now suggest that the head tube on the frame is also tapered? Here's a link to the specific bike I'm speaking of http://www.momsenbik...=134&Itemid=663
If I also understand the following correctly, it's better to get a bike with a tapered head tube as it's easier to upgrade the fork in the future as there are more high end forks like the Reba available to replace the RS sivler recon etc?
Please give a noob some clarity on this matter.
Much appreciated
I don't buy into that bs. Bike handling is more about a lot of things mixing well together. Go ride a GT zaskar with the straight steerer and you will see.
Mmm sounds interesting, are DTswiss hubs almost as bullet proof as Hopes?
And are they really that silent, like the cheap Shimano freehubs are virtually noise free?
American classic. Mine is probably a few years old now, and still as good as new. Freehub body with the steel inserts stay free of big insert marks. And they are quiet. Sounds more like a diesel vs the v12 of the hopes.
Still cannot get my head around that .....
Ja sorry, all relative to how low the tire pressure is, what HT frame you ride, what DS frame you are comparing it to, what tire the DS have at the back, what pressure it is run and the pressure of the rear can.
My HT is soft as butter oom 
.
Edit: was referring to comfort.
It would be a lot softer, more sluggish acceleration, much heavier etc. Depends on what DS it is, and what HT you had. Unless you are very soft, a 29er HT is enough for most. With 2.25 racing ralphs at the back a 29er HT will come close to a DS. My HT is softer than a friend of mines specialized epic, That brain suspension is pretty rough.
Try the shock out with a bit more pressure and lose as much weight as you can. Enjoy!
As for a tire vs the raceking, there are not a lot of tires that can wash out as easily as a raceking. Especially on loose over hard pack.
If you are interested I have a few almost new racing ralph snakekskins in the garage, pm me.
Have mostly heard good things about the fast track, it has a thin sidewall so keep that in mind. My combo at the moment is racing ralph snakeskin 2.25 front and racing ralph evo 2.25 back.
I ride rocky terrain and haven't had any issues with sidewall cuts. Very light combo and the racing ralph rolls nicely, not as fast as a raceking though. You could also try racing ralph snakeskin front and maxxis ikon rear for much longer lasting tread.
But as rouxtjie will say to you, snakeskin is a must, at least in the front for me, not as fat as he is ????
If someone is prepared to pay the money for the goods, let them....all good. When I buy or sell I normally go with the following rule. 60% of the new prices if goods weren't used. If they were....the price drops from there.
True, but just like those "stop to opt out sms", it's bloody irritating.
We seriously need some filters on adds, and a 100 post before you advertise policy.
Sometes opening the classifieds is like opening wantitall
Are you part of a club?? Absolute FLAMING
in The Bike Room
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