Tieffels

Is that for the 380ml Bicycle bottle? So R40 a pop... Think Stans works out at about R20 per fill but does not seem to last that long. Where you based?

RAD - What is the cost of this "OKO" you speaks of? My Stans keep making wet patches on the outside of my tyre, getting over it really quickly..

This could get interesting, Johan go easy on the youngster.. Rather sign him up for a workshop, esp seeing that he is part time in a bike shop. Allegedly.

I started MTBing a couple of years ago and I though we were training really well. Looking back at it now I realize what a joke it was, a 45min ride in the week was a "long" session then. However it worked for us then. Now if I dont get in 2 hours on a weeksday I feel like I'm wasting an outfit. So my advice is: 1) Listen to your body 2) Dont get too fixated on a program since it may limit your progress if you're starting from scratch. 3) If your motivation is race results, keep pushing yourself and move the goalposts accordingly. If you're just a fun rider, keep it at that.

The normal procedure is you take the part/frame in to your LBS and then wait for 2 or more weeks. The LBS then sends it up, wait, wait some more, and get the replacement back. They call you and you are on a massive high since the problem is fixed right, then KAPOW, they hit you with a lekker sizable shipping bill. Last time something similar happened I had it sent up to my folks on a lift, my dad went to their offices, got the new one and couriered it down, all happening in a week and cost me a fraction of the original costs.

Correct Matchstix.. Spoke to the CPT agent yesterday and he informed me that there is just one guy going all the claims. I assume this has to do with consistency and what not. I also think they send the damaged parts back to the US if replaced. So no-one heading up to Jozi this weekend?

Thanks Azonic, is an alloy frame, crack on the BB weld though. Heard that welds in that zone will generally not last. But if all is lost, then people regularly traveling to PE on business, please see my firts post to be on the "standby" list

Hi Hubbers, <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> So my frame cracked (twice in fact) and I need to get my frame up in JHB to start the warranty fight. I anticipate an expense couple of weeks ahead and being a skint student I though I'd try my luck avoiding some of the expenses by trying to arrange a lift. I know many people commute regularly to JHB on business and if anyone could take the frame with them it would really be much appreciated. I can drop the frame of anywhere in CPT and my parents would pick it up in JHB. Would really not be a massive hassle. Please let me know if anyone can help. Thanks

It's very important to get it as Ultra smooth and shiny as possible as it will greatly improve your speed by reducing the laminar boundary layer thickness and delay the onset of turbulent flow over the braking walls, thus reducing drag.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> However most speed gain will result from reduce braking performance. Seriously!!?? Meet you guys by the coat check..

MTBing in Transkei: river crossing just upstream of one of the reported 7 waterfalls dropping into the sea.

Ja, the wonderful word of sports nutrition.. After I also picked up my 5kg's of Maltodextrin of Knersis I got some serious books on the topic just to get a feel for what's the "scientific consensus" and if I'm heading in the general right direction. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The bottom line is you cannot buy performance, and sometimes it gets disgusting and hugely entertaining at the same time seeing people try..

One of these days I'm going to write the book on budget MTBing, being a skint student taking on the Epic I'm building up a portfolio of serious cost saving alternatives. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> My favourite tried-and-tested snack on a ride: Home baked bran muffins. Snow Flake does a brilliant pre-mix, just add an egg, milk and oil and for just over half the cost of a mule bar you can make 2 batches of 12 muffins. Woop Woop!! For those keen to impress their riding buddies with their considerable disposable income, add raisins. A side note on the Mule Bar: They really push the "natural, free trade" angle, but wonder what the carbon footprint is on those puppies coming in from Europe? chickenrun4me2009-08-18 13:28:32

I'd say go easy on the last 3, they are not easy on the wallet in terms of "stocking up"

Just cycle without one till you identify the need to have one (more fluid capacity, packing space etc.), then you'll know what your own personal requirements are and perhaps more importantly you'll appreciate or value it more. I've been in races where guys cycle without one and manage fine, whereas I'd be lost..

Another question: <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> To start with, why do you lube? Do you lube the chain to extend the life of the chain or the drive train? The reason I ask is from the post regarding measuring chain wear, the wear that the rollers experience does not contribute to chain wear, only wear on the inner pins/inner plate at the interface between the said pin and the inner plate. So the question, from the chain wear and lubrication perspective, should be what is the best way to get lube in that interface and keep it there. But then from the drive train wear side you want to lube the external roller - chainring/sprocket interface to prolong the life of the gear profile. But in doing so you pick up dirt and what not and form a grinding paste, and does this not mitigate the benefit of lube in the first place? At least this is my thinking around the topic. So in essence what are the mechanisms for wear that lubricating needs to curb?

So while riding recently I noticed the remnants of my free sample pack knocking about my camelback and I remembered that I completely forgot to keep my end of the bargain and provide some feedback. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> So I used the Knysna 85km race as proving grounds for the handful of brightly coloured capsules, but before I get into it, some background: I'm by no means a settled MTBer with a well established plateau of performance, in fact I'm constantly pushing the limits of my fitness (admittedly starting from a weak base), that with the Transbaviaans looming ever so closer. Furthermore, in MTBing especially, there are so many variables that it's very hard to do a controlled test or comparison, and all this makes it near impossible to be completely 100% objective but I will none the less provide my feedback. I think I did quite well in following the detailed and precise instructions provided with the pack in terms of training tapering and nutrition leading up to the event and I felt quite confident on the day of the race. The climb in the beginning was a lekker warmup and I felt strong up to the king of the mountain point, 20 km or so into the race. From there I thought I'd open the taps a bit and we formed a strong group on the fast sections of Kom se pad and onto Petrus se brand pad after crossing the Uniondale road. As it became more undulating I dropped the group I was with, which I was a bit worried about since there seemed to have been some strong guys there but feeling strong I thought just go for it. That was pretty much the story till the end. I thought I was riding about 5-10% above my normal ability but had legs till the end. Normally I suffer home the last 10km, but in retrospect I could really have put the hammer down at the end since I like to pass out crossing the line. If I could have the day over I'd do the last hour considerably more aggressively. I'm also very prone to cramping, especially when starting too fast. That was my biggest concern while pushing harder than I thought I should, many a race has been spoiled by cramps rather that fatigue. Please to report not even a hint of a cramp, but there are many other factors involved in the equation, but I didn't use cramp block or any similar products. So what can I say for Sport-X? Keeping in mind that this was the best shape I've ever been in at a start line and having learnt from savagely bonking on the 100miler I managed my nutrition better, I was still impressed by how even my performance was throughout the 3h30 that it ended up taking me. But the biggest surprise came on Monday. Sunday I was too hung-over to even look at my bike, but I decided to give Hakerville a crack the next day, fully expecting to spin it out in granny blade due to that flat feeling in my post-race legs. I ended up doing 2 strong laps of the 24km route with some extras here and there. So at the end of the day the recovery is what impressed me the most and I can confidently say the biggest contributor to this was Sport-X. Thanks to Aam for the sample, you'll be hearing from me soon. Now to stock up for Transbaviaans. chickenrun4me2009-07-29 14:17:02

PM sent

Well done, serious respect! Been reading another SA rider's blog, crazy race. Like 4 x 3000m+ climbing days in a row, over just 80km... Long term dream to go do it.

Thanks droo, please could you PM me your email so I can send you some pics, also much faster to communicate via email. Think I might be a bit shy heatsink area wise, but by my guestamate the outside area is bigger than those Midas torch mod 3x CREE XR jobbies.

Not for sale just yet, but: Hi Hubbers,<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I have designed a very basic generic LED housing around a 3 x CREE setup, including a sturdy but simple mounting system. It is ideal for everyone out there doing the DIY light build thing but who are struggling with the housing and esp. the mounting of a housing. At the moment I have complete engineering drawings ready for manufacture and I'm in the process of getting quotes. A question about the design to the pro's: 1) Will a volume of 72 x 22 x 25 mm be sufficient for all driver and other electrical components (buckpuck, resistors and what not. Have never build one myself but from what I've seen it should be OK) EXCLUDING the LED's, lenses, heatsinks etc? Then another question: 2) Are any Hubbers out there in the manufacturing industry who can help in keeping the costs as low as possible. All the components can be easily made on a basic lathe and a milling machine (my design approach has been to keep the manufacturing process as simple as possible), but CNCing might become viable at higher production runs or if someone knows of someone who can pull some strings. Any comments and suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks

You could try drill out the thread and glue a nut in the outer side of the plate and try finding a suitable bolt as the original would obviously be too short, but it is a long shot. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> If you have access to a lathe it would be quite easy to turn a bush that does the same as the above, then you could use the original screw. For R1000 you should find a machine shop willing to do this.

I also have thus gut feel that it is sometimes better to get full blown flu and get it over and done with than sitting in the middle ground between being and not being sick for weeks. I recon hit it on Sat. See you out there.

Where are all the Doctors on this? Oh ja, picketing and proving white people can't dance/toi toi<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> The little bit I know is that it can spread from a light "localized" infection to full blown respitory infection due to heavy exercise. But I guess this is common knowledge..

I've been in this situation so many times as well. Really sucks. You feel groggy in the morning but by the evening you feel ok to ride, then repeat the cycle for 2-3 weeks. But then I read about top guys racing the epic who are "sick" on the first 2 days and then recover to normal performance levels. What gives?