Tieffels

But here is the REAL thing, it does matter what you use to measure since different tools measure different aspects of chain wear. So no, it has nothing to do with tension. That is how to use the tool, any tool, correctly.

I only did my first one this year, but have been a keen follower since day one for whatever that is worth. This year was a REAL MTB race, tough and technical. I know capable roadies who did it and suffered, whereas they would have been fine in previous years. Obviously not being bound by the route, Dr Evil can really string together amazing routes, routes with MTB soul. The route this year really blew me away, bit easier than expected, less climbing, but amazing. I think avoiding potential mud on the garden route also considerably improves your bike's chances of making it.

You have to replace the whole drivetrain, especialy your granny blade in front. That should solve it.

Amazing, got my 705 2 months ago.. Like with the 500 causing massive sales of 305s, watch thehub get flooded with okes flogging of their 705s.. Would not have gone with the 800 though, HTC has put me off touch screens for a long time, but now you'll pick up seconds hand 705s on the cheap.

Cassie, if you end up going PLEASE PLEASE make me a copy as well, or just burn everything to DVD's afterwards and make a handy profit here on thehub.

Guys, thanks for the advice and the effort with the screen shots Shebeen. I'm leaning towards the T4A option, think I must just get the whole shebang in one go and get it over with and hopefully then be prompted to cycle in more remote locations. Know both you guys do serious exploring, any routes along th Injasuti/ Nothern drakensberg region that you have on file? Yes, those 1:50000 maps are lekker oldschool, as used with Jaco on his Lesotho trip in the beginning of the year.. Man, I miss that trip.. Jaco, good to hear you are back on the bike.

The pre-loaded street maps on my unit is VERY basic, not sure if I must do something to unlock it or download it? The CD that came with the unit is only a very basic manual, the rest you have to do over the internet. Got Training center that way, and thought the maps would improve, but not the case. Am I missing something?

I need to purchase maps for my 705 and wondering what the hub experience/recommendation is between these two, or are there other options. I'll be using the maps mainly for MTBing, doing a trip at the end of the year to Drakensberg/Transkei. Thanks

Still in it from the Epic.. But could just be missing CPT, moved up to JHB right after the Epic. And had to take up riding on the road. Eyeing the FC for next year to get me going again...

Think it is a general euro thing.

Now that he's world champ I'm considering doing the Epic again just to listen to him every night. Sure he'll do the race report in his rainbow jearsey..

Anyone looking for a partner?

What is it with all the GT owners "upgrading" to Giants? So GT is actually worse than Giant.. Now there's a thing.

Much much more. And then some. They even have a website.

I stand corrected, they are the buses of the cycling world, but yellow Putco buses, not those fancy Marco Polo jobs mind you..

I've lost count how many Giants, mainly Anthems, I've passed in races, must be over a hundred by now, mostly on downhills nogals. They may be awesome bikes, who knows, but they dont make for fast riders. To me they are the white toyota corolla's of bikes..

find squeak. eliminate squeak Ride

Thanks for the super info, have a lot of homework to do it seems..

Thanks Flowta Ja, the MC-E has 4 LEDs on one primary optic giving you 430lm, but it seems you can get the XP-G in a 3-up arrangement with 3 seperate LEDs mounted on one PCB, http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w417.php , giving you 417 lm. You also get the full range of optics for this configuration. So which is better? And are there other options to consider? I'm corrently thinking about using 2 of either of the above, giving me above 800lm if the math works like that. PS stop using up all the company bandwidth..

Hi DIY Hubbers, At my work we've got Invenor, killer manufacturing facilities and a lekker bos, so I'm trying to get a LED light housing CNC-ed with the long term view of making it available in kit form. I can manage the design and everything, but what is the best LED/s to use at the moment? I'm looking at <1000 lumen for now, but I'm open to suggestions. I've been recommended the Cree XP-G, but what about the MC-E? Or any other options? Also looking at using a buck-puck but battries is still an unknown.. Any suggetsion with motivations would be much appreciated. Thanks

I've used 24" tubes before, very cheap and readily available with presta valves and I think it might even be easier than a 20" tube going on. Use it, don't use it..

My take on the matter is that there is a massive pile of high end frames lying in a ditch somewhere with all the big budget parts stripped and sold on here/gumtree etc. Why take the risk of stealing a bike and selling it complete? Strip the shock and wheels and Kapow, R6000, all in a morning's work. If they are really entrepreneurial, throw in the drive train and brakes for another 1 or R2k.. The only evidence pointing to a stolen bike is the frame, so just get rid of that..

Man, I'm a MTBer and recently had to get a road bike for winter training (in theory), and I have to agree for shizzle, those STI's jobbies are TIGHT dog!! They shift, they brake, they support your weight....

From the Sani2C website: ENTRY PROCEDURE • Entries for both the Adventure and Race open to all 2010 competitors on 2nd August 2010. • Entries will open to the waiting list on 16th August should the 650 team limit have not been filled by 2010 competitors. • Entries open to the general public on 30 August should the 650 team limit have not been filled by the above. QUESTION: So if you count yourself among the "general public" I assume the is not a snowball's hope in hell of getting in?

I have never broken anything coming off my bike, however 95% of the times when I have seen my backside it has been on very well known routes that where WELL within my capabilities. Coming short has always been my fault and I have no one else to blame but myself. I ride considerably more carefully on unknown routes and stay within a comfortable margin of safety. I can also promise you that there were people who did your race with less capabilities than you and your wife and with less information and they did not fall. What is the difference? I really do have a lot of sympathy for your position, but I see it as part and parcel of the sport (to which we agree) and I have my doubts about the type of information that would have remedied the situation. Yes, I think route profiles or at the very least total climbing would be awesome for every race, but I just cannot see grading routes as a practical measure. I've done races thinking the route was pretty easy and then there are others claiming it was impossible and calling for the blood of the organisers. There will ALWAYS be people feeling cheated by the grading or description. Having done mental loops about the whole issue I still maintain that you should ride within your fitness in terms of the distance as fatigue is the biggest contributor to crashes, and secondly to ride within your capabilities on the technical stuff. I do not think that it is fair to compare MTB to canoeing since as you see groot k@k coming in a canoe you cannot just stop and walk it.. And I agree 100% with you that you should not encourage your wife to grow a pair, but somehow to encourage her to gain confidence on the technical stuff. But that is another topic all together..