camelman

They even had a "Geseënde Kersfees" in there for us Saffas. Big up to Rocky Mountain for doing that

Jip, not a great race in my opinion. Way too much sand and not enough of the "danger" stuff as mentioned before. I suspect the guys that liked the sand either did 30km, weigh 60kg or less or are into leather, latex and whips. I will just store it in memory as a hard training ride and school fees paid. On the plus side the race was really well organised, from the registration to the finish. Big thanks to all the folks manning the water tables in the remote locations and being in good spirit all the time. Always ready to have a laugh and share a joke. May I suggest the race move to Bredasdorp or Napier for next year. If there are issues with the number of entrants riding in certain areas, then just limit the field size. Much more "danger" in that area if memory serves me correct. I suspect that the area around Struisbaai and L'Aghulas does not lend itself to really nice tracks because of the sand. Just my 2 cents worth.

My new Assos bib Shorts - S7

Firstly you get 2 different tunes on your climb mode. A "MEDIUM" for trail bikes with longer suspension and a "FIRM" for XC. The "firm" tune should be very close to lockout and have very little bob. On the side of the CTD knob there should be sticker denoting the Climb tune. There should be a definite difference between T mode and D mode. Some forks also have a trail adjust mode(black ring outside the lever). I suspect that on the one limit of the trail adjust mode it would be very close to the Descend mode. If you have this trail adjust, turn it all the way in the opposite direction and feel if it is still the same. The trail adjust ONLY WORKS IN TRAIL MODE. The Trail mode should also give you full travel when working the fork hard. It just makes the spring feel "harder" or firmer, that translates in your arms getting more tired. What I have found is that small differences in air pressure make a huge difference on all three modes, so play around with that as well. From where all three modes feel the same to where the Climb mode is almost a lockout. The 2013 CTD was also a POS. The 2014 tune is a bit better. A proper service of the fork might also help to improve the performance. But the best advice I can give you is to buy a Rockshox. I have a 130mm TALAS which is on the market right now to be replaced by a Rockshox Pike.

Ja think so. It is a 2013 model. But I find that riding with a full backpack in Alps (110kg then) makes the front wheel wander in the really rocky sections. Going to upgrade to a Pike(35mm), but need to sell my repaired TALAS first(new crown and stanchions, full rebuild).

The Trail type is great for lots of technical riding. Basically trail and all mountain where your pedals get knocked against rocks and roots and so forth. It also affords you the luxury of a semi platform when you cannot get your foot into the cleat when facing a serious downhill. This all comes with a weight penalty. If you ride XC, go with the M520 or the XT-race pedal(780?). Saves a lot of weight in the end and function wise it is exactly the same.

If the inside of the rim/bead is rough from the repair job, take some sand paper or a very fine file and try to smooth it out. Tires can mould around a ding or a dent but when the inside is rough the tire cannot seat properly and the air comes out. Even if the sealant where to seal it now, it might blow out later if its not smooth Otherwise a new rim

Sorry. G-man. How is that fork on that Stumpy? You have the 32mm right? Mine feels like a pool noodle and want to get rid of it, or maybe its because I am a vetgat. Just wanted another opinion.

Had the same one and I personally never quite gelled with it. I am 1.9m tall and rode the XL. Had to put on a long stem and it always felt like there was too much weight on the front wheel. So make sure the frame fits you. Don't extend that cockpit out too far(I rode a 120-130mm stem) Otherwise, like was said here before. Get those bushes and bearings serviced on the rear triangle. It made a huge difference on mine, and you can do it yourself too, if you are so mechanically inclined. And just remember, although its a dual suspension bike, its not a bike made for comfort, but for racing. Climbs like few others, but a bit twitchy on the descent. Sold mine for around 20k last year. Was heartbreaking, because I loved the look of it, but seldom rode it.

I had a long cage X0 (std) on my XTC and was constantly dropping the chain on the rough stuff as well as the chain hammering my poor chainstay. Fitted an X0 Type 2 and boy what a difference. The shifting action is slightly more difficult than than the clutchless model, but all worth the extra effort. If you ride a lot of rough stuff I would suggest a Type 2. They are double the price, but worth it.

Never. A forum like this gives all us wimps the opportunity to be a hero for a few minutes while we type on our keyboard. From now on I want to change my name, I want to be called "Keyboard America".

Jeez, there is a lot of internet tough guys here. You guys should enter for a role in the "Expendables 3". No way will Statham or Stallone get a role before you.

To a deep dark place where few people dare to go. But worth the view of the setting sun

Yip, no need to deflate, unless the size of the box is the problem. Depending on who or what you fly with, the inside of the planes are kept at a constant "altitude" of between 2000-3000m. So no need at all. And plenty of riding at a similar altitude can be done at the same pressure in your shock. I deflate my tires slightly, but that is only to be able to fit them in the Evoc bag. If you are running tubeless you don't want to end up with a mess on the other side with sealant on everything, so keep them above 1 bar at least to keep them seated Just remember to squeeze your shampoo bottle before .

Just tighten the quick release so it is quite stiff, you wont squeeze the hub(as was said earlier). If you still have play then the hubs need tightening and then you are opening another can of worms. When it is really cold I struggle to open the QR, that tight. Especially on a 29r. More lateral force, apparently.

I test rode the top end FS01 and what a beautiful bike. Suspension design is the best I have ridden. Zero bob in the trail setting. And when you get out the saddle and hammer hard it feels like there is absolutely no wasted energy. Just a pity the Large frame felt a bit cramped. You cant go wrong with the BMC, if it fits you. It will also double up as a super trail bike. No need for more travel on that bike. It will do what most 120mm bikes cannot do

For a hardtail pick Between Scott and Specialized. I would pick Giant. Best value for money out there. And you can get those XTC 29r advanced's for super cheap because Giant is has gone all "650B". I have one and except for the 10kg wheelset it is an awesome bike. I have put my carbon frame down on the rocks, hard. Only a bit of the clearcoat came off. They are built super strong, maybe not the lightest, but surely one of the strongest. I even considered putting a dropper post on mine to go ride some serious trails and jumps, but think I might break it eventually. For a dual suspension you are not going to get a great deal for that money. Better stick to the HT. Specialized has the better suspension design between the two, but you pay for that. The Scott one is super simple, but you have to work that twin lock like there is no tomorrow.

Jis, you would think that stuff from Amazon would go through no problems. Maybe the price looked to good to be true and they thought it was counterfeit. And that price really looks to good to be true.

Anything else in there that they might not have liked? I heard the Swiss customs here by us are a bit of a b***h. If the price on the invoice looks dodgy or it looks counterfeit they confiscate it. Might be the same there by you.

XTR pedals for the missus S-track Race pedals for me Ritchey carbon Trail X2 handlebar (710mm) for my new Epic. She gets my 700 Carbon one from the Epic after a lot of hubber advice

Clothing is one of the every day items that has the highest import duties. It's the government's way of trying to make "local lekker"

Sorry, was referring to the Fuji guy. I would not like to get into the ring with Specialized for all the publicity in the world either. Would rather change my name to "Cafe Ruby" and cower in the corner.

I have the same setup on my XC bike as you described. I have "sealed up" my system using that method. However it seems like the liner you get with the "link" ones is a one piece liner that could run all the way through to you derailleurs. This ensures that the cable is in a one piece sealed liner. The housing then gets added to it.

Look Quartz and S-track I loved these pedals in there 2nd gen as the spring was tighter. Super mud/snow clearance as they have the the spring cage If you want float then these are your pedals Bearings don't last forever A small problem for me was that the front clip is the one housing the spring whereas shimano sits at the back. When you hammer out the saddle with a lot of weight over the front, you can feel the spring giving, which means your foot might come out. On shimano its no problem as the front clip is the stationary one Also consider Time. Lots of very good reviews and apparently better bearing life No tension adjust on these pedals. They will be either right or wrong for you. Quite expensive compared to shimano I just ordered a set of S-Tracks for the Epic next year. Will ride my Quartz till the are destroyed while training.

I think this "ou" is just fishing for some publicity. Here is a link to the Canadian intellectual property office: http://www.cipo.ic.gc.ca/app/opic-cipo/trdmrks/srch/vwTrdmrk.do?lang=eng&status=OK&fileNumber=1331172&extension=0&startingDocumentIndexOnPage=1 Make of it what you want, but I don't see anything from ASI on that page. Don't think the show is over. The gloves are only coming out now....