Morwa

Tumbleweed, after 2 hr's it feels like I'm sitting on a brick, and my legs feel numb.

Ok I know a saddle is very personal and person specific choice, but I need some help please. I'm a not a skinny Andy Schleck build (rather 1.90m and 95kg). I'm currently riding a Gobi XM and the thing is killing me. I'm currently looking at: 1. Selle Italia SLR Gel Flow; 2. Selle Italia Max Flite Gel Flow; 3. Selle Italia Yutaak Gel Flow. Any experiences or recommendations with the above; or any alternative recommendations.

A quick question. I got myself a carbon riser bar. Is it necessary to use carbon paste or the Richey Liquid Torque to fasten the bar at the stem, and the other components to the bar? I do have a torque wrench and will fasten the components to the specified torque.

Just a quick one. Get yourself a copy of the UK's, What Mountain Bike Magazine, May 2011 edition at CNA. There is a review of 19, 100-150mm travel forks. And......the 100mm Best in class winner is - Fox F100 FiT RLC QR15! And the over all winner - Fox R120 FiT RLC QR15! Beating a Lefty in the review as well. Lefty's are awesome but not at the current price, way over priced!

I've got a 2011 Fox F29 Terralogic on my 29er. Very sweet! Fox all the way!

I've got the same thing. Knee pain on right leg only, but at the back where knee bends.

TX for the reply Splat! Is there any benefit in adding more sealant? I watched a Super Cycling program the other day on the "Grape Escape" and Burry complaining about not having enough sealant in his wheels. What will happen if I use 150ml sealant in a wheel?

A quick question for the guru's. I'm converting my current wheels (29er) to tubeless. How much sealant do you require for a 29er compared to a 26er tyre? The Zero Flats bottle specify 60ml per wheel....I assume it's for a 26er. Next question....is it possible to put to much sealant in a wheel, and what will happen?

Dirt-rider, I only commented on the article. Being a newby myself, I found the article fascinating. I’m currently running a full SLX setup. My personal opinion is that it’s the best value/performance setup. Need to loose the xtra 10kg on my Camel Front first (....luckily I have a Camel Bak as a counter balance) before a XTR/XX or X0 setup will improve on my race times.

simon22, Try and get a copy of the March 2011 What Mountain Bike Magazine (UK). There was a detailed review of disk brake setups. Winner was Shimano Deore M595! This was based on value/price & performance criteria.

TX for the comment Weight Weenie. Will convert them this weekend.

OK....another tubeless conversion thread, but I’m new to this and need help. Will I be able to use my current Maxxis Aspen tyres (26”) with a tubeless conversion kit, or has anybody else used these Aspens successfully in a tubeless setup? I don’t want to buy UST/LUST tyres yet....till these Aspens’s are well used.

TX for all the replies and comments. Just spoke to my LBS and checked CWC....BBB is out of stock from the suppliers. My LBS recommended the RavX one. Obviously...as second choice after the Park Tool one that is in stock...but very expensive. Someone used the RavX one.....or should I wait (indefinitely?) for the BBB to get back in stock?

I've decided to buy a torque wrench with all the fiddling going around in my garage. So….now is the question which one to get? I’ve seen CWC advertising the BBB one for around R600 (handle with bits), and my LBS has got a Park Tool one for R1000 (just handle). Any experiences with these ones, or which one should I order (and where)? Cheers!

TX for all the comments and feedback. I got my new fork today, and will fit it to a new 29er frame as well, so unfortunately I can’t use my "old" 26er setup as a reference. One thing I've picked up reading trough the Fox manual is that it specify ...."not to use more than 30mm of height of steerer stem spacers under the steerer stem, as this condition can cause the steerer tube to fail prematurely, resulting in SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH". - Quoting from the Fox manual! So bottom line is to use < 30mm below the stem and maybe leave 5 mm above the stem.

I'm going to buy a new fork for my hardtail. What is the typical length of the steerer tube above the top part of the headset. I know it's personal preference and the length will also determine how high the stem and handlebar will be. I don't want to cut the thing to short. Is there some golden rule, that will suit the majority of the hubbers?

Andre, where did you get the Easton EA90 wheelset, and what did you pay for it? Also what Reba fork are you using?

Jipee....so now we have 30 gears! Any benefit as to 27 of them?

TX SwissVan & patham for the feedback. The current 710mm setup looks like an Afrikander Bull on my bike. Will cut it tonight. I see most riser bars are 680mm?

I need some help please. I just got myself a KCNC Darkside 1" riser bar. The bar is 710 mm long. Do you normally cut handlebars shorter? What is the ideal length, and what tools to use?

I'm also riding with the KCNC SC Bone flat bars. My only experience is don't tighten the bar-ends to much. Bend the bars where the bar-ends tightens. So....very very soft. And there's no bar end plugs to fit the SC Bone bars. Tried Hope Grip Doctors....but hole is to big.

What is the difference between a "top-swing" and "conventional" front derailleurs? Which one should I get?

So...I want to adjust the stem....but no Torque wrench. See my last post. What should I do?

Thanks for all the info. I've also downloaded the instructions for the stem from the Thompson website. There it was! All my answers. It wil help to read the instructions before installing. I've read that a Torque Wrench is required for assembly. The nuts need to be 48 in-lbs (5.5 N-m), and 35 in-lbs (N-m). Is this really needed? Is so what is the price of a Torque Wrench? Where do I get one?

That simple? Thanks a million. I'll try that tonight. What is the optimum gap beween the inside of the fork and the stem, for the top cap to pull everything tight? or let me rephrase...how much of the fork should be below the stem top?