Rouxenator

First frame that cracked after a year was a 2012 GT Karakoram. Current frame that cracked is a 2013 Zaskar Le 9R Pro. Actually very tempted to just buy a pick'n'pay special as backup now.

Not sure how it happened, but I have yet another cracked frame. Its only been 6 months since I got the frame after my previous frame cracked (after a year). The biks shop says it is on a welding spot so there is no doubt that it will be replaced under warranty but now I'm left without a MTB for about two weeks :-(

Exactly what I am getting. Apparently the Epicon would not fit my bike or wheel or something.

Told the LBS to go ahead and get an Epicon, the price is just shy of R3k according to their quote. They are checking to see if they can fix the rear brake else I'll get Deore seeing as I managed to get the rest of the bike on Deore. I'm quite happy with Suntour, got more than 6000km from my XCM.

According to the specs of the frame : Tapered 1 1/8" to 1 1/2" HT It is supposed to come with : "Fox Racing Shox 32 Float 29 CTD Remote, 100mm Travel, 15x100mm Thru Axle, w/ Rebound Adjust, FIT Damper, Remote Lockout, & Tapered Alloy Steerer"

I really have no clue. Currently I have on of these : http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/dstore/products/Suspension+Fork/3082/XCR/SF11-XCR+MLO+29%27.html

My bike is a Zaskar Pro LE 9R... well the frame is. Most of the components were from my old Karakoram and I am gradually replacing them. The next two "old components" on my list are the brakes, Tektro's that have done 8000+ km and the shock, Suntour XCR that I picked up second hand. While the front brake is still working like new the rear brake loses pressure about 50km after being bled. The brake pads were replaced and are still in excellent condition. I am therefor thinking maybe the piston is leaking since I do not see signs of leakage anywhere else. The shock is very aqua-phobic and locks up with the slightest sight of water. Therefore I have decided to take the plunge and replace the brakes and shock. My budget is tight, I would say R3k, any recommendations as to what parts I should consider?

Thanks Kiwi! Got the tubes

50/50 tussen teerpad en trail. Best of both

Pictures (Part 3) : http://thumbnails106.imagebam.com/21914/9bb034219130498.jpg http://thumbnails101.imagebam.com/21914/aa2968219130522.jpg http://thumbnails104.imagebam.com/21914/b8fbd5219130541.jpg http://thumbnails106.imagebam.com/21914/29cce5219130557.jpg http://thumbnails103.imagebam.com/21914/7fad6b219130561.jpg http://thumbnails102.imagebam.com/21914/ed8e25219130566.jpg http://thumbnails102.imagebam.com/21914/d472da219130582.jpg http://thumbnails103.imagebam.com/21914/bdc782219130602.jpg Now that is what I call the ultimate commute route

Pictures (Part 2): http://thumbnails104.imagebam.com/21914/db9ab5219130186.jpg http://thumbnails106.imagebam.com/21914/43be4b219130208.jpg http://thumbnails106.imagebam.com/21914/601383219130236.jpg http://thumbnails106.imagebam.com/21914/31ebdf219130246.jpg http://thumbnails105.imagebam.com/21914/87225a219130270.jpg http://thumbnails103.imagebam.com/21914/0f1f2d219130330.jpg http://thumbnails106.imagebam.com/21914/376e40219130371.jpg http://thumbnails101.imagebam.com/21914/a35d40219130417.jpg http://thumbnails101.imagebam.com/21914/d89929219130443.jpg http://thumbnails101.imagebam.com/21914/200a74219130470.jpg

OK, took some pics on the way home yesterday. I also included the route and profile because this is not a fast and flat commute and doing it with a SS will be suicide. Route&Profile : http://thumbnails101.imagebam.com/21914/cdc3a6219131429.jpg Pictures (Part 1) : http://thumbnails105.imagebam.com/21913/148136219129938.jpg http://thumbnails102.imagebam.com/21913/15eb4e219129965.jpg http://thumbnails105.imagebam.com/21913/75dc82219129986.jpg http://thumbnails102.imagebam.com/21913/ee9fa9219129988.jpg http://thumbnails105.imagebam.com/21914/c14ed1219130006.jpg http://thumbnails101.imagebam.com/21914/1b4fab219130034.jpg http://thumbnails104.imagebam.com/21914/38da87219130073.jpg http://thumbnails101.imagebam.com/21914/005a4e219130090.jpg http://thumbnails104.imagebam.com/21914/d3716f219130121.jpg

Dammit! That looks sweet. I'll post pics from my commute home tonight.

For me the best part is going home... MTB style. While I can get home in 8km I prefer taking the long way home, 22km in total and it starts off with Stellenbosch Mountain. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo140/rouxenator/Random/home.jpg So I was wondering what highlights other commuters have in their daily routine?

Presta is fine for road bikes where the valve hole needs to be small in order to avoid weakening the rim. But all MTB rims have a hole big enough for schrader valve tubes and they are more robust than the dinky presta valves. About 26"... I think I still have my old bike somewhere. But why downgrade?

Judging by the amount of tubes I have given away to tubeless riders in despair this year I don't think so...

I prefer using Slime Tire Sealant that I put into the tubes myself. Naturally you can only do that with schrader valve tubes but no one seems to stock them any more? Why is that?

MTB for sure. I use the same MTB that I ride trails with. Clocked about 5000KM in a year and its still going strong. Knobby tyres means you are less likely to get a puncture.

I actually like the n00b look. Most of my MTB rides I do with normal tekkies, I have a massive saddle bag that hold two 29r tubes, a multi-tool, tyre levers, cable ties and chain breaks. I have never (touch wood) used a tube before but I have given away 5+ to tubeless riders that ran into some "tubeless trouble". Apart from my oversized saddle bag I have a topbar bag that carries car keys, phone (used for Sports Tracker) and some Slim Slabs. I have two bottle cages that hold 750ml bottles so there is no need for a Camelbak. I also do not believe in cycling shirts - they are useless and just helps you to loose a lot of stuff and feels uncomfortable on your back. Mini-pump that does both Presta and Shrader valves is a must on my bike. What really makes the n00b look fun is when you outride someone that looks like a pro, or when you stop to help someone that does not ride with any of the bare essential spares.

Nice, no way you will turn those into slicks anytime soon.

Never had a puncture with them, but its only been a month and a bit since I got them so there has been little chance for them to get punctured. You do get what you pay for and at the price I would not call them bad.

My bike came with Maxxis Aspens and they lasted pretty well for the first 4000km. Had a Crossmark at the rear for a while but it did not last. So the day before Karoo2Coast I decided that I need a fresh set of tyres and to my amazement the cheapest ones available were R95 each! Brilliant deal so I bought 4 of them, two of which I fitted on the bike and off I went to Uniondale. The Good : They are really cheap. Grip is very good on gravel. The Bad : They don't last very long. Not as grippy in the mud. After 500km this is what they now look like. I am a bit tail happy which is why the rear looks like a slick :-) Verdict : If you need knobby tyres on a budget these will do... for a while.

Yeah, I'm also looking for the results, had a pretty nice time out there and managed to finish in just under 3 hours. http://thumbnails103.imagebam.com/21789/9b97bd217889587.jpg http://www.sports-tr...p441kj0jr2khest. Results : http://www.stbb.co.za/uploads/STBB_2Keepabreast_MTB_Challenge_results2012.pdf

I should perhaps add that I am never in the front of my group, especially at the start. As my body warms up and starts burning fat I gain some speed and pace. Helps to finish strong I guess.

The question should perhaps be what advantage do you get for cleats on non endurance rides. Personally I find then great for climbing since you can also pull with your legs, but on a technical track I am better off with my old Nikes. They are also not affected by pushing through thick mud.