Scoe

One should always ask exactly what the features of a device are, or look them up - because most sales people haven't the foggiest clue... I think that their package is misleading, but then many many packages claim things that are true in one context but not another. ie 'import YOUR programs' may imply that you can create them, but it doesn't say it specifically. Ask for the refund, and take a lesson from it, I rate.

It's more than likely just a truing issue... Take it in and let them do it... Most shops charge very little for this. True it yourself if you know what you're doing, but be careful not to just tighten all the spokes - this can lead to overtightened spokes breaking andf could otherwise make the 'wobble' worse...

The front brake caliper isn't over the disc properly

No valves out of the tyres? or are they just well placed behind the stays/fork?

Done this before, you're luck if you've found tension without a tension seeker! Take your cluster apart, use that 15 cog, and some PVC piping, cut a length for either side of it. Use the last, smallest cog that usually fits on the end of the cluster to lock it on. You can't really use just the lock ring - they work together. You'll need a chain whip and a lockring remover!

Everyone who loves beer should give imported Brewers & Union a try.... Unfortunately it's very hard to get hold of... Only a few bars and restaurants in CT and, as far as I know, no bottle stores stock it. Also Vovo Telo Pizzeria in PE

What about shimano fd on campy shifters?

Dude, no question in it... Head to clearwater trails in Port Edward - the best Mtbing on the south coast - hands down. Jan, the owner, is a rad guy and a great rider.

I doubt that it's interference cuz I'm an mtber so I'm not normally too near other people... I know my heart was racing, like 200bpm, maybe, but that just seemed extreme. I think it was just some arb malfunction... Bumpy mtb ride

I'm 19 and on no less than 4 occasions, on different race days I've hit +218 bpm on my monitor... I know it's not the norm, but is this plausible or may there be a problem with the HR or maybe me? My resting is around 45bpm on the HR. I often average about 185bpm on the shorter XC races (+-2hrs)

There's an idea, capri! And always just after corners - far enough for a runner to stop or avoid it, but not give enough time to a biker

No man, get red!

Generally the crank isn't much of a problem... but if the chain is really stretched it may be... Just change the chain and casette!

I guess that if we or motorbike riders call to be (and are legally) considered as a 'vehicle' then it is the wrong thing to do, and i'd think, illegal... hmmmm... It does sort of defeat the point of riding a motorbike though!

Hey guys. I was given an old, yellow steel bike. It's called a ZINI... Now I'm young and have zero experience with retro stuff, but the slot drop outs make it a great candidate to be a SS. I took all the old shimano 600 and Corsa parts off and have donated what's usable, except the Corsa brake levers which I'm keeping. Now, is there anything in particular I should know?? Is my fame anything special - I see it doesn't say anything about Columbus or any other special tubing on it... And the brand? Any pedigree? Many thanks

It's also about half a kg lighter!!

obike is clearing stuff at the moment... they don't actually sell you the bike, you order it and get it form a LBS that stocks obike stuff... The zaskar and otero are totally different bikes.... The zascar will be over 3kgs heavier than the zaskar, and the zaskar will have far superior components. This is because the otero is a dual sus and the zaskar is a hard tail... Think about exactly what you want and then decide. But at that price, there are far more (and possibly better) bikes!

is this saying that Shimano Deore (budget XC) is stronger in all pulling force than Avid Code (high performance DH)??? And also all the more expensive shimano XC sets (they seem to get weaker from Deore to XTR!!) WHAAAT?

Quite debatable, in fact, very debatable... - Mavic Crossmax SLR - Very light and stiff, BLING, but Pricey and questionable hub reliability. - American Classic MTB 26 - Very light and cheap, but quite flexy and easy to break. - Shimano XTR - Reliable and strong, pricing is OK, but not as light as the others. - ZTR Olympic on AC (or ZTR or DT Swiss) hubs with DT Swiss Revolution/Champion spokes - great combo - light and strong, very customizable, but expensive and can be hard to get hold of - ZTR Alpine on AC (etc) with DT spokes - SUPER light (ask weight weenie), very bling and customizable but maybe a little flexy and possibly not so tough also hard to get hold of and very expensive. -Xtralite Wheels - Order them from overseas (Italy?) Very very super light, but don't know much about them...

isn't it whyte bro's? or am i on the wrong track?... the guys that take marin designs and improve tham?? (or used to)

fair enough - it can be pricey... but worth it. Also, for a cheap pair of shoes and some 2nd hand pedals you could get away with R500-R600... the thing is, stickier soles won't give you any pulling power upwards, which is very helpful in climbing

I'm in agreement with Squier! I'm wrong too, I know... Try them, you'll be surprised at the control they give you.

wow, that is damn hot! XTR Shadow Carbon RD and you've got yourself a close to perfect ride!

Rock... Hahahahaha :lol: :lol: :lol:

what's that rubbery looking thing between the fork crown and arch?