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parabola

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Everything posted by parabola

  1. Your tyre may need to be trued, I've got the same problem at the moment. LBS can sort it out, might be a good idea to get them to true the wheel while you are at it. A little bit of sideways movement is normal. They can true it without the frame.
  2. It is actually more of a road saddle IMO, would suit it fine. I would say it compares well to a fizik tundra. It is the planet-x superlight.
  3. Tried many different seats at many different prices, and the planet-x is more comfy than them all! Its a firmer seat, quite narrow, nice and light, so perfect for XC. Combined with a good set of shorts it really shines.
  4. http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e269/parabola85/DSCF1630.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e269/parabola85/DSCF1625.jpg
  5. Great pics! This one is my favourite!
  6. No need, this is a complete joke. If I understand their report correctly, they applied a static load to the crank arm vertically downwards, and measured the corresponding output force on the other crank, I would assume at right angles to the output crank arm. These figures are meaningless, as even if the output force was "increased by 30%" on paper, this means nothing as you are merely shifting the dead-spot to an earlier point. The virtual lever arm remains the same.
  7. Must be hydraulic on that bike. Any idea on the specific type of brakes? Will need more info to help. They all work slightly differently. There are two different adjustments, the 'reach' and 'bite point'. The reach is the distance from the lever to the bar, while the 'bite' is the distance that the lever must move for the pads to make contact. On some brakes, the 'bite point' is only adjustable by adding or removing brake fluid, others have an adjustable screw/knob etc for this. The lever 'reach' can be adjusted usually by a setscrew somewhere on the lever.
  8. Road or MTB? Hydraulic or cable disc-brakes?
  9. Wow, what an arse. It is very irresponsible to put others in an a possible accident situation. Not only will he come off second best should something go wrong, but you as the driver will have to live with the guilt, which in this case you clearly would not deserve. I have a similar issue with cyclists riding Rhodes drive, as there is not even a hint of a shoulder for them to ride, and the road is hardly wide enough for two cars. Passing a cyclist becomes impossible in the morning as the road is a triple line for most of the way, and is often busy. The road is often used by large trucks which are too slow to drive on the freeway. MTB'ers are mostly harmless, as they usually can ride on the gravel well out of the way. Its just not a safe road to ride on a bike - period. As more of an MTBer I avoid tar like the plague, I would much prefer to be out in the bush with nothing but rocks to negotiate! But after seeing the careless way some cyclists ride, I really do sympathise with motorists.
  10. I usually just grab the rim and try to move it side to side, you can feel when its loose. I actually just dropped my bike off at the shop today to fix the same problem, as I don't have one of those flat spanners to lock the nut vas. The nut kept coming loose and I ended up adjusting it all the time. Its one of those things that a bike mechanic can do in his sleep but it takes hours for the rest of us parabola2010-03-23 06:57:37
  11. You need to loosen it up so you have a bit of play on the axle. When you tighten up the QR the play is taken up. Its a bit of trial and error involved, might take a few attempts. Very important to get it right or your hubs will wear more quickly.
  12. Word of warning about conti mountain kings - they wear out pretty quickly on tar. I've probably only got about 1000km on mine and the rear is looking pretty worn already, just from making the short bit of tar ride to Tokai from my house. Front still looks good to go for another 1000. They are great tires but not the grippiest in loose/sandy conditions, and very expensive comparatively! My next set I am going with WTB Wolverine 2.2's UST, they are great tires for the dry conditions in the Cape. Nice and voluminous for soaking up bumps on a hardtail. http://www.wtb.com/products/tires/allmountain/wolverine22/parabola2010-03-23 06:31:34
  13. apparently there are some routes there to do, will have to check it out on google earth sometime.
  14. Look, nobody is saying that better equipment will not make any difference to a funrider, however the reality is that the best way an average rider can improve his/her performance is merely by training better on a structured program, more regularly etc. As an MTB rider, better equipment for me usually means tougher, more durable parts, with lightweight being an advantage. More expensive wheels are generally stronger and lighter, however a law of diminishing returns applies here. At the end of the day, the rider limits the performance so much that the equipment becomes more about how good it feels, rather than how much it increases your performance. If you feel good on your bike, you will usually ride better. Also remember that an expensive bike usually costs more to maintain. Bear in mind a pro MTB rider riding a neon-green 90's Nishiki, will still shred a funrider on their 9kg carbon HT with XTR, while wearing a smile on his face. Its not about the bike, but spending what you are comfortable with is fine. Just don't expect monumental performance increases overnight. The only real way to get better is the hard way!
  15. I am running a 22/36 SLX setup and find it to be far too low for racing, but perfect for places like Tokai. Will be swapping it for something more like 28-42 with a 11-34 cassette which should be perfect once I get the legs to cope. I much prefer the twin chainrings over a triple setup. 2x9 is fine and those extra 2 speeds will cost you so much extra it hardly seems worth it unless you are sponsored.
  16. The cassette is almost entirely machined out of a single piece of steel. Now that is impressive! But at around R2700 merely keeping your bike on the trail will cost a fortune.
  17. They announced at the race yesterday that the entry fees only cover something like one-third of what it costs to put each rider on the road.
  18. 4:32 on my MTB with slicks. My first road race, and it was an awesome experience!
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