LBKloppers

I quickly scanned the internet for this. What makes it different?

BTW. This is not my first bad experience with Shimano. Hence my original post. A previous bike did exactly the same. There is history. That time around I was planning and did replace the bike.

Apparently not ;-(

Jip. Straight as a rule.

I am quite capable of servicing all the mechanicals on my bike, but I'd rather ride than fiddle.

Are you suggesting that a clutch service might improve my frustrations?

Yes and no. No budget, but definitely frustrated. The thing is, if my Shimano just shift properly the fuzziness will return. I am not brand bedonnerd, but I do like like my stuff to work properly.

10 or 11 speed Full XT 8100 on a mtb. My gripe.......The inexact tardy shifting. Yes I had everything, and I mean everything, was renewed and setup by the lbs just in case I was a poepol. The other day I got on a old bike my son had with 2010 X9 installed. The crispness of the shifting was such a reminder that we get used by what we have and then we accept it. My XT setup is indexed as good as it can be but there is this 3/4 gear area that never shifts when I like. I have to feather the shift or I have to jump two gears up and drop one to get where I want. In mtb, there might be a time or three where this can cause problems. I don't have the budget to change, but I wish I did. The other side of the coin is that Shimano still is cheap compared to the SRAM product.

I don't like Shimano anymore, but any alternative is very expensive and almost impossible to justify. Can you help me to justify the change?

I will keep it short, but I think some points should be addressed somehow. I just returned from Dublin Ireland. That is a medieval city and there are no 18m roads. Yet, there are dedicated cycling lanes wherever it is possible. In some places, the lanes are just painted, but more often it is a path separated from the main road by a curb. And the Irish complain a lot about the little things, so thinking of riding on the pedestrian side of the path will definitely get somebody grab you by the arm and seriously informing you it is illegal! Therefore, pedestrians and cyclists are catered for as it forms part of their aim to remove many vehicles from the city simply because they like the old design. There is no Argus cycle tour to fund this! Talking about the Argus. Wasn't the Argus tour's original goal to protest the absence of cycling features/infrastructure? After I don't know how many years running this "the biggest timed event in the world" and the council bragging about how much the Argus brings to the Cape's kitty, how much changed other than a couple of lines painted on some roads? When I used to stay in the Cape, I was often frustrated by the lack of provision at the intersections. It is like a cyclist needs to levitate over the intersections until there is a new cycling lane painted on the other side. And on the topic of developing with cycling in mind, when Giel Basson was upgraded and extended it was the ideal opportunity to get a dedicated cycle lane in place. They didn't. If an old medieval city can plan and accommodate bicycles and pedestrians, why not Cape Town?

I am a lefty but I am no boffin.

I heard on the radio from a lawyer who specialises in this kind of thing. You can get prosecuted for calling people names on social media. Anyone sharing the message could be held liable too. Be careful.

Been riding with 5 bolts for ages. The direction of the force through the bolt shafts is much less than the total shearing force possible from braking. ie. other things will go wrong long before you shear five bolts.

It doesn't matter. I rode with both and on a long ride there are no real-world measurable differences. The human body is immensely adaptable and your body overcomes those differences without you realising it. But even if you're right, then so much more reason to address the issues I have, because at the moment, my Fox sucks!

I do service the fork lower frequently. There is nothing wrong with the foam rings. Just dirty. I think you're right about the oil seal wiping off the light oil on the stanchions, but it does initially improve the fork movement while the oil is still fresh and present. I agree with your sentiment about the LBS, but that is part of a much bigger problem in the technical world. It's easter weekend and I am away, but I certainly am going to explore the Air shaft recommendations with too much grease. Finding the Fox tutorials about the Air shaft is not so easy though. Have a great Easter weekend everyone!

This is NOT a RS against FOX issue but it is a rant. I ride a Scott Spark 27,5 plus with a Fox 34 boost fork. It is a lovely ride suiting my kind of riding like a glove, but the Fox Fork the bike came out with has a quirk I absolutely hate. In my endeavours to resolve the matter I have replaced and serviced the forks using the lbs and other times I did it myself. It's a pretty simple task with the available service kits. BUT The fork has a severe sticktion problem. I need to bump the fork really hard on the first time out to overcome the sticktion. The fork will then be quite smooth but as the distance increases while riding the dirt, the dust carried by the tires collects on the stanchions. It appears this dust contributes to the sticktion and it will get worse until I give it a huge bump again. I have tried lubing the stanchions before every ride, but the same thing happens over and over. All the recommended lubes were used when the seals were replaced with new ones and I even short-serviced one set because I got the impression something was very wrong with the fork. It turns out there are several contributing factors and I would like to hear the Hubber's opinions on these. I noticed the stanchions become very clean and dry in a short time even after I started the ride with fresh lube on the stanchions. My bike has a Fox mudguard, but it is more of a show than anything else (South Africa is drier than muddy and these things are mostly designed for a wet, muddy Europe). Most of the dust collects on the front of the stanchions leading me to assume that the Fox mudguard deflects the dust up and the bike then rides into the suspended dust. I measured one of the seals and I found the ID to be 33mm (34mm fork). That is quite a tight fit. 1. Do you think the 1mm smaller diameter is contributing? 2. Do you think I over-service? I once had a bike with an RS Reba that was visibly more lively than the Fox and I hardly ever serviced it. 3. And why in the world can someone in the manufacturing line not design a proper catch-and-deflect dust guard for those who ride in the dry? Surely avoiding dust from collecting on the stanchions will be beneficial. 4. Am I the only one?

I have a KOM coming out of a mining pit in Tanzania. It will stand forever as the mine is now active and the road is not accessible anymore.

Getting older is a bummer. I am in the category where things start to hurt that never did before. My wrists also gave me problems with my stock Scott Spark grips. I found that the diameter was too small for my hands and I solved to issue by wrapping road bike tape over the existing Scott grips. That little increase in diameter made my life on the bike and on my wrists much more bearable.

Do not discount speed. Generally, people do not realise how close the relation between speed and momentum is and momentum converts into force. Just do a simple calculation of momentum at speed if you weigh 60kg and move at 60km/h. Your answer should be 1 metric ton. Now you refer to fatigue and you are right, that sideways whipping will hurt, but what is the likelihood of such an event? The more realistic scenario is when you come down with falling. Have a look at some YT videos of people falling. In most cases, the head goes down fast. Where is the impact going to be? Mostly on the road, pavement, rocks or something standing proud close to the road. Again you may argue that the extra weight will contribute to the velocity, but what about the sudden stopping bit? The thing is, one can argue the whole day but it boils down to the single thing that we want to protect our noggin. Your head contains what makes you who you are. Damage that and it can not be repaired. Damage it enough and it's bye-bye. I think about two things when I buy a helmet. Safety is the no1 priority, but comfort comes a close 2nd otherwise the burden of discomfort becomes an excuse NOT to wear the helmet even on a short trip to the cafe. For the record, I came down in the port of Cape Town with my head on the edge of a railway line. My helmet saved my life that day because without a helmet my noggin would have cracked open like an egg. The physical signs of the broken helmet indicated the rail hit my head diagonally right through the middle. I am not taking a chance with my head, finish en klaar! You go and get a helmet with MIPS as a minimum. As mentioned, this site is indeed a valuable gauge. https://www.helmet.beam.vt.edu/bicycle-helmet-ratings.html#!

He is based in Wildernis, but he arranges the couriers. His work is exceptional and his deliveries better than you would expect. Check him out on the internet https://wheelbuilder.co.za/

What do you mean bigger platform? There is the general sales pitch of a bigger platform using the simple SPD concept, but there are those massive pedals that actually look like no-cleat pedals but are. My comment refers to the SPD concept. It boggles the mind that every time one of the big OEMs mentions one or the other gimmick, most just simply believe it. Big platform, my @ss. Since you've been riding the XT platform, have a close look at the wear patterns on it. The platform size seldom contributes to the contact between the shoe and the pedal. The SPD design locks everything right around the cleat. The rest is cosmetic (excluding weight, bearings and seals).

Dude, just contact Nick.

I get your frustration, but my 2011 Edge500 is still running fine. I use it most for a speed indicator. the rest of the data is collected on my Forerunner 935. Working well thank you.

I am not a 4x4 owner but I've seen the time some of these guys take to re-inflate after they get out of the sandy 4x4 routes. Some of them had the best mini compressors money could buy and it still took forever to re-inflate. AND the noise! The speed and convenience of the onboard 2nd compressor were something to behold. I think most underestimate the volumes of air those aircon compressors can move. Additionally, it's mounted on the engine, activated with a switch and all the driver has to do is connect the hose to the wheel. For home, I've made an adapter to fit on a Sodastream bottle. It's a super duper CO2 bomb. Note, this thing will blow your wheel (if it is a bicycle wheel) to smithereens is it is not controlled. Those bottles are charged to 160Bar. Do not mess around.

I am just curious. What do you use for a 4x4 pump? Years ago I was a guest on a very remote Kalahari game farm and when the hunting was done, we helped with the regular farm work (We've got to pay for the free accommodation😉). Two things I learnt there. 1. A manual sun tracking device for borehole pumps, and 2 an additional air conditioner pump in the cruiser for QUICK inflates in the field. Both worked like a charm.