Aquatic

Dont know about strengh,but they are light..!

I tried it with a pair of mavic (think 317) slx hub build up ,but it was too narrow..and they cant exactly tear or stretch

True about the failures,i saw some nasty side wall incidents,and some non ust work very well..luck i suppose..only problem with the bnt strip is it doesnt work in all rims

True about the failures,i saw some nasty side wall incidents,and some non ust work very well..luck i suppose..only problem with the bnt strip is it doesnt work in all rims

brilliant,i am gona do that or ghetto setup to my rm 5,s once i get my disk setup running..did you use ust or standard tyres?

Correct,as there are no pins on it

The triangle marking has been put there by the manufacturer for alignment,some truvativ cranks have a small line to mark it

They make the infamous hubs with the teeth system,not conventional pawls,and those are highly rated,so the BB should be good stuff

Ha ha,good one..wait a minute,my post got edited! And bushman is another forum member not me! Now for some cappucino. . .

look closely at a chain ring,it is an engineering marvel!each edge of the tooth is milled to help with the upshift down shift.when the edge gets worn,it doesnt guide or accept the chain well fr6 the chainring pins,hence the chain other slips or not shift over at all,wearing the chain,.the wear is not as bad as a worn cassete would wear I think you are making this up as you go along. Quite simply i am not really concerned if you think i am making this up mr johan,however,i would reccomend you read the Bicycling issue April 2008,it explains how chainrings work,the pins,the grooves etc. Then spend a day in a lbs workshop,and observe chainrings and shifting ,cheers!

It all comes down to cadence and heart rate on a trainer,NOT distance or gradient,lot indoor trainer programs focus on intensity and time rather than mileage

look closely at a chain ring,it is an engineering marvel!each edge of the tooth is milled to help with the upshift down shift.when the edge gets worn,it doesnt guide or accept the chain well fr6 the chainring pins,hence the chain other slips or not shift over at all,wearing the chain,.the wear is not as bad as a worn cassete would wear

Depends on the siye of the whole and what make slime,the origanal works the best,the cheapies dry up before u get that puncture,and then psssst!

It does eventually damage it,as your shifting between the chain rings(big/small) becomes compromised and wear occurs

Many people change them on the 'serious service ' period..there is no straight answer,we have to look at mileage,conditions,general maintanance etc. I have seen many mtb and road chainrings being replaced just for the sake of doing it..the best way is to look at the teeth,if they look like blunt shark fins,it may be time to change..when doing so,look at cassete and chain wear as well

See if the birds are flying towards joburg,works every time

Try any big motor bike dealer,and there had a list of "accredited dealers" on there website some time back

they want our bikes?

Thats nice,just a cover up for doping!

Check the mounts,some intefere with the disk mounts,othes clamp on the rear triangle further up

i agree,been there twice,well worth it!

or fulcrum red metal 3,s at least..or mavic crosstrails

its all about aesthetics,and marketing

the metals have the upper hand as you have the 15/20mm option .both are great,for a budget mtb setup