Snidge

Really hope this matches up to the garmin's. August cant come quick enough

Is that the stocking on the chain stay?

the only solution is to train harder and more frequent and not to race harder than your training intensity Im no expert in the matter but if you training at your racing intensity you doing something wrong. That is the fastest way to burn out surely.

So whats the solution to stop cramp then?

Iv got the triple challenge this weekend in KZN ( 20km run, 58Km mtb then a 22Km canoe) and I just know im gonna cramp as I get in the boat. It happens to me all the time in the build up races. I have come up with my own conclusion as why this happens now. After 4 plus hours of using your legs then jumping in the boat to use your shoulders/arms, your lower body starts to "relax" and sort of "recover". Add the splashing of the cold water to the mix and the cramp hits hard. Im thinking about these cramp stop pills but now im confused? Anyone got some sort of useful advice?

USN make cytopower and Cytosport make Cytomax

You work for USN or they sponsor you by any chance?

203! You trying to stop a truck?

Cytomax made by Cytosport. I cramp on everything else. Also works out to about R10 a litre which isn't to bad.

The way I see it, the weaker your legs then use a shorter crank to get more power from the revs. But if you have strong leg power I can see the benefit of using longer cranks. It all depends on how high your cadence is. Im no expert but thats my opinion.

Consider Me - Prime Circle

David Guetta Ft. Akon - Sexy Bitch

Ja surely your age comes into. If you old enough to need a hip replacement then get a FS. If you young enough to still ask your parents for money then get a HT

What would you recommend? Such as what is this slime you talking about

I ride non-tubeless rims with the rim tape which works just fine and is cheaper then the tubless rims. My front tyre is a tubless UST tyre that gives me no problems at all even when you can see the thorn stuck in it. On the back I just have a light weight standard tyre, only issue is that it looses about 50Kpa after 3 hours riding. Not a biggy to me so not worried about it. Oh and I use Joes sealent

Clean with parrafin and a chain cleaner device thing. Oh and what is wrong with Q20 as a lube?

It all depend how serious you want to be. To be competitive involves some spending to get a light bike. Then there is the never ending issue of hard vs soft tail. You start looking for a mildly competitive hard tail at around R13000 and hard tail at R18000 or so. At that price you should get a bike with xt components (second best in Shimano range). Then things like air forks out class a coil fork by a mile.

Im new to this whole cycling thing and need some sort of help.<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> In these dusty times in winter I understand that dust sticks to the cables and somehow gets jammed in the cable casing transforming my 27 speed into a single speed. Now this is where all you "experience" comes into play! What is a good lube at a fair price and how often do the cables need lube? My logic tells me that the lube would just attract more dust, blocking things up sooner. True or not?

Paraffin works well for me, think its cheaper than diesel so maybe try it in your bath. I know it will toughen you up a little.

Ok thanks, thought that would the reason.

(thanks to not being told that one shouldn't use a hand pump on the presta valves, by my LBS Sorry im new to the whole cycling thing and just done the whole tubeless conversion. Can you please explain why you shouldn't use a hand pump?

It belongs in the Kaiser Chiefs training equipment

I have just paid R13000 for a new mtb with full XT components after riding a basic bike with Deore components and I can notice the difference with everything. But I find it hard to believe that a R30000 plus bike will improve my riding. Im coming in around the top 15% of the field in races i do and not to many guys around me has equipment as "basic" as mine. There seems to be some sort of image thing around cycling with the belief that you have to spend big bucks to go fast. What rubbish! Just train more. But I guess everyone has different ideas so if you can afford a expensive bike, go for it. Just hope your results look as "cool" as your bike.

I had the 900 now for about two months, cant complian about the bike to much. But today while out on a ride down some steep single track at speed I hit a log (nothing big and no big impact). This Caused the the back disc to grind quite badly. The axel was still on tightly and hadn't move, everything seems to be straight. I pulled the axel out and just let the rim spin freely on the frame (bike upside down) and the gringing stopped. The problem I see occurs when the frame is pulled back to the rim from the axel. Any advise?