sage

Shocked at the news that South Africa has lost one of its heroes .... and in a road safety issue too Condolences and prayers to his wife and family during this tough time!

Sorted...!

Good advice...many thanks!

Thanks - good inputs... Yes, had some trouble with the calipers leaking...new seals and one new caliper was required (dirt seems to get in everywhere eventually, but that's MTB) None of the rotors were old and below thickness - some were only 2 months old. I've a couple of wheelsets, and all rotors were a mixture of XT, XTR and XT Ice-tech From what I can see above my choices are a) fresh start with new rotors and pads expensive! b - surgical alcohol treatments (such a solvent has no additives) This whole thing has been a bit of a bummer...I've lost a bit of confidence on the bike as I cant trust the brake stopping power...amazing how that slows one up and you go conservative..

Didn't ever think so, but am starting to wonder - constant changes to brake pads later (3rd set now across both my bikes) and I'm finding that roughly 2-3 rides later the pads squeal and lose their braking power. Tried every remedy I've received (light sanding, copper paste, burning in petrol etc) but no way to get the brake pad performance back. Now my thoughts are turning to the discs themselves.. Here's my theory: the cheap plastic spray bottle that over the years has housed my bike degreaser (or the degreaser itself?) has somehow gotten something right into the metal of the rotors themselves...plasticisers coming out? Got a new set of rotors recently, put new pads on and they are fine and holding as expected. Changed the rotors back to use the old 'infected' ones..and bamn, brakes squeal and lose power after 2-3 rides again. Anyone ever had something like this?

That sounds like a pretty good price - in the Spez shop here in Waterfall they were a couple of hundred bucks more.. I bought a pair, but had to return as my feet need something wider ... to be honest, feet shape and size make each brand offering a personal affair. What works great for some, is an agonising pinch for others. Are you not better off at least trying them on somewhere before you buy?

I've been concerned about the safety there after hearing of 'incidents' - glad to hear of regular riders though .... am I being too concerned? Getting the wrong end of the stick when actually it's fine ?

Good to find Hubbers around my area.. http://www.endomondo.com/profile/228268

No, put tubes in and took a spare tube and some instant patches with me just in case. Put the tubeless tyres back on afterwards. Guys at Mavericks in Hillcrest sold me the noname slicks - they worked perfectly, nice and balanced.

Did the Shova with R70 noname slicks on my 26" MTB ... had a blast overtaking those roadies

I would have expected the the two bike shops to have a chat between themselves first .... not just hand the problem back to the customer.

Just checking which Hillcrest you mean - KZN yes?

Halfway mark on Old Main Road

Ah, was just running the back rural roads on the escarpment of the Umgeni valley, pic was taken at the 21km mark - route can be seen here: http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/54371898 There are cattle trails up there that I need to explore more .... maybe someone on the Hub here knows that area in Crestholme even better?

Inanda Dam from Crestholme

Sorry, only had info for the Silverback range in 2009 because that's when a researched and bought one..

Trying better formatting here...table pasted in looking good, but posted looking bad... Frame Geometry Size S M L XL A seat tube Centre/Top 413 445 495 530 B top tube - actual 556 577 591 610 C seat tube angle 73˚ 73˚ 73˚ 73˚ D seat tube C/C - - - - E head tube angle 71˚ 71˚ 71˚ 71˚ F front centre length 624 645 660 680 G head tube length 110 110 120 120 H chainstay length 430 430 430 430

Is this useful perhaps? I copied this down in 2009, but I reckon it didn't change into 2010... Frame Geometry Size S M L XL A seat tube Centre/Top 413 445 495 530 B top tube - actual 556 577 591 610 C seat tube angle 73˚ 73˚ 73˚ 73˚ D seat tube C/C - - - - E head tube angle 71˚ 71˚ 71˚ 71˚ F front centre length 624 645 660 680 G head tube length 110 110 120 120 H chainstay length 430 430 430 430

Hello Hubbers, Unfortunately my lift back to Hillcrest Inanda cancelled - anyone out there who can help perhaps? Happy to contribute, doing the 40km leg, and I live in Hillcrest..

Is it just me, or would it not be better if the TV coverage of a race spent much more time on the course, and the general folks suffering through it than mostly showing the racing up front? Gets boring watching pros doing their thing all the time; I want to see the course and how the general man-in-the-street and weekend warrior is doing so I can consider doing that race. Sure - sponsors need their airtime, but since I'm not watching anymore, it defeats the object right?

Must agree that the new Ice Tech Shimano rotors pack pack more stopping power with the same size rotor...could feel the difference when I swopped my current XT rotors for them.

Great ... (reaches for the Persuader aka hammer)

Hello, Was just wondering if someone more knowledgeable could steer me right - For the rear hub, it's easy enough to just pull the rubber cover off on the opposite side of the cluster to reveal the bearing ... but on the side of the cluster, what should one do? The axle seems really stuck and I can't budge it by hand, so I thought to ask here before I start "persuading" it.. From my Web research, it seems one does have to remove the axle now, but exactly how I need to tap into some Hub experience.. Thanks for inputs.

I guess they didn't want to buy the Mr Price timing chip for R50 ? Or maybe the S and XS cycleshirts squeezed them too much..

Just took mine off ... spanner plus hammer ... as Big H says, one pushes the spanners toward the rear for both of them Good luck