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Found 22 results

  1. I'm looking about the best value brakes that aren't going to break the bank for my sons ride. I upgraded the mechanical ones on this RipRock Plus bike about a year ago with a old set of Formula C1's that I had in the shed. Recently the rear one's lever / cylinder died out and the guys at the Bike Park managed to resurrected it for about a month but now it's just flapping and gone to Jesus. I've been looking for another set of C1's but good ones are like hens teeth which is a shame as the lever is a great size for small hands and you could get them pretty reasonably. So any ideas what is a good replacement? Anyone seen any specials? What have you upgraded with? Or even if you have something in the spare bin that might wrk then give me a shout! Cheers guys.
  2. Having a hard time finding spares for tekra lyra disk brakes (DBP/56 Tektro Lyra Brake Pads) - recommendations?
  3. I'm swapping out my Elixirs for Tech M4's. My thought was that I should be able to keep the rotors and same shim/spacer/adapter layout on the post-mount and that the pad-to-rotor contact points would be roughly the same on the new setup. But with the M4's the calipers are about 0.5cm outward, i,e, not making full contact any more. So what are my options? I can't move the caliper unit closer to the post as it (a) collides with the (Elixir-specific) adapter and is getting rather close to the spokes. Should I: Get a Hope-specific adapter? Get bigger rotors? ...different brakeset? Shot
  4. Competition time This weekend is your last chance to enter the SwissStop July competition with Peak Brands. Win a year's supply of brake pads. Enter at www.peakbrands.co.za/competition
  5. I got new shimano Deore XT 4 pot brakes today. My back rotors is 150mm rotors and I’m not sure what size brake bracket to hold my caliper I need. Is there a specific one I need for my frame? Or are they universal but a bit taller to fit the bigger rotors? If you know anything please let me know. I have a 2019 titan drone elite size XXL. Thanks
  6. I have decided I want to also run a 200mm rotor on the rear of my Enduro bike, I'm currently using Sram Code RSC brakes. When looking at the price of rotors, Shimano and TRP are similar in price however Sram is about 50% more than the aforementioned brands, are the Sram rotors worth the extra cash? Do they perform better/last longer? Alternatively is there another brand I should look at?
  7. My current brake set up on my bike are entry level Shimano BR M447 Calipers and BL 445 Lever. They work perfectly fine but I am not a huge fan of the ergonomics of the brake levers and rather than upgrading the entire set up I am looking to only change the levers. I am considering getting some DEORE BL-M6100 Levers which would be a nice upgrade. Is there any technical reason why I should not do this swap. I know I will be running different calipers than what Shimano recommends but is there a technical reason why I cannot just upgrade the levers? Are the internal diameter of the pistons different or the throw of the calipers? The small amount of research I did suggests that this is not recommended but I cannot think of a reason why it would not work.
  8. Hey everyone im busy building up a pyga slakline and for the time being I am going to be using 2 pot brakes but I want to upgrade my budget is under 5k any ideas?
  9. I recently bought a Scott hardtail MTB from Cyclelab. Whilst I enjoy riding the bike, I feel the brakes are not as good as the Shimano's on my wife's bike. I don't want to buy a new set of brakes (just yet) and am considering upgrading the rotors to either 180mm or 203's. I know I can't just fit these rotors on; I need some sort of adapter for the calliper. A few questions: 1. Would this be a worth while upgrade or should I wait until I upgrade the whole brake set in a few months time (Maybe longer than that) 2. Where can I get the needed adaptors? 3. What's the recommended brake pads these days for trail riding? Thanks all!
  10. Hi there. I need some advice please. I have Shimano XTR brakes which I have bled (flushed front and rear and added new mineral oil) but it still feels spongy. I have new pads at the rear and measured both the rotors at 1.65mm. Left the bike upright for about a day with the screws open on the levers to let any air bubbles out. Topped up with fluid. Also tried inserting the fluid from the bottom and the top, but neither seems to work. Not sure what to do anymore. Can anyone perhaps assist please? TIA
  11. Hi Bikehub family. Hoping you can help me with this question. Recently purchased an older 2001 De Rosa Vega Merak from a hubber here. Wanting to slowly upgrade it. List of decisions: - opt for lighter wheels - carbon WHY or those amazing Campy Shamal HPW 12 Titanium bits that used to come on colnagos from the same era: >> Installed and fitted the Shamals for now - carbon bits much later... - Carbon seatpost >> To Do - Convert current mixed older 105/Tiagra groupset set up for more moodern 105/Ultegra groupset >> To Do - Convert brake calipers from older 105 to Bontrager or WHY Direct mount brake calipers >> To Do. This is where I need your advice. Is it even possible? I mean I want to believe that the fork could be modified as it is aluminium, but... - would that mess up the structural integrity of the fork? - Thinking that direct mount calipers would put the fork and rear seat stays under new pressures but is that okay? - Can I drill into the fork (it is thick enough in surface area)? Seeking your help to understand what I should consider here, Thanks, Chris
  12. So, I have a pair of Fulcrum Racing Zero Nite wheels that I've been riding since December. Fantastic wheels. However, I have had constant issues with noisy brakes. I have replaced the brake pads which had worn down very quickly with the recommended Blue Campagnolo pads. The brake pads squeal like a Vuvuzela as soon as they start to grip. I have cleaned and adjusted them multiple times, but to no avail. Please help!!!
  13. When it comes to braking power and control, we believe in freedom—options. We believe that there should be an absolute best solution for every type of rider and every kind of ride; that there really isn’t a One-Size-Fits-Most when it comes to brakes. That’s the concept that led us to the development of Level, a new brake designed for the needs of modern cross-country and trail riders. Click here to view the article
  14. Shimano is giving road cycling consumers even more advantages over the pro’s with a new milestone in braking technology. The introduction of Shimano’s new 105 grade hydraulic disc brake, combined with a flat mount caliper, brings high performance stopping power to the sportive rider, making for a safer and superior road cycling experience. Click here to view the article
  15. Hey guys. I'm having some problems with my M615 Deore hydraulics. Had the bled recently, and found that the stopping power was next to nothing. Lever would go almost to the bar and nothing would happen. Inspected the calipers and found the pistons to be "sticky". Cleaned and lubed the pistons on the front brake, and it fixed the problem. Much better braking force and the lever bites hard almost instantly. Tried the same with the rear brake, and although it did improve it a little, it did not completely fix the problem. Is there anything else I could try, or should I just keep trying with the aforementioned method? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  16. SRAM recently released the Guide family of brakes that supercedes the Avid range of brakes. SRAM claims its been designed from the ground up to essentially address all the long standing problems that plagued Avid brakes. I recently received the RSC model to find out if SRAM has succeeded. Click here to view the article
  17. I have 2 sets of brakes, but can only keep one set. The XT are nice and easy to service with Mineral oils, the XX are also nice brakes light and work very well, but need to be more carefully with bleeding with DOT5.1. What would be the better set to keep.
  18. Hi Gents, need some help here from the tech guys. Okay, first, I'll admit, I also own a mtb, for those who didn't know. Long story short, I cant get the rear brakes to center. The bike stock comes with 140mm rotors, however when I bought it it had 160mm rotors and the caliper was bolted onto one of those 140->160 thingies. I've taken the calipers completely off, tighten them again but as soon as I do that, the whole bracket underneath the screw moves the caliper against the rotor, with a half a turn back it rectifies itself, however it moves again when I ride. and I have constant friction between pad and rotor. I've given up riding with my 29er for now, and riding my trusty 26er without issues. So please advise what else there is I could do. Thanks, have a great Friday and an absolute brilliant weekend.
  19. Say hello to SRAM Guides. Spotted here on Velovert.com, it looks like SRAM are finally releasing a new brake to their lineup. Or are they ditching the old Elixir lineup altogether? Click here to view the article
  20. Think it's time to upgrade the brakes on my 26er dualie. It's currently got Avid elixir 5's on it and the are suffering the usual Avid issues (play before engaging, pistons binding, probably worn o rings all that jazz). Question is is it worth getting them serviced as the kit is fairly pricey and then there are always some added extras. Chatted to my mechanic and just reckons I take the money and get a new / used set and a different model rather than try to fix it as the pistons can often collapse in the process causing more parts, labour ect. I trust the guy and he's just mechanic, not part of a shop so no hidden agenda. What would you go for? I was thinking SLX and wondering if anyones seen any deals going? If not then want else are hubbers liking?
  21. I am converting a roadie frame into a single speed commuter. I have been been given a Shimano MTB crankset for free. But now I am confused as to which BB to put on the bike. Do I put on a MTB BB and the put the spacers on the frame side? Or do I put on a road BB to fit the frame and then put the spacers on the crank side (outside) of the BB? Have I made a boobie by having to choose a BB? PS: if anyone knows where I can get a set of FREE road brake callipers you would rock a lot!
  22. I've recently brought an secondhand 2011 Giant Anthem that has Avid Elixir CR brakes. Needless to say, I'm not very happy with the performance of the brakes .. besides the fact that they are almost never quiet. Is there something one can do to fix the performance and noise issues ? Does not look like the brake pads needs replacing, but maybe there is a better brake pad that does the job better? My first instinct is to chuck 'em and go XT, but the budget is not looking so great right now. Then again .. I would prefer to leave the tree-hugging (due to bad brakes) to the greenies. What do you recon?
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