pablo Posted April 18, 2011 Share After a race this weekend my front and rear pads of my HOPE TECH X2 brakes needs to be replaced. I found some on buycycle, but it's the sintered version. Hope says that the sintered version is not recommended for dry conditions. On crc i can get sintered or organic. Whats the difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capricorn Posted April 18, 2011 Share avid sintered or hope sintered or whatever, it's all the same until once the pad hits the rotor. I only ever use sintered metal and it works in all conditions. The organics i've heard tend to be a bit sketch in the wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo Posted April 18, 2011 Share ok, so sintered is the way to go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capricorn Posted April 18, 2011 Share I think so. but why exactly did Hope say the brakes are not meant for sintered pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo Posted April 18, 2011 Share this is off buycycles website. Top Features of the Hope Sintered Pair Of Brake Pads •Made by EBC•Longer lasting than standard•Heat up more than standard•Good for winter or wet weather•Not recommended for dry conditions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted April 18, 2011 Share This sounds like a money making thingy. Motorbikes pretty much only use sintered in all conditions. Mud/MX/desert included. Edited April 18, 2011 by TNT1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo Posted April 18, 2011 Share i thought so as well. but i think im gona go to crc for this, pads cost R110 per pair there. Here it costs R260. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drongo Posted April 18, 2011 Share After a race this weekend my front and rear pads of my HOPE TECH X2 brakes needs to be replaced. I found some on buycycle, but it's the sintered version. Hope says that the sintered version is not recommended for dry conditions. On crc i can get sintered or organic. Whats the difference? Sintered heat up quicker. So if u one of them XC lads who sits on the brakes the whole time, you gonna get fade.Organic = 1 ride in wet an muddy and you are in for new pads. You decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo Posted April 18, 2011 Share why would the sintered pads cause the brake to fade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capricorn Posted April 18, 2011 Share it's not the pads, but the friction-induced heat caused from prolonged braking. The heat transfers to the hydraulic fluid (if u have hydraulic brakes) and causes air bubbles to form. Air bubbles are much more compressible than the hydraulic fluid, and causes your brakes to feel 'spongy' that is to say, it will lack proper feedback between pulling on the lever and the expected braking effect... Edited April 18, 2011 by Jarek Wysocki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAAD4 Posted April 18, 2011 Share I replaced my original Hope organics with metallic (sintered) and they are great. They take longer to bed in, can squeak when they are wet, but they work in all conditions. I've just come down the mountain at Mankele and they were strong in stopping, when I needed them to. I will also be putting sintered pads in my Mini Mono's on my 29er when the current pads are worn out. Check out the orignal Hope pads as they are not much more than the generics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drongo Posted April 18, 2011 Share why would the sintered pads cause the brake to fade? Heat can cause fade. Fluid fade, when the brake fluid boils, the air in the fluid compromises the pressure.Pad Fade happens when the pad overheats and loses friction through glazing etc. Pad fade can happen on organics too when resin 'boils' out of the pad. Sintered metal pads are a good in-between. If you are riding XC on 160 rotors go that route. Organics bite nicely, work well for DH and large rotors, wear quickly, and are crap in wet and muddy conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo Posted April 18, 2011 Share where did you get the pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted April 18, 2011 Share it's not the pads, but the friction-induced heat caused from prolonged braking. The heat transfers to the hydraulic fluid (if u have hydraulic brakes) and causes air bubbles to form. Air bubbles are much more compressible than the hydraulic fluid, and causes your brakes to feel 'spongy' that is to say, it will lack proper feedback between pulling on the lever and the expected braking effect... Can I throw my hat into the "hydraulic fluid heats up too much" ring? How hot do these brakes get? How hot do the brakes on my motorbike get? Can we get something behind all this? I use dot 4 race on the motorbike, can I use that on the mtb? It will destroy seals, wont it? I have to use mineral oil, don't I? I think the marketers saw you lot coming a mile off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted April 18, 2011 Share Fluid fade, when the brake fluid boils, the air in the fluid compromises the pressure.Pad Fade happens when the pad overheats and loses friction through glazing etc. Pad fade can happen on organics too when resin 'boils' out of the pad. And this happens with the fun riders on this forum? Holy F*%k! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo Posted April 18, 2011 Share ok, then i'll go with sintered. the bike these pads are going on is a hartail xc bike with 160 rotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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