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regarding surfing, I used to bodyboard every single day up until about 5 years ago. I was once in the water at strand and we took a half hour paddle out to catch a big wave we could see from the break. Not until we started the paddle had we realised that the wave was huge and it was alot further out. Non the less we made it there. When I paddled over the first wave it took me about 10seconds from the top to go down the back. This wave was huge!!!! I caught about 3 or 4 of these monsters and the last one I managed to ride about 3/4 way to the shore. This wave was easily close to a 20 footer, as this was a day or 2 after some heavy swells and a storm. Trust me when I say that this wave was huge. We ended eventually only surfing big waves and we used to hike to dungeons alot just to watch the swell, and contemplate a safe way to paddle in, we did get that far. So to ride a big wave all the way, yeah, it is possible, but position on the wave is very important.

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