Caerus Posted August 22, 2011 Share So jou gat juik eintlik maar net om iets anders te probeer! Why change anything then? It weighs a ton and needs an upgrade as the rest of the bike has had, it is the only original thing from when I bought the bike 10 years ago. Change is good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboLuke Posted August 22, 2011 Share @ Caerus - you don't seriously want to go for carbon at your weight do you? You can get very light aluminium seatposts. I have a Momsen design, Thompson also has a light aluminium. Just look round. In general one can find aluminium products if you look which is just about the same weight as the carbon alternative. But lets ask - who is the dikkest oak here with a carbon seatpost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted August 22, 2011 Share Cearus I also wanted to ad, that ONLY your seat rails allow you to adjust the seat position. If the seat is adjusted to a max (fore / aft), and still NOT in the correct position "knee over pedal axle", then you have 0% adjustability left anyway, with your seat in the incorrect position. So again I say, no matter what seatpost, setback or straight, get your seat position 100% correct, and then the rest. Also, be careful with BIG jumps in stem length adjusting, 1cm can make your puppy behave like a dog... Happy hooping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYGA Posted August 22, 2011 Share I am tough on seatposts and to date have not found anything that can match a Thompson when it comes to taking full body weight on botched landings. Well worth the money you spend on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted August 22, 2011 Share @ Caerus - you don't seriously want to go for carbon at your weight do you? You can get very light aluminium seatposts. I have a Momsen design, Thompson also has a light aluminium. Just look round. In general one can find aluminium products if you look which is just about the same weight as the carbon alternative. But lets ask - who is the dikkest oak here with a carbon seatpost? Are you calling me fat ? Huh, Huh Was just wondering, maybe when Im back at 69kg I can think about a carbon seatpost Someone mentioned they are over 100kg and ride carbon seatpost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboLuke Posted August 22, 2011 Share I'm a bit heavier than you (fattr). I just don't want splintered carbon up my bum. But seriously - I swapped my existing seatpost out and saved like 400 g!...and its still aluminium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombeej Posted August 22, 2011 Share As others have said, it's all about correct seat position. E.g. take your seat position too far back and suddenly you're into ITB syndrome territory - 6+ months of pain, setbacks and frustration, trust me. Know what you're doing before you start sending your seat position backwards because someone told you once that you can generate more power in the pedalstroke, esp. uphill. I did that, and I paid for it. Edited August 22, 2011 by tombeej Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted August 22, 2011 Share Will the fact I'm also getting new SPD pedals come into play when setting my correct seat position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted August 22, 2011 Share You mean wary, not weary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted August 22, 2011 Share Will the fact I'm also getting new SPD pedals come into play when setting my correct seat position? Heigth maybe, but not fore and aft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted August 22, 2011 Share Will the fact I'm also getting new SPD pedals come into play when setting my correct seat position? Cearus You will have to approach this methodically... START:1. Get your new pedals and cleats fitted. Make sure you are happy with the cleat position2. Get your saddle position sorted, as mentioned, knee relative to pedal axle...3. Get the stem length fitted as per your requirements. If you move the cleat forward or backwards, you have to start all over to getting the seat aligned. By the way, RE the mention of more power output with a "backwards" seat fit...When you look at all the TDF guys during a TT, they keep on slipping forward and their knee seems to be in front of the pedal axle line, and this during MAX EFFORT... I wonder if that should not be an indication of max power per stroke??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT1 Posted August 22, 2011 Share By the way, RE the mention of more power output with a "backwards" seat fit...When you look at all the TDF guys during a TT, they keep on slipping forward and their knee seems to be in front of the pedal axle line, and this during MAX EFFORT... I wonder if that should not be an indication of max power per stroke??? Moving the seat back will create more leverage. IN a TT, you want a constant higher cadence, hence you move the seat forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted August 22, 2011 Share Thanks for all the help & info, very much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINER_boy Posted August 22, 2011 Share Moving the seat back will create more leverage. IN a TT, you want a constant higher cadence, hence you move the seat forward. OK, point taken. Me, I am just a Dirt Monkey riding a MTB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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