NotSoBigBen Posted November 4, 2011 Share Anyone had to replace cables/outers on their Air9 yet? BrotherBigBen seems to be 'naar' about it, must you really remove the fork and BB 'magafta' and ....... a special tool needed to remove it as well Edited November 4, 2011 by BigBen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted November 4, 2011 Share Remove old cable and feed through new cable. Now remove housing from other (open) end and feed through new housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pieterg Posted November 4, 2011 Share simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted November 4, 2011 Share Sir. I was chatting to Waylon the other day about the cable hassles he had during JHB to Sea, something along the lines of mud running down the inside of the seattube and jamming the cables up. The process of replacing the std cables with continuous involved drilling the frame and all sort of things I'm too scared to even try.I'll ask him the exact procedure when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bat-ass Posted November 4, 2011 Share That sounds like a good enough reason not to upgrade to Carbon Air nine for me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted November 4, 2011 Share Remove old cable and feed through new cable. Now remove housing from other (open) end and feed through new housing. He's not an idiot if it was that easy he would have done it. But ..... since you write it with such confidence I assume you have either done it or seen it done like that on an Air 9? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted November 4, 2011 Share Ping AndreZA ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted November 4, 2011 Share Good luck with this job. It is the crappest design ever. The cable goes internally into the tube, through the BB, where the housing disappears and a slide-guide takes over. The guide's sharp angle and exposure to dirt is a recipe for rubbish shifting. Ben, you have to remove the BB - press-fit IIRC, which you just knock out from the inside with a dowell. Most of the comments here shows that they don't understand the problem. It is not trivial, as our IT okes used to say whenever I wanted some mod done on the software. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bike Mob Posted November 4, 2011 Share I have done his a few times -I fully agree with Johan, but crappiest design even is an understatement...then they did it again on their dual sus...idiots. I drilled out the rear housing stop in the head tube (badge so it's replaceable) and ran continuous cable through to the rear. You will still need to do the BB hammer job. but next time you can use dental floss and re-cable the rear easily, for the front You cant run continued cable thru, so what i did was open it up...then insert a cable liner (cut open a length of derailer shift housing and remove the core, nice and long so you can run it up the down tube. Run the bottom end through the crappy guide and out the frame to beneath the front derailer. Allow two hours, lots of beer. Use a little hook to fetch stuff inside the frame After all of this it wont be a sticky muddy mess for at least two rides more. K@K system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pieterg Posted November 4, 2011 Share Can't you plug it with silicon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bike Mob Posted November 4, 2011 Share Can't you plug it with silicon Most of the crap comes down the seat tube.... I would suggest a cork or something below the seatpost that is removable.... it really is a ball-ache Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted November 4, 2011 Share Allow two hours, lots of beer. Use a little hook to fetch stuff inside the frame An old spoke is my most used toolbox item. I sharpened the one end for opening plastic cable housings when cut and the j-hook end is great for hooking cable inners for internally routed frames. Rant: internally routed frames....WHY? WHY? Sure they're clean looking bit the hole weakens the frame, allows water to flow freely through the frame and generally makes servicing life hell. Silly idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niner Posted November 4, 2011 Share The main reason for the gear issue is because of the hole in the seat tube and the bare cable coming out there. Mud and water runs down the FD cable and then causes nice friction on the BB cable guide. So the solution is keep the water and mud of the cable, out the frame or enclose the cables....I took the last option and I hope it helps others. RD cable1. Take a length of housing.2. Strip the "outer" so only the inner is left for length of your down tube. (or get yourself a set of Gore cables)3. Feed housing in from the RD side through the "bb cable guide" and up the down tube, using the old cable as guide or another housing.4. With the Fork out, you can put the inner into the head badge guide.# Now you have a continues cable housing from the Head badge to the RD.Next time you need to change the cable you take out the fork and guide the new cable in.No mud can get to the cable and hence no reason for replacement more often. Front Derailleur1. Do the same as above using only the inner of the cable housing.2. Make sure the inner comes out the hole in the seat tube.3. Now get one of those rubber boots(used on old V-brakes) and place it over the inner so it covers that hole. #Ninerbikes recommended that you close the hole with tape and then push the cable through.... 4. Make sure the little rubber is VERY tight around the FD cable, and covers the hole properly.5. If you need to replace the FD cable you do same as above. I know it sound fiddly, but worth it. Ninerbikes are working on a full-housing conversion or something similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted November 4, 2011 Share Thank everyone, I am passing the info on as I get it. I asusme there will be some serious 'tinkering' this weekend @Eldron you think they may have thought that if used as an SS it would look clean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niner Posted November 4, 2011 Share Most of the crap comes down the seat tube.... I would suggest a cork or something below the seatpost that is removable.... it really is a ball-acheHOw does it get in the seat tube? There is no way on my bike that anything can get into the seat tube. Where the seatpost meets the frame the seatclame keeps it just about water tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted November 4, 2011 Share Thank everyone, I am passing the info on as I get it. I asusme there will be some serious 'tinkering' this weekend @Eldron you think they may have thought that if used as an SS it would look clean? I would guess industry pressure rather than clean looks. I have to say a SS Air Carbon truly is a clean and beautiful thing! In my 20's I would have bought it in a flash - now that I'm in my 30's things like double wrapped bars, 25mm tyres and externally routed frames seem more appealing When I was 18 I used to race on 18mm Contis pumped to like 1000bar Hang on I own a SS. There goes the theory that we get smarter as we get older... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now