The Drongo Posted January 9, 2012 Share 1) You can buy a spring rated for your weight, which will sort out the bottoming out issue right away. Call your LBS and see how little a heavier specc'd spring will cost you. Vex. My bad. As Rob says, you can buy a spring rated for heavier weight. Cape Cycle Systems should have (red). It may be worth checking, before you order, if the existing spring is marked. Should have some yellow paint (med). You will need Red for weight over 78kg CCS are on 0217613528 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smolly Posted January 9, 2012 Share Rockshox SID 120mm How my ride changed after that investment! Have a recon with a tapered steerer for sale EDIT: Cheap Edited January 9, 2012 by Smolster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vexer Posted January 9, 2012 Share Vex. My bad. As Rob says, you can buy a spring rated for heavier weight. Cape Cycle Systems should have (red). It may be worth checking, before you order, if the existing spring is marked. Should have some yellow paint (med). You will need Red for weight over 78kg CCS are on 0217613528 Cool. Thanks! I'll get in contact with them and see what is available. Thanks for all the replies guys! I'm sure I'll find a solution based on what you've all said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton1 Posted January 9, 2012 Share I see the Suntour air forks mentioned. I have the Suntour Raidon Air on my Silverback Phoenix. I'm sure it is an entry level one but I am not at all impressed. No rebound adjustment (do any air forks have these?) and seems to do very little even after trying to let air out, put back in etc. Edited January 9, 2012 by Clint_ZA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Keep Pedaling Posted January 9, 2012 Share Word of warning: Forks need to fit at both ends. You can get Tapered or 1 1/8' (and others I am sure) at the top and quick release and various other standards at the wheel end. Don't buy one that does not fit (GT Avalanche don't use tapered steerers as far as I know). Edited January 9, 2012 by Just Keep Pedaling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted January 9, 2012 Share A wise old Mtb'er once told me if you do not bottom out at least once per ride, you have too "much fork". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubbelBuys Posted January 9, 2012 Share Hi Vex, I've got a Reba dual air RLT for R2800 incl postage. Fork has only done 900km & steerer is around 215-220mm (which is serviced +- a month ago - don't use it as I've got another bike) I must add that the Reba feels smoother than my Fox F120 RL that's on my dual suspension. Just wish there was an option to get a 15mm maxle lowers for the reba. Haven't ridden the Recon yet, but it seems to be a good fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROFBEER Posted January 9, 2012 Share Save your money and get a Rock Shox 120mm Reba Dual air! It is awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vexer Posted January 9, 2012 Share Thanks for all the response! So much choice! I think I'm going to try and get the coil changed out for a stronger one before I change out the entire fork/start looking for another bike etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwtCraigMachine Posted January 9, 2012 Share I see the Suntour air forks mentioned. I have the Suntour Raidon Air on my Silverback Phoenix. I'm sure it is an entry level one but I am not at all impressed. No rebound adjustment (do any air forks have these?) and seems to do very little even after trying to let air out, put back in etc. Do you happen to know which Raidon it is? They have quite a range and it is helluv confusing I just bought a second-hand Epicon, and it has rebound adjust and remote travel adjust (100-140), but I know not all of them have that... Aside: I paid R400 for my Epicon, which seemed pretty good value, but I haven't taken it for a ride yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwtCraigMachine Posted January 9, 2012 Share 3) You'll need to cut down the steerer tube of this fork, which will mean it'll likely not fit your next frame should you upgrade (which you will) IMO, if you buy a new fork (or a used one with a long steerer), DON'T cut the steerer. It might look a bit cak, and/or need lots of spacers, but it will drastically reduce the resale value of the fork (especially if it's trimmed to less than about 210mm, judging by what goes on theHub) and, as rob_mtb says, might create problems with fitting to a new bike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted January 9, 2012 Share Thanks for all the response! So much choice! I think I'm going to try and get the coil changed out for a stronger one before I change out the entire fork/start looking for another bike etc. That's the right choice. Listen to RobMTB. Buying a new fork 'cause yours bottoms out is like buying new wheels because the air pressure in your current tyres is low. Even if you cannot find a spring off the shelf, it is easy and cheap to have them manufactured to spec. Installing the spring will take you 30 seconds flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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