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Posted (edited)

And here you assuming that the tyre manufacturers have there branding spot on through various batches to measure alignment?

 

No. Was just asking Dangle (as a very good bike builder) that when building a wheelset, if going to the extreme of lining up the wheel and tyre logos exactly is necessary, like my guy. The guy who built my wheels is like that. My crest and shwalbe logos are lined up perfectly. Actually looks very good and (personally) it tells me he takes a great deal of pride in his work. Now don't tear me apart by making inferences that Dangle doesn't do the same. I was asking his opinion out of respect for his reputation and abilities.

Edited by tombeej
Posted

Ok one last question Dangle. Is this your bike? I know you're a Niner fan, plus an oldschool disciple of the fully rigid. But a Spez frame with niner fork is an interesting combo. If not yours, who did you build this for, and for a specific race?

Posted

Hi Tombee

 

The bike belongs to a guy called Albe.

 

Regarding your questions and building.

I used to, many years ago be very pedantic about tires on rims, now I just couldn't be bothered, one ride and it all looks like a dogs breakfast in any case, I do make sure however that we have some printing above the valve. (makes life a little easier to find the valve in a mechanical)

 

 

I become much more anal about cable routing and cable lengths, using the proper headset components such as the reducers needed for this particular bike.

 

Regarding wheel building, I am a real PITA, depending what nipples I use, I even soak them in linseed oil for an hour or so before I start building.

 

This particular wheel set was all about strength and trying to keep the weight relatively moderate, so I decided on 2 cross, some real light spokes and pro-lock nipples.

Pics here:

 

post-4100-0-46557300-1327648021.jpg

 

post-4100-0-84597600-1327647995.jpg

 

post-4100-0-68518400-1327648047.jpg

Posted

Hi Tombee

 

The bike belongs to a guy called Albe.

 

Regarding your questions and building.

I used to, many years ago be very pedantic about tires on rims, now I just couldn't be bothered, one ride and it all looks like a dogs breakfast in any case, I do make sure however that we have some printing above the valve. (makes life a little easier to find the valve in a mechanical)

 

 

I become much more anal about cable routing and cable lengths, using the proper headset components such as the reducers needed for this particular bike.

 

Regarding wheel building, I am a real PITA, depending what nipples I use, I even soak them in linseed oil for an hour or so before I start building.

 

This particular wheel set was all about strength and trying to keep the weight relatively moderate, so I decided on 2 cross, some real light spokes and pro-lock nipples.

Pics here:

 

 

What does this do? :unsure:

Posted

thanks Dangle.

I know master builders have their own little quirks and ways of doing things, so that was kinda what i was asking. Thanks for your response. For example, your method of colour coding the nipples next to the valve (and opposite) is something I haven't seen before. Nice touch.

 

Are those Revolution spokes?

 

When you say you're a PITA when it comes to wheel building, I'm guessing you don't belong to the school of thought that says "the customer is always right". The internet is an amazing place of information that turns everyone into an expert overnight. But at the end of the day, your experience (and reputation) is what keeps people coming back I guess, so you have to stand firm on some things, especially wheelbuilding, which for me is the truest artform that separates the masters from the mechs.

Posted

Bike was 9.2 kg's with supplied fork.

The Niner fork weighs 480 grams.

It's not the tapered steerer version.

The renegades will drop the bike way below 8

There is talk of 29'er tubbies on the way.

 

Hi Dangle

 

I have been looking for a standard (non tapered) niner fork for some time now. Can you get hold of one for me and what would the cost be?

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