26 vs 29

[King_Crispy]

Throwing the Axis A10 full suss into the mix now. That a lot of bike for your bike...

 

Not totally convinced on the frame, but the Reba does tempt me

 

KORE cockpit and whellset...any comments ?

 

The Momsen is good value for money (esp with that ZTR wheeset) but I dont like the look of the frame..that curve on the down tube isnt for me.

 

The GT is a nice looking bike and frame feels good on a test ride around the parking lot (although this doesnt say much)

 

Which Scott are you referring to ?

The Merida also has the curve.

Where do you live? Maybe you can take my Gary Fisher 29er out and see if the whole big-wheel thing is for you. Why not change your bike to 27.5?

[Cav']

Have you decided on a bike yet? the 29er ds shoot out in the new Bicycling is very cool in comparing ds 29er's.

[Audible Anarchy]

budget of 7000 - 8000k for a new MTB

 

looking at the following, all approx same price:

 

without wanting to start yet anotehr 26 vs 29 debate - ive read a lot about the 29er craze and am a little stumped as to whether to get a med / low spec 29er such as the examples below - or if its better to get a 26" at a better spec?

 

 

im leaning towards the alpine 1 personally as i can then have decent parts should i want to get a carbon frame later on? or is it worth it to go 29er even though the spec is less?

 

thoughts?

 

will be riding spruit mostly and wont be doing any serious stage races or anything. i need something that can handle a bit of throwing around / abuse and will last a while.

 

 

26"

 

Silverback alpine 1 / GT avalanche 1 (both rock shox / 9spd deore w xt rear derailleur)

 

or

 

29"

 

Silverback Vida 4(acera 9 / slx rear / suntour) / gt karakoram 2 (deore rear / alivio 9 / rockshox)

[Audible Anarchy]

also,could someone pls give me an idea of what it costs to do a tubeless conversion after purchase?

[Cruz Addict]

The answer depends on what you want to do, have fun or ride fast, a 29 er has its advantages in terms of speed but you roll over obstacles and dont really get the feel of a technical riding, a 26 however is harder work and doesn't roll as fast but feels more in contact with the trail, personally I would go for the better spec 26.

A tubeless conversation on non tubeless ready wheel is about R600 odd, you can do the make a plan route but that ha its own challenges. Oh sorry that's without tubeless tires, if you choose a proper UST sidewall add that cost to the conversation.

[Audible Anarchy]

like using the stans kits etc... can i take existing tyres / that use tubes and convert them this way?

 

without having to go ust - is this what you mean by R600 p wheel? do you need special tyres?

 

a lot of these bikes come with the kenda block 8's which ive read are rubbish in more than one review so if better tyres are needed in order to convert to tubeless, can you suggest anything?

[Skubarra]

I had exactly the same problem, personally I went for the better specs (bought the Spectra 3.0 which is the model just after the Alpine 1). For me the deciding factor was the reliability, (I do a lot of marathon races so don't want too much entry level parts on my bike). I still want to try out a 29er at a later stage though, just not an entry level one.

 

Good luck with the decision!

[nickelass]

I would go for a better spec 26,much lighter,and you get the better fork,that is worth much more in riding performance.

[Carrot]

I highly recommend The Merida TFS500 Big nine

http://www.cyclelab.com/products/MERIDA%20BIG%20NINE%20TFS%20500%20(2012).aspx

 

That said, components make all the difference, especially to the "feel" of the bike. It's noticeable the difference good components make even when just holding the handlebar, go see for yourself. Good brakes, good shifters and smooth soft suspension are more important than just having bigger wheels.

[Audible Anarchy]

how do you guys rate the deore groupsets? do you need to go as high as slx?

 

and one last query

 

is 9 speed good enough? or is 10 worth the extra money?

 

thanks for all the help so far!

Edited April 14, 2012 by Audible Anarchy

[Konaman]

Unless you are a serious rider, i will go for the lightest, best spec bike you can get. At the end of the day, the lightest bike will make you faster up the climbs. If you want the wheels to roll a bit softer , but probably have a much heavier and expensive bike - go for the 29er.

9 speed is fine, unless you want to spend more

I love my 26er softail and has no intention of beating the top riders. Just want to enjoy the ride at a reasonable pace and stay fit.

 

Get the Stans tubeless tape to fit into rims + valves to make wheels tubeless - much cheaper option. Most Maxxis and many other tyres, can easily be made tubeless with the stans tape + slyme - don't need genuine tubeless tyres

[Konaman]

I would look for a good 2nd hand bike, and be prepared to replace maybe some drivetrain parts like chain, casette and chain rings to get it 100%. Also check fork for leaks etc.

[Cav']

I would look for a good 2nd hand bike, and be prepared to replace maybe some drivetrain parts like chain, casette and chain rings to get it 100%. Also check fork for leaks etc.

+1 on 2nd hand at that price

[Cruz Addict]

like using the stans kits etc... can i take existing tyres / that use tubes and convert them this way?

 

without having to go ust - is this what you mean by R600 p wheel? do you need special tyres?

 

a lot of these bikes come with the kenda block 8's which ive read are rubbish in more than one review so if better tyres are needed in order to convert to tubeless, can you suggest anything?

R600 for stans tubeless conversion kit, includes 2 rim strips and sealant. You don't need to change the tires but personally I don't trust the thin sidewall on non UST tires, rather go for the best tires you can afford, me I love 2.4 continental mountain king but I am a sucker for punishment, with regards the bike look a the classifieds there are a few really good deals.

Deor is not bad and unless you plan on being more than a weekend warrior will be more than sufficient, just remember though that it is the worst of the best( by that I mean it is the lowest spec decent groupset out there), that being said though the 2013 deor is roumeoured to be this years slx so wouldn't worry too much

[ALWO]

My son is doing for a school project tests to establish the fisical difference between 2 sizes. He had a lot of volunteers locally to ride the same route with the two sizes. Now that he needs the results it is all excuses. Anybody who has some stats on rides who is willing to share it - please contact me on adriaan.lategan@afrimat.co.za What is needed: dist, ave spd, time, ave hr, max hr, and calouries.

[Cav']

What school gives out projects like this?

We did boring stuff back in the day - like comparing Diesel to Petrol