Jump to content

New tyres not keeping pressure


awesme

Recommended Posts

Ye, seems to me I'm being stupid.

 

either a tyre needs a tube or it does not. simple as that.

 

The fact that I use Stan's or similar is for me to choose, as it helps when I hit something on the trail. Should not be needed to get the tyre sealed to start with.

 

So is someone going to explain the difference between:

 

Protection, UST, Tubeless ready as all seem to fall under tubeless.

 

G

 

I know the continental site, and many others imply that the Protections are tubeless ready, but I bought some new tyres off the top-secret online store (R300ea for MKII and X-king USTs, oh yeah!)... and on that site one can specify tubeless or non-tubeless as a filter. When doing that it has the Protections under the non-tubeless section. Hence why I went with the USTs. That said... I really hope they seat properly and stay inflated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

awesme, ...dude... just pump them 2.2 bar and go for a 20km ride.

 

No tire will keep it's pressure, especially if you dont ride it and just hang it up on the wall to look pretty....

 

you need to use those Haven's... it's sacrilege... those wheels need to be used boy!!!

 

It's simple, you are not going to perform like a pornstar if you are a virgin or coming off a long "break"....

 

I have those exact same tires, on those exact same wheels, on my SB-66.... no problems, ever.

Edited by TheV
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone care to comment:

 

Please explain the Protection, UST, Tubeless ready

 

Seems I've been bitten by a bad choice.

 

G

Nope not necessarily...like swiss explained UST tyres have very thick sidewalls...virtually eliminating small leaks but it comes at a price...they are HEAVY.

 

Protection...snakeskin versions of tyres have some kind of re-inforcement but it's not as heavy as full UST but then again not as tough. Protection is conti's version of this

 

Geax = TNT

Schwalbe = snakeskin

 

Tybeless ready just means it can be converted tubeless with sealant with or without strips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

V, eina... I'm hurt... hehehe

 

I will go ride more, promise, just been sick, did a couple of km's last week with nsBB, had to pump them half way down the bull run. Then the evening put some Stan's in quickly (only got the Stan's while at CycleHub after the ride), pumped them and felt they going flat again.

 

Thats the MK on my bike, the MK on the tyre hanging on the wall, totally flat again.

 

G

 

awesme, ...dude... just pump them 2.2 bar and go for a 20km ride.

 

No tire will keep it's pressure, especially if you dont ride it and just hang it up on the wall to look pretty....

 

you need to use those Haven's... it's sacrilege... those wheels need to be used boy!!!

 

It's simple, you are not going to perform like a pornstar if you are a virgin or coming off a long "break"....

 

I have those exact same tires, on those exact same wheels, on my SB-66.... no problems, ever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, so:

 

UST's are total first choice from bullet proof, but heavy.

 

Protection is also like above, but much thinner/more chance of puncture, but lighter.

 

Tubeless ready, hmm whats the difference between this and the above's then?

 

under what does Mountain Kings and Race Kings fit.

 

G

 

 

Nope not necessarily...like swiss explained UST tyres have very thick sidewalls...virtually eliminating small leaks but it comes at a price...they are HEAVY.

 

Protection...snakeskin versions of tyres have some kind of re-inforcement but it's not as heavy as full UST but then again not as tough. Protection is conti's version of this

 

Geax = TNT

Schwalbe = snakeskin

 

Tybeless ready just means it can be converted tubeless with sealant with or without strips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

awesme, ...dude... just pump them 2.2 bar and go for a 20km ride.

 

snip snip

 

you need to use those Haven's... it's sacrilege... those wheels need to be used boy!!!

 

snip snip

 

 

That's what I said in post #4, but what do I know :whistling: ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nsBB

 

and I said, I promised I willlllll, just still down and out. Wanted to go ride tomorrow again but still not good idea.

 

G

 

 

 

That's what I said in post #4, but what do I know :whistling: ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm def not going to have to check pressure every time and pump every time... I've had Conti Race kings on bike for a year and maybe once had to add some air, I expect a tyre to keep pressure.

 

 

 

Hell pumping 2 tyres or checking the pressure takes how long? 2 minutes and thats if you stop for a smoke between tyres...

Either you are brave that you trust that your tyres are at the right pressure without checking, or your pumping them so hard that if they go down slightly it makes no difference to safety...

 

Anyway, the lighter (thinner tubeless ready rubber) the tyre the more likely you will have these issues you are now having when they are still new. Tubeless or UST are made from thicker rubber so less likely to have these issues.

 

Have a look at this thread

 

http://www.thehubsa....ed/page__st__16

 

and at Stans tubeless coversion process step 6 and picture #10 wrt to sealing sidewalls

 

http://www.notubes.c...nversion-EN.pdf

Edited by SwissVan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pdf,

 

G

 

 

 

Hell pumping 2 tyres or checking the pressure takes how long? 2 minutes and thats if you stop for a smoke between tyres...

Either you are brave that you trust that your tyres are at the right pressure without checking, or your pumping them so hard that if they go down slightly it makes no difference to safety...

 

Anyway, the lighter (thinner tubeless ready rubber) the tyre the more likely you will have these issues you are now having when they are still new. Tubeless or UST are made from thicker rubber so less likely to have these issues.

 

Have a look at this thread

 

http://www.thehubsa....ed/page__st__16

 

and at Stans tubeless coversion process step 6 and picture #10 wrt to sealing sidewalls

 

http://www.notubes.c...nversion-EN.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nsBB

 

and I said, I promised I willlllll, just still down and out. Wanted to go ride tomorrow again but still not good idea.

 

G

 

Oh, did anyone mention the Stan's secret yet... I almost forgot?

 

You have to down a half a cup of Stans and squeeze some lemon in your left eye. Otherwise it wont seal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, so:

 

UST's are total first choice from bullet proof, but heavy.

 

Protection is also like above, but much thinner/more chance of puncture, but lighter.

 

Tubeless ready, hmm whats the difference between this and the above's then?

 

under what does Mountain Kings and Race Kings fit.

 

G

Almost but here is my take on it

 

UST(Universal System Tubeless) is very heavy and yes bulletproof in most instances but the extra weight is just not worth it imo...its my second choice. They are all branded with UST and the manufacturers pay royalties(to mavic I think) to use this.

 

Protection...Snakeskin...Exo are brand specific wall enforcement for sidewall cuts but still lightweight compared to full UST tyres...sort of middle of the road...my first option. They still have the little holes on the sidewalls where air normally leaks from but sealant will doctor this

 

Tubeless ready just means that it can be converted with slime and strips...and has nothing to do with the sidewalls

 

Which model of race king or mountain king...you can get the same tyre that falls into three categories

 

UST

Protection

None

Link to comment
Share on other sites

V, damm missed that step in the doc SwissVan just send.

 

G

 

 

 

Oh, did anyone mention the Stan's secret yet... I almost forgot?

 

You have to down a half a cup of Stans and squeeze some lemon in your left eye. Otherwise it wont seal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also check that the valve is properly tightened, and that the valve stem retaining nut is holding the valve to the rim tightly. Learnt the hard way that if this is loose, you will also lose air in the tyre over time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't worry, found that within the first 5 minutes.

 

G

 

Also check that the valve is properly tightened, and that the valve stem retaining nut is holding the valve to the rim tightly. Learnt the hard way that if this is loose, you will also lose air in the tyre over time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout