Convert 2x10 to 1x10

[jatho]

So I'm toying with the idea of converting my 29'er from 2x10 to 1x10 mainly because my crank is a bit hammered but quite like the idea of a 1x10 and don't often drop into the small ring anyway. I like the SRAM XX1 crankset, question is will it work OK with Shimano 10 speed cassette and RD? Cant see a reason why it wont but thought I'd put it out the the clever hubbers for some advise.

 

I'd probably also need the XX1 chain?

 

Any suggestions on other cranks I should look at?

[Flippa]

Just get a SS specfic front ring in whatever size you fancy. You don't need to change the crank.

 

Oh, and a chainguide.

 

I ran a 33 Blackspire Mono Veloce front ring with a MRP 1x chainguide with a 34x12 rear cassette. No issues at all. I didn't feel like I ran out of gears either up or down.

[jatho]

Just get a SS specfic front ring in whatever size you fancy. You don't need to change the crank.

 

Oh, and a chainguide.

 

I ran a 33 Blackspire Mono Veloce front ring with a MRP 1x chainguide with a 34x12 rear cassette. No issues at all. I didn't feel like I ran out of gears either up or down.

The crankset needs changing that's why I'm looking at a complete unit, the XX1 also apparently doesn't need a chain guide which I liked.

[rock]

32t E13 chainring upfront and an E13 chain guide, want to say never dropped a chain once but I actually did a few weeks ago, completely freak indecent ..... don't ever expect to have it happen again.

 

1x10 is awesome, so much easier, hassle free, lighter........you wont be able to mix n match XX1

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

The XX1 crankset requires the XX1 chain to operate. The profile of the teeth are such that a normal chain will not fit.

 

As far as the RD / Cassette - I don't think you'll have a problem but then the question begs - why not just get a normal single ring setup and then run a chain guide? It will achieve the same result, and with FAR better cost effectiveness. You can then use the cash to go for something else.

 

Remember - a big drawcard of the xx1 system is the ear Derailleur and its operation characteristics, that constantly tension the chain far better than any other RD on the market. So you'd still probably need a chain tensioner of some sort, as you're only running with a 50% system...

[M L]

I have a x9 crank on my cannondale frame, it's bcd's are too small or too big for me to get a 30 or 32t chainring. Also running 1x10 on the 26t chainring, not ideal since I spin out at around 37km/h. But my alternative is to get a pressfit bb30 and buy a shimano 3 blade crank or buy a sram s2200 bb30 crank.

 

I don't run a chainguide and my chain has never fallen off. RD is a med cage and I have gone down single track I thought it must surely fall off now, so I think that is just a gimmick, in reality chains don't fall off that easily.

 

What crank and bb configuration do you have now?

[jatho]

The XX1 crankset requires the XX1 chain to operate. The profile of the teeth are such that a normal chain will not fit.

 

As far as the RD / Cassette - I don't think you'll have a problem but then the question begs - why not just get a normal single ring setup and then run a chain guide? It will achieve the same result, and with FAR better cost effectiveness. You can then use the cash to go for something else.

 

Remember - a big drawcard of the xx1 system is the ear Derailleur and its operation characteristics, that constantly tension the chain far better than any other RD on the market. So you'd still probably need a chain tensioner of some sort, as you're only running with a 50% system...

If I went with the XX1 I'd definitely get the chain as well, was just wondering if it was a requirement which it seems it is because of the chainring teeth.

[jatho]

I have a x9 crank on my cannondale frame, it's bcd's are too small or too big for me to get a 30 or 32t chainring. Also running 1x10 on the 26t chainring, not ideal since I spin out at around 37km/h. But my alternative is to get a pressfit bb30 and buy a shimano 3 blade crank or buy a sram s2200 bb30 crank.

 

I don't run a chainguide and my chain has never fallen off. RD is a med cage and I have gone down single track I thought it must surely fall off now, so I think that is just a gimmick, in reality chains don't fall off that easily.

 

What crank and bb configuration do you have now?

Its on a Cannondale Flash, BB30, Ideally, I'd like a 34t and 38t that I can chop and change depending on the terrain, but I dont ride light gears so would probably end up sticking with the 38t mostly.

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

If I went with the XX1 I'd definitely get the chain as well, was just wondering if it was a requirement which it seems it is because of the chainring teeth.

 

it is a requirement...

[Flippa]

The crankset needs changing that's why I'm looking at a complete unit, the XX1 also apparently doesn't need a chain guide which I liked.

 

If you're going to change your crank, then go for any one of the 4x104 bcd cranks. Shimano 780/785, some of the FSA and mate one of the many commercial SS rings to it.

 

I'm not sure if the XX1 chain will fit your 10 speed cassette.

[M L]

Its on a Cannondale Flash, BB30, Ideally, I'd like a 34t and 38t that I can chop and change depending on the terrain, but I dont ride light gears so would probably end up sticking with the 38t mostly.

 

Same boat as you are.

 

Why not just go with a bb30 crank and remove the small chainring? My x9 crank is 26/39 so that is 1 tooth more than you want, but if you are talking about xx1 then the pap must obviously be duk. In that case I would buy a sram x0 downhill crank. You can keep your chain and it wont cost that much.

 

What crank do you have now?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I have a x9 crank on my cannondale frame, it's bcd's are too small or too big for me to get a 30 or 32t chainring. Also running 1x10 on the 26t chainring, not ideal since I spin out at around 37km/h. But my alternative is to get a pressfit bb30 and buy a shimano 3 blade crank or buy a sram s2200 bb30 crank.

 

I don't run a chainguide and my chain has never fallen off. RD is a med cage and I have gone down single track I thought it must surely fall off now, so I think that is just a gimmick, in reality chains don't fall off that easily.

 

What crank and bb configuration do you have now?

 

Dude, if you chain DOESN'T fall off, and you're running a single ring setup without a type 2 rear derailleur, a chain on it's limit ito length and a chain guide, then you're not riding fast at all.

 

I run a 32t up front with my FD as an upper guide, and my chain literally on its limit and it still comes off on technical terrain.

 

I used to have my 1x9 without any guides, but as soon as I hit any rocky / rooty / jumpy terrain it (the chain) would come off. I literally had to put the FD on there again just to act as an upper guide, as I was having to replace my chain 3 to 4 times per ride. ALL of that was on the way down Tokai.

 

Yes, with a type 2 rd you can get away with just running an upper guide, IF your chain is spaced correctly. But at one point it will still come off without a lower guide, unless you're running the profiled teeth of the XX1 setup and the XX1rd / type 2 SRAM rd.

 

That, unfortunately, is a fact.

[jatho]

If you're going to change your crank, then go for any one of the 4x104 bcd cranks. Shimano 780/785, some of the FSA and mate one of the many commercial SS rings to it.

 

I'm not sure if the XX1 chain will fit your 10 speed cassette.

I cant see why it wouldn't fit, isnt it just narrower?

[jatho]

Same boat as you are.

 

Why not just go with a bb30 crank and remove the small chainring? My x9 crank is 26/39 so that is 1 tooth more than you want, but if you are talking about xx1 then the pap must obviously be duk. In that case I would buy a sram x0 downhill crank. You can keep your chain and it wont cost that much.

 

What crank do you have now?

 

Yeah I might just end up doing that, looks like it might be the better way forward. Current cranks are SRAM XO.

[NotSoBigBen]

Dude, if you chain DOESN'T fall off, and you're running a single ring setup without a type 2 rear derailleur, a chain on it's limit ito length and a chain guide, then you're not riding fast at all.

 

I run a 32t up front with my FD as an upper guide, and my chain literally on its limit and it still comes off on technical terrain.

 

I used to have my 1x9 without any guides, but as soon as I hit any rocky / rooty / jumpy terrain it (the chain) would come off. I literally had to put the FD on there again just to act as an upper guide, as I was having to replace my chain 3 to 4 times per ride. ALL of that was on the way down Tokai.

 

Yes, with a type 2 rd you can get away with just running an upper guide, IF your chain is spaced correctly. But at one point it will still come off without a lower guide, unless you're running the profiled teeth of the XX1 setup and the XX1rd / type 2 SRAM rd.

 

That, unfortunately, is a fact.

 

I must agree, tried everything to have no guide (just cause it looks so damn neat ), shortened chain, short cage RD ... all fine on the way to my normal XC type course at Rietvlei but the minute I was in the course on some bumpy stuff it would come off. Not just once but a few times per ride

 

Put the guide on and it works a treat ....

[M L]

Dude, if you chain DOESN'T fall off, and you're running a single ring setup without a type 2 rear derailleur, a chain on it's limit ito length and a chain guide, then you're not riding fast at all.

 

I run a 32t up front with my FD as an upper guide, and my chain literally on its limit and it still comes off on technical terrain.

 

I used to have my 1x9 without any guides, but as soon as I hit any rocky / rooty / jumpy terrain it (the chain) would come off. I literally had to put the FD on there again just to act as an upper guide, as I was having to replace my chain 3 to 4 times per ride. ALL of that was on the way down Tokai.

 

Yes, with a type 2 rd you can get away with just running an upper guide, IF your chain is spaced correctly. But at one point it will still come off without a lower guide, unless you're running the profiled teeth of the XX1 setup and the XX1rd / type 2 SRAM rd.

 

That, unfortunately, is a fact.

 

Only drove it in Paarl, but here is a 400mm piece of singletrack with lots of ruts, roots and very jumpy terrain, went down there a few times now where I only heard the clattering of the chain slapping on the frame and it stayed on all the time.

 

Chain on it's limits, what's that?