Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Why is that JB, I own two sets and have never had an issue...Is there something I don't know?

 

Once you read the a proper skewer manual (check out the Shimano skewer manual online) and you understand that bearing preload is partly supplied by skewer tension, you'll realize that your skewers are not nearly tight enough. This means that you have too little bearing preload and premature wear.

 

Then, once you try and tighten your Hope/Zipp/Mavic skewer to the right tension, you'll find that the friction and handle ergonomics make it nigh impossible to get the correct tension. Some skewers have some flimsy handles that they break, as I alluded to in an earlier post. I think it was a Bontrager IIRC.

 

What Shimano knows about bearings and bearing preload, other companies must still learn.

 

Also, 90% of creaking rear wheel problems emanate from poor skewer tension which is directly related to poor skewer design.

 

Good enough has never been good enough.

Posted

Once you read the a proper skewer manual (check out the Shimano skewer manual online) and you understand that bearing preload is partly supplied by skewer tension, you'll realize that your skewers are not nearly tight enough. This means that you have too little bearing preload and premature wear.

 

Then, once you try and tighten your Hope/Zipp/Mavic skewer to the right tension, you'll find that the friction and handle ergonomics make it nigh impossible to get the correct tension. Some skewers have some flimsy handles that they break, as I alluded to in an earlier post. I think it was a Bontrager IIRC.

 

What Shimano knows about bearings and bearing preload, other companies must still learn.

 

Also, 90% of creaking rear wheel problems emanate from poor skewer tension which is directly related to poor skewer design.

 

Good enough has never been good enough.

Ta, will admit...never read the manual, as a matter of fact, I don't think my hope ones came with any....The hope ones are pretty heavy though, but strong and looks hot(that matters to me hahaha)...thought that is all that matters.

Posted

Ta, will admit...never read the manual, as a matter of fact, I don't think my hope ones came with any....The hope ones are pretty heavy though, but strong and looks hot(that matters to me hahaha)...thought that is all that matters.

 

Hot you say? I humbly disagree. The finishing is only half done. Only the facing side of the lever is chamfered, the back is sharp-edged. The brass bushing has more friction than a religious discourse and spring...well, that was designed by a fairy.

 

But I have to admit, they do come in pretty colours and a very nice cardboard box.

Posted

Hot you say? I humbly disagree. The finishing is only half done. Only the facing side of the lever is chamfered, the back is sharp-edged. The brass bushing has more friction than a religious discourse and spring...well, that was designed by a fairy.

 

But I have to admit, they do come in pretty colours and a very nice cardboard box.

My hot....who care about function...it is overrated :eek:

Posted

Hi All,

 

I'm in the process of purchasing some skewers for my road bike, and just wondering if anybody has any experience with these Aest Ti skewers.

 

http://www.cwcycles....ages/yqr-05.jpg

 

I see it does not have the quick release levers and just wondering how they work.

 

Those skewers you are referring to there is intended for track use, where QR skewers are not allowed.

Some guys use converted road bikes on the track and they need these types of skewers.

Sure, you can use them for road or mtb as well but the QR versions are much more convenient when you need to remove a wheel.

 

The Aest skewers has a piece of plastic between the QR lever and spring which keeps breaking it seems

Posted

Johan, please let me know about the skewers you have, I need a rear MTB one - and why cant a PM you? weird.

 

I've disabled PM. Too many people asking weight-related questions.

 

johanatyellowsaddledotceeodotzeda

Posted

I'll 2nd all the Shimano or Campagnolo QR recommendations.

 

The only fancy pants QR I use is the Crank Bros SPlit QR:http://www.crankbrothers.com/accessories_quickrelease.php

The 2 stage cam and lever makes it easier to close the open cams and get the right tension but it still suffers from being an open cam and therefore will get dirty, corrode and from time to time be difficult to use.

 

When it comes to hubs, Shimano, Campagnolo, DT Swiss, Chris King are all I really consider because they all use a cup cand cone bearing or a variation on that called an angular thrust roller bearing.

 

Sealed bearing hubs and their external fancy QR's are forged in the fires of Mordor by Orks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout