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Rim tape for tubeless tyres


Leon Besaans

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Posted

Dude, I hope you never have to change your tubeless setup, cos that stiff is a beeeeeeyatch to remove. The filaments stay behind, and you have to prise each one off individually. Then they snap and you have to start all over again.

 

Bit of advice - next time, go for duct (duck) tape, or gorilla tape. You may have to cut it in half (a stanley knife just rotated around the entire roll works fantastically) but it's far cleaner and easier to maintain.

Thx Mayhem! Now I also hope I never have to remove it... :/

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Posted

Does anybody know where in can find Gorilla Tape in JHB?

 

I checked their site and the Stockists page is empty and I went to 3 cycle shops in Honeydew/Roodepoort yesterday and none of them had any...

 

I tried the Rydon tape but that's a complete waste of time!!

Posted

Does anybody know where in can find Gorilla Tape in JHB?

 

I checked their site and the Stockists page is empty and I went to 3 cycle shops in Honeydew/Roodepoort yesterday and none of them had any...

 

I tried the Rydon tape but that's a complete waste of time!!

Builders warehouse, or any other hardware store. If they only have the 50mm roll, then just get a stanley knife and cut down the centre so you have 2x25mm wide strips. 

 

It doesn't HAVE to be gorilla tape, but that is the best to use. You also get the Pratley's duct tape that comes in 5m rolls - that's a bit cheaper than the big rolls. 

Posted

Maybe belt and braces... Insulation tape first and then Ghetto Tubeless?

 

On the subject of Ghetto Tubeless, is it a once off conversion that needs to be repeated every time you change a tyre or remove a tyre or can you take tyres off and replace without replacing the split tube?

 Ghetto tubeless works brilliantly but if you use sealant (which you should) my experience is that the `tube` virtually glues itself to the tyre after a while and it becomes quiet a mission to remove it which often results in a damaged tube/liner. The reason it works well is because many non-tubeless rims have slightly oversized valve apertures and inner rim profiles which  don`t create a tight enough seal at the valve.

The best solution i have found is to use gorilla tape(Builders warehouse sells a 25mm wide roll) in 2 layers, neatly trimmed so that the rim lip seal is not overlapped( trim to the vertical part of the rim. Just ensure that you have cleaned your rim thoroughly and degrease with some meths/ disk brake cleaner and that you seal your tape down tighly. Rub it down into the rim profile with a smooth cloth.

You must wrap the tape twice around and starting about 4 cm from the valve hole tape over the hole and then overlap the hole at least twice  Then take an ordinary orange/black patch , make a small hole in this and force the valve through it to create an additional rubber seal to take up some of the play and fit the rim profile better, trim to about 5mm all round.(`the steel and`o`ring TL valves work fine) Then drill through the gorrilla tape and valve hole to make a precise aperture so that the valve squeezes through very tightly. Make sure you tighten the valve with the locknut from outside. the valve must feel nice and tight. Use a TL ready/ UST tube, some sealant and you should be ready to go. 

This way is much better than ghetto if you tend to chop and change your tyres often to suit your riding conditions. Also remember that you will need a compressor or a Co2 bomb to inflate the tyre.

Posted

I just use 2 or 3 layers of gorilla tape, trimmed to match the profile of the rim and then take a knife, cut an X above the valve hole and then use some gasket maker (black silicone) to seal it up near the valve. It hardens nicely, and creates a perfect seal.

You bed the valve in the silicone or seal it from the outside of the rim?
Posted

You bed the valve in the silicone or seal it from the outside of the rim?

Bed it in, but take care to push the tip of the valve through BEFORE you place the silicone, otherwise you've just lost the ability of the valve to accept any air. 

 

Leave it for a couple of hours to harden up (overnight, preferably) and hey presto. Unless you have a threaded valve, in which case you can just secure it like that and not have to wait for the silicone to dry properly. 

Posted

Bed it in, but take care to push the tip of the valve through BEFORE you place the silicone, otherwise you've just lost the ability of the valve to accept any air. 

 

Leave it for a couple of hours to harden up (overnight, preferably) and hey presto. Unless you have a threaded valve, in which case you can just secure it like that and not have to wait for the silicone to dry properly.

That explains a lot.

I may swear less when doing this in future.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I asked a similar question at the LBS and they suggested using a 26er (I think) inner tube and stretching it over the rim (using the tube's built-in valve), then using a razor blade to trim the edges.

Tried this today on a 26" but somehow forgot I'm supposed to use the tube of a smaller wheel :-( Couldn't figure out what to do with the tube that was very loose on the rim!! Want to try again, will a 20" tube be too small? Should I get a 24" tube rather?

Posted

Tried this today on a 26" but somehow forgot I'm supposed to use the tube of a smaller wheel :-( Couldn't figure out what to do with the tube that was very loose on the rim!! Want to try again, will a 20" tube be too small? Should I get a 24" tube rather?

I've used a 24 inch before but I would guess both would be fine.

Quick tip - inflate the tube before putting it on the wheel (saves a lot of struggling) and then deflate with it in place.

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