Pedals seized in cranks

[RichieT]

This is a great video tutorial on how to easily remove pedals without damaging the crank arms:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jD0vhR7SgZU&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DjD0vhR7SgZU&app=desktop

 

And if the pedals are seized try spraying some Q20 around the spindles and let it soak for a few hours before trying to remove them using the technique in the video above with a proper pedal spanner/wrench like this one as allen keys and shifting spanners don't work as well.

 

I cringed when he did the RHS.. those crank teeth were just begging for a meal... LOL

 

But that's not really a show of seized or difficult pedals.. it was all pre loosened

[MockTurtle]

sorry for bumping an old thread - but sheeesh i've been battling with this...

 

trying to remove spd's from generic suntour crank arm to change to flats... and i've tried everything...

 

i've removed the crank arm and fixed on bench vice, using a pipe for leverage...

 

so far:

 

1x pedal wrench... ruined

1x gedore 15mm open spanner... ruined

1x hex key - twisted like a piece of liquorice

 

soaked in penetrating oil... nada.... heated on gas stove. no go.

and yeah i'm turning the right way... its drive side so anti-clockwise, other side is off no problemo...

haven't rounded/stripped the pedal spindle yet... testament to spd indestructability. but dang. it doesn't even budge!

 

any ideas?

[Skylark]

Heat will release it , oxyacetylene or possibly an industrial heat gun at max temps.

Really does sound like you are going the wrong way though, good condition Gedore spanner with a pipe and the crank arm in a properly anchored vice has to undo a pedal, even if some monkey cross threaded it before.

[quintonb]

Probably the best option is a Pneumatic impact wrench from the back of the pedal axle using an Allen Key Socket. The corroded threads need to be "Shocked" in order for them to come loose.

Another option is to use a steel round-bar and hit the back side of the pedal over the Hex with a hammer.

 

The problem is Aluminium and steel don't go that well together in terms of corrosion. If and when you do get the pedal off use Copper Slip on all the threads, this will ensure that the aluminium from the crank wont corrode and around the Steel pedal threads.

Always use copper slip on any threads on a bicycle, especially if you live along coastal areas like I do.

[MockTurtle]

...i know right? first time i've rounded a gedore wrench ever! i've checked and re-checked the direction... all good.

but yeah cheers for the suggestion guys - but oxyacetylene, heat guns or impact wrenches are tools which i unfortunately don't have at my disposal

[quintonb]

...i know right? first time i've rounded a gedore wrench ever! i've checked and re-checked the direction... all good.

but yeah cheers for the suggestion guys - but oxyacetylene, heat guns or impact wrenches are tools which i unfortunately don't have at my disposal

Then give a hammer and a pin punch a try. Best to take the crank off and work on your work bench.

Try and get something firm and stable under the crank and give the back side of the pedal thread a few solid blows. It may just be enough to loosen the threads.

Chances are you will probably do some kind of damage to the actual crank surface, but either way you look at it that is probably inevitable.

[Bigmozzarella]

Been there.

Had to remove a pedal stuck in place for years.

Did it the day before the Argus.

 

Normally use an allen key / spanner - and get leverage.

This time we were stripping everything - incl the pedal.

And we tried Q20, a vice, leverage, hammer, everything.

we'd stripped the pedal, so had to file it down to a size 14

And obviously - paying attention to the fact that the thread is in the opposite direction.

 

But we got it off like this.

1. removed crank arms with pedals attached,.

2. heat up (on stove / blow torch) - hot enough that water sizzles and evapourates instantly.

Aluminium crank and the steel pedal heat up at different speeds and therefore expand at different rates.

4. attached the 14 spanner and whack with a hammer (not power/torque - hammer)

5. A couple of whacks and it was off.

 

We let it cool instead of dunking it in water.

Then greased the thread of the next pedal we replaced it with.

[Skylark]

I vote try the heating it on the gas stove again but this time make sure it gets radically hot, before that remove the pedal body from the shaft and then once hot, before you try loosen it, dip the shaft only in a container with ice and water. It has to come loose after that, even if the threads were corroded badly. Make sure the vice is stable and use the hammer technique mentioned above , that'll help break the seize.

[deanbean]

I've the same problem with an old engine I'm working on. The sump bolts are steel and alu block. All but 2 of the bolts(hex) are loose. Tried every thing but the big blow torch. That's next.

[V12man]

I've the same problem with an old engine I'm working on. The sump bolts are steel and alu block. All but 2 of the bolts(hex) are loose. Tried every thing but the big blow torch. That's next.

 

Perhaps try a spark eroder of the blow torch does not work?

[MockTurtle]

ended up taking the crank arm to my buddy's machine shop. success! they said it was easy peasy with pneumatic wrench. then again i had it already soaked in Q10... (okay i tell myself that rather than admit that just maybe i'm a klutz with spanners..)

[udxcob]

Last option, drill if out from behind

Edited April 13, 2014 by udxcob

[FC&P2C]

I eventually got my pedal of last week after the 15mm was stripped round. I filed the axel square to +-13.5mm. Then hack sawed about 4mm of the pedal casing giving me enough space to get a good quality Gedore shifting spanner in. It gripped and loosened. I was surprised to find the thread to be well oiled and no sign of rust or oxidation.

Edited April 14, 2014 by FC&P2C

[Skylark]

ended up taking the crank arm to my buddy's machine shop. success! they said it was easy peasy with pneumatic wrench. then again i had it already soaked in Q10... (okay i tell myself that rather than admit that just maybe i'm a klutz with spanners..)

 

Those pneumatic wrenches are amazing, great to hear it's finally out, what a relief!