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Posted

So here's my problem. About a year ago I bought a second hand bicycle with a set of Mavic SLR wheels. The previous owner did a ghetto repair on the rear wheel which I think was cracked. I've been riding with a tubeless setup on this wheel with absolutely zero issues.

 

Today I decided to replace the tyres with a new set of crossmarks and I am now unable to inflate the tyre more than 1 bar and the air and stans starts leaking out of the repair job.

 

I know the logical thing would be to replace the wheel but unfortunately its not financially viable. It looks pretty siff but I don't really care, I just want to ride my bike.

 

Now my question is, what would be a good product to use to repatch the rim?

 

Cheers

post-37356-0-09701300-1386795948_thumb.jpg

Posted

When in doubt ..

http://www.toolandhardware.co.za/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/p/bp080-bi-01.44.jpg

http://www.pratley.com/images/BulldozerChair.jpg

:whistling:

Posted

When in doubt ..

http://www.toolandhardware.co.za/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/p/bp080-bi-01.44.jpg

http://www.pratley.com/images/BulldozerChair.jpg

:whistling:

Best practice - new rim.

 

Bodge - inflate with the dodgy bit at the bottom so the sealant takes up the slack.

 

As per above ... if you have to do this on a shoe string budget then go Ghetto Tjoooblesss with a 20" tube.

Posted

As per above ... if you have to do this on a shoe string budget then go Ghetto Tjoooblesss with a 20" tube.

 

The SLR is a tubeless rim so shouldn't need ghetto.

 

If it's leaking then the rim is cracked.

Posted

The SLR is a tubeless rim so shouldn't need ghetto.

 

If it's leaking then the rim is cracked.

lol gums

 

The previous owner did a ghetto repair on the rear wheel which I think was cracked. I've been riding with a tubeless setup on this wheel with absolutely zero issues.

 

Today I decided to replace the tyres with a new set of crossmarks and I am now unable to inflate the tyre more than 1 bar and the air and stans starts leaking out of the repair job.

Posted (edited)

If the inside of the rim/bead is rough from the repair job, take some sand paper or a very fine file and try to smooth it out. Tires can mould around a ding or a dent but when the inside is rough the tire cannot seat properly and the air comes out. Even if the sealant where to seal it now, it might blow out later if its not smooth

 

Otherwise a new rim

Edited by camelman
Posted

Would Q-Bond also not be an option. With the granules that you add in it makes the joins pretty strong. It is quick and you can sand it down after...... Have never tried it on alu though.

There are some other products in motor-car shops used for repearing cracked sumps and so on - generally metal specfic glues.....

Posted

I did the repair yesterday with some pratleys and it is working nicely again. Went for a ride and held up perfectly. Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna just ride on this wheel until it decides to give up :-)

Posted

I did the repair yesterday with some pratleys and it is working nicely again. Went for a ride and held up perfectly. Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna just ride on this wheel until it decides to give up :-)

Good work! If that weld is even average then the wheel should hold up fine. It might just leak a bit of sealant and air past the rough edge where the tyre meets the rim.

 

I like that the decal was stuck over the weld :)

Posted

Would Q-Bond also not be an option. With the granules that you add in it makes the joins pretty strong. It is quick and you can sand it down after...... Have never tried it on alu though.

There are some other products in motor-car shops used for repearing cracked sumps and so on - generally metal specfic glues.....

Q bond better for rubber/plastics.

Posted

 

Good work! If that weld is even average then the wheel should hold up fine. It might just leak a bit of sealant and air past the rough edge where the tyre meets the rim.

 

I like that the decal was stuck over the weld :)

 

The previous guy actually did the weld over the sticker, I think he must have used the same pratleys that I did. It's the wonda fix high strength flexible which is slightly see through.

 

I've put the wheel in some water and it's airtight so I'm pretty stoked ...

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