Chain dropping with Shadow plus and RF n/w.

[Flowta]

 

 

worked in what way? what's your basis for comparison?

 

I would say he means it worked in that he hasn't dropped a chain.

 

[Capricorn]

*sigh* smh.

Edited May 17, 2014 by Capricorn

[Flowta]

*sigh* smh.

 

?Huh?

[Skylark]

Had issues with a Race Face NW with a Zee derailure this past weekend on the Ndiza. Ended up putting the chain guide back on. My Zee RD definitely has less friction than the SRAM type 2 and I think this was the issue in my case. I know you can up the friction on the Zee's but I just never had time to figure it out. That said I think I may just revert back to a full guide or at least a top guide for complete peace of mind in future.

 

Easy to adjust(on the Xt it is, zee must be virtually the same clutch mech)and you do need to as it wears over time, basically a hoop of spring steel around a cam like thing and that stops the cage from flicking all over the place, the tighter the hoop is the less easily the cage can move/flick and hence less chain drops. If the clutch isn't adjusted properly your rd will behave as if it had no clutch.

Edited May 17, 2014 by Skylark

[milky4130]

I too have this issue turns out my chain is too long. Will need to shorten it by 1 or 2 links.

[Li Mu Bai]

I have complained before re dropped chains with my 1x10 set up. Its just got much worse which is strange because I rode and enduro without any problems last weekend.

 

I have started thinking about other options -

 

1. a short cage Zee derailleur

2. Csixx direct mount chain guide and

3 - a clutch service.

 

Apparently Shimano use a special friction grease in the clutch. All good options but in all three cases I cannot do anything yet becuase:

 

The Zees are only due in in July

Csixx has no stock with no ETA

Shimano agents have no grease

 

Do we live in a backwater or what? No wonder we go online. I can get a Zee here for less in a week from CRC.

 

As for the grease - any ideas on a replacement product. I must admit I am dubious about this fix...

Med cage clutch deraileur will add tension to the system. w/n chainring is a must. Are you riding your 1x10 setup on a hardtail? this added bouncing does add to chain drop in my experience.

Your best bet is a chain keeper on the front too. Csix is ok but expensive for what it is. options available at crc.

Grease wont make much difference.

what i also noticed was a bad riding habbit, in that when riding in the smallest sprocket, the chain could get pulled off the chainring by pedalling backwards to level of the pedals, due to the angle of the chainline and lack of overall tension in the system, something to be aware of and minimise if you can.

Chainlength depends on the bike size too. Big frames, may need slightly longer chains. What you need to set yours to, it when in the smallest sprocket (10 or 11) the chain is at it slackest and the deraileur at it most coiled. there should just be enough tension in the system/spring to stop the chain from rubbing against itself as it passes through the deraileur when turning the crank. I always get this wrong with a chain that is too short and have to splice in an extra link. too short a chain puts too much tension on the deraileur when its riding the bail-out gear 42tor 40t. When engaged on this large sprocket, the deraileur shouldnt be pulled past 45 degrees (the 4-o-clock position).

Also, dont clean your chain too much a sticky chain does stay on better than a sparkly clean one.

 

my current setup - No chain drops yet:

SC Tallboy:

XX1 crank + 32t

Sram X9 RD Type 2

Shimano XT 11-36 cassette

Woolftooth 42 bailout sprocket

 

On*One Lurcher:

Sram 2200 crank

34t Absolute Black Chainring 104 BCD w/n

Sram X9 RD Type 2

Sram 1070 11/36 cassette

OneUp 42t bailout sprocket

Edited May 18, 2014 by Li Mu Bai

[Rei]

worked in what way? what's your basis for comparison?

 

Yes as in I have not dropped a chain since the conversion, as that is the topic of this thread.

 

In addition, I have not snapped any chain links due to too much chain tension, gear changes are smooth, chain does not slip, derailleur has not given any problems. Drive train runs smoothly and I am happy with the performance. Not sure what else you would like?

[Alouette3]

As Porqui said my clutch retainer snapped, in which case you will feel no friction, it will feel like a normal derailleur with just a spring. (Mine was repaired under warranty by shimano)

 

If you open up the clutch there is a set screw which allows you to set the amount of friction, check that it is screwed in all the way, ie max friction.

 

As for the grease anything will do, it's just there to reduce the metal on metal wear. We are often just scafted for a brand name. It's not like replacing a shock oil where the viscosity and mineral make up has abig influence.

Edited May 18, 2014 by Alouette3

[Skylark]

I personally wouldn't tighten the tension screw to max tension, maybe that's why your first one broke, also makes it noticeably harder to shift up.

You just need to adjust the tension to the point where under your hardest riding conditions, ie the bike bouncing around as a result of rough terrain or getting some air, the chain slap is reduced to the minimum you require. Stock tension which is not all the way tightened was too much I loosened it up a bit and only if I really hammer it hard do I get slight chain slap. I'm not running NW but the same principle applies setting it to reduce chain drop, just play around a bit with the tension till you have no chain drop.

Edited May 19, 2014 by Skylark

[Headshot]

Agree with the comments re the bent or broken goodie in the clutch itself. The cam/switch mounting bracket bends and cracks. Mine is on its way out. Its a bit flimsy IMO.

 

In say 9th gear its very easy to overcome the clutch by tugging on the chain. Far harder to do if in first gear. I will take 2 links out and see what happens...

[Capricorn]

Yes as in I have not dropped a chain since the conversion, as that is the topic of this thread.

 

In addition, I have not snapped any chain links due to too much chain tension, gear changes are smooth, chain does not slip, derailleur has not given any problems. Drive train runs smoothly and I am happy with the performance. Not sure what else you would like?

 

i thought you had started decreasing chainlinks to reach your state of single ring nirvana. I had hoped you weren't comparing it to a triple or double ring setup would not be a good basis for comparison.

 

anyway, the OP found the problem.

Edited May 19, 2014 by Capricorn