2 X 10 crankset options

[cadenceblur]

Hi guys

 

Hopefully someone can assist. I have seen topics on this before but I can't seem to find it, so here goes.

 

I'm planning on changing from a triple to a double crankset, currently running 42/32/24 with an 11-36 at the back.

 

I have three options :

Will not be changing the cassette...

 

38/24

40/28

38/26

 

I am not a string bean, so I'm leaning towards the 38/24 as a safe option, is this the best route? I don't want to find myself in a situation where I need gears that aren't there, but also want to improve strength, if that makes sense.

 

OR should I just take the 38/26?

[JXV]

How often are you using the 24 ring on your 3x system? I found that all it took was a determination not to use it. Within a few months of occasionally standing up to push hard in a bigger gear, my legs got stronger and soon I was only using 42t on my local trails. Some of my friends the same.

Next question, what size wheels are you riding and what style of riding?

If 26" then 40/28 should be OK. Anything shorter than 40 will irritate you on the flats but if you only ride rough twisty singletrack you could go shorter.

If 27.5 I'd choose between 38/26 and 40/28

If 29er then 38/24 or maybe 38/26.

Edited July 30, 2014 by JXV

[cadenceblur]

I'd say quite often, but could use the 34 though, just being lazy, I guess. I ride a 29er.

[JXV]

I have 38/26 on my new 29er with 11-36 cassette. It is slightly harder on steep stuff than the 3x9 XT drivetrain on my old 26" bike but a bit more riding will soon sort that out.

[Dicky DQ]

I did this a while ago. I had 22/32/42 and changed to 24/36.

 

I prefer the ratios presented by the 36, but I run out of revs on the to end in certain circumstances. I would consider the 38 when these ones are toast. however I may miss the ratios.

 

In that case, wait for it i am going to go back to 3 x 10 and go with 24/36/42. the 42 is just to get a bit of top end for races like the 100 Miler and the Trans Bviaans, and Karoo to Coast where there are long stretches of downhill or slight declines. I really run out of revs at about 47km/hr after a while at the moment. then again the 38 may help.

 

After all is said and done I am so over the weight issue. I still weight almost 20kg over my racing weight so a few 100g is not going to make a huge difference.

 

PS. I had an issue with spaces and chain-rings when changing from 3 x 10 to 2 x 10. Make sure you get the correct ones. I am still using my 3 x 10 cranks so I had no additional costs as the chain-rings were toast anyway.

[The MTBer]

I am running 26/39 on my SRAM crankset and a 12/36 cassette on my 29. I am topping out at around 55/60kph and when it is wide open with no climds I sometimes wonder it the 39T is good but when I enter the woods I realise why I have the 39T. When it is time for a new cassette I will take the 11/36 or even smaller.

[Spoke101]

38/26

[cadenceblur]

Mmmm, maybe I should just get the 38 /26...

Decisions, decisions.

[cadenceblur]

Also, having done some reading, I see that I don't necessarily need to get a complete crankset?

I've read that I can just remove the chain rings and make adjustments to the front Derailleur limit screws... Anyone do this?

Or is it safer to just get a new crank and front Derailleur?

[KevinHow]

it is a no brainer - 38/26T. (just remember the M980 Trail is 38/26T and the M985 Race come's in 40/28T, 42/30T, and so on). 80% of mtber's Worldwide prefer the Trail with 38/26T

[V12man]

Use sheldon browns gear ratio calculator to see your speed at 90rpm in the lowest and highest gears possible for the alternatives and then decide based on your normal riding area.

 

I use 24/38 and its rare to spin it out, although a couple of times I have wished for a 22 mid Epic...

 

my next bike will have 2 x 11 on it - 40-11 cluster and 24/38 chainrings or possibly 26/40....