How freely do your Hope rear hubs spin?

[GoLefty!!]

Injecting a bit of grease into a bearing and then putting the seal back on makes nothing messy or a magnet for anything.

The grease is all safely behind the seal inside the bearing and I have yet to see a rubber seal become worn out unless it's donkeys years old or suffered physical damage.

 

Servicing bearings is preventative maintenance not magic, a worn out rough bearing is toast so you bin it and put another one but if it's still good you clean it out and pack in some good grease/lube. Packing a bit extra(within reason) or just better better quality Teflon or whatever grease into new bearing helps keeps things running smoother for longer. Specifically on the headset and BB bearings I service those anytime I take the crank or fork out , they are the bearings I have found most susceptible to getting contaminated.

 

It's not about right or wrong, choose what works for you and do that but there is no issue with opening bearings to add grease or service them. For some people incl the lbs it's less hassle just to roll with whatever grease a new bearing is supplied with and chuck bearings whenever they get contaminated.

 

 

Well there is a right or wrong when it comes to servicing bearings and what you describe is wrong. removing the seal and repacking is a waste of time.

Firstly, the seal is designed to keep oil inside and not the dirt out. By the time youhave dirt in the bearing the wear has already accelerated. No amountof repacking is going to rejuvenate the bearing race. Our hubs use industrial bearings, they're fit forget and throw away when done, refit new.

 

Yes there are a lot of googlelators repacking these bearings and it seems they have nothing better to do. Since these bearings are designed to be replaced, the correct practice (i.e. the right thing to do) is too replace them.

 

But moer ma on.

[Wyatt Earp]

Well there is a right or wrong when it comes to servicing bearings and what you describe is wrong. removing the seal and repacking is a waste of time.

Firstly, the seal is designed to keep oil inside and not the dirt out. By the time youhave dirt in the bearing the wear has already accelerated. No amountof repacking is going to rejuvenate the bearing race. Our hubs use industrial bearings, they're fit forget and throw away when done, refit new.

 

Yes there are a lot of googlelators repacking these bearings and it seems they have nothing better to do. Since these bearings are designed to be replaced, the correct practice (i.e. the right thing to do) is too replace them.

 

But moer ma on.

 

In a nutshell :thumbup:

[Skylark]

 

 

Well there is a right or wrong when it comes to servicing bearings and what you describe is wrong. removing the seal and repacking is a waste of time.

Firstly, the seal is designed to keep oil inside and not the dirt out. By the time youhave dirt in the bearing the wear has already accelerated. No amountof repacking is going to rejuvenate the bearing race. Our hubs use industrial bearings, they're fit forget and throw away when done, refit new.

 

Yes there are a lot of googlelators repacking these bearings and it seems they have nothing better to do. Since these bearings are designed to be replaced, the correct practice (i.e. the right thing to do) is too replace them.

 

But moer ma on.

 

Bearing manufacturers specify removing the seals and servicing bearings on their spec sheets and any industry that uses sealed bearings with removable seals will typically re grease them periodically. And in an mtb situation dirt isn't the only reason bearings get repacked, water ingress if caught soon enough and the grease replaced will keep a bearing in tip top condition. Especially if you are using expensive stainless steel bearings you'll most definitely want to open the seals and repack the bearings after water ingress, to do otherwise would be ludicrous.

 

And flogging a dead horse but the amount and type of grease supplied with a new bearing is not optimal for low rpm wet muddy mtb conditions. For instance the average mtb wheel hub bearings is typically designed for max speeds of 12,000 - 24,000rpm, bearing manufacturers can't supply them with much grease because if used at that speed it'll all come flying out. They also don't use grease ideal for damp muddy conditions where we ride nor would they use any expensive high performance greases, something some people choose to use. If you want to use say Phil Woods over priced but good quality waterproof grease in your bearings the only way it's getting in there is by taking the seals off.

 

Ridiculous debate, you don't smaak opening bearing seals, fine your choice but it's not wrong to do so. Logic dictates the extra effort will reward you in the long run, some don't care for the extra effort they'd rather replace, no problem suit yourself.

[Wyatt Earp]

 

 

Ridiculous debate, you don't smaak opening bearing seals, fine your choice but it's not wrong to do so. Logic dictates the extra effort will reward you in the long run, some don't care for the extra effort they'd rather replace, no problem suit yourself.

 

It's not a bout smaaking it or not, it's about experience and some know how on mechanical things and how they operate.

Bearings is not your strong point, alas I have no idea why are bothering in the first place, you have the rope.

[rouxtjie]

Bearing manufacturers specify removing the seals and servicing bearings on their spec sheets and any industry that uses sealed bearings with removable seals will typically re grease them periodically. And in an mtb situation dirt isn't the only reason bearings get repacked, water ingress if caught soon enough and the grease replaced will keep a bearing in tip top condition. Especially if you are using expensive stainless steel bearings you'll most definitely want to open the seals and repack the bearings after water ingress, to do otherwise would be ludicrous.

 

And flogging a dead horse but the amount and type of grease supplied with a new bearing is not optimal for low rpm wet muddy mtb conditions. For instance the average mtb wheel hub bearings is typically designed for max speeds of 12,000 - 24,000rpm, bearing manufacturers can't supply them with much grease because if used at that speed it'll all come flying out. They also don't use grease ideal for damp muddy conditions where we ride nor would they use any expensive high performance greases, something some people choose to use. If you want to use say Phil Woods over priced but good quality waterproof grease in your bearings the only way it's getting in there is by taking the seals off.

 

Ridiculous debate, you don't smaak opening bearing seals, fine your choice but it's not wrong to do so. Logic dictates the extra effort will reward you in the long run, some don't care for the extra effort they'd rather replace, no problem suit yourself.

dude....your first post:

 

"I did get carried away filling the bearings with grease, I noticed that added quite a lot of resistance.

Is this normal for a Hope rear hub or have I got something wrong?"

 

We told you why you shouldn't do it over and above the fact that it does tokol ito extending the life of the bearing, yet you want to now argue as to why you need the extra grease...yet your wheel isnt spinning as freely as you would expect after the additional grease....so even IF it did extend the life by a little, surely a smoother spinning wheel is more favourable.

 

Now you have two options..

 

1.Ride the blerrie wheel that isnt spinning as nice...aka moenie moan nie, eet jou kaas en jou polony

2.Take the advice here, chuck those compromised bearings and fit brand new ones without fiddling with their seals and enjoy miles of ever lasting spinning wheels

 

Your problem....your call.

[Skylark]

Address the facts of bearing engineering and common sense preventative maintenance folks, pointless trying to base your argument on an acknowledged mistake. I said I discovered that I overfilled the grease on the rear, the key word being "overfilled". In that instance I took it to the other extreme, too much, I hope you understand that differentiation. Realized that after putting the rear hub back together, so I used a lighter hand when doing the grease on the front and it spins as expected and with the added benefit of a better protected bearing. Glad I did it and will do it again, the benefit cost me very little in time and money. Ordered some Phil Wood waterproof grease, looking forward to using it in all the sealed bearings on my bike.

[JXV]

Rode my Maverick ML7.2 since 2003, averaging 2000km a year. Front wheel bearings replaced for the 1st time early this year. I never serviced them in all that time. The XT ball and cone bearings in my rear hub needed more regular attention. The suspension pivot bearings have now been replaced about 3 times. They wear faster, I'm guessing because higher impact loads and only part rotation.

 

The point I am making is that the standard fit-and-forget cartridge bearings are so cheap and last so well that IMO it is not worth taking the trouble to interfere with them....but nothing stopping you if you choose to...

Edited September 3, 2014 by JXV

[Super_mil]

What's the feeling then with Chris King bearings (headset & BB in particular) where regreasing of the sealed bearings forms part of normal maintenance (as per the CK manual)?

[Wyatt Earp]

What's the feeling then with Chris King bearings (headset & BB in particular) where regreasing of the sealed bearings forms part of normal maintenance (as per the CK manual)?

 

Firstly their bearings are not your regular run of the mill stuff.

All manufactured in house to extremely high standards and they don't run rubber seals.

Secondly, I yet have to see where they recommend a re-grease of their headset bearings, I have 4 of them on various bikes.

With Chris King you get what you pay for, that is why the stuff costs such big moolah.

[Super_mil]

Check out the CK website... While i agree that the bearings may be of higher quality the process and the description of regreasing the CK bearings is identical to what Skylark described. The only difference is the CK bearings have a steel outer with the rubber seal attached to this, which still needs to be lifted off with a pick or similar. While the CK BB had a regreasing tool there is also a description should you not have the tool.

CK seem think that regreasing bearings prolong their life...

[G00SE]

Check out the CK website... While i agree that the bearings may be of higher quality the process and the description of regreasing the CK bearings is identical to what Skylark described. The only difference is the CK bearings have a steel outer with the rubber seal attached to this, which still needs to be lifted off with a pick or similar. While the CK BB had a regreasing tool there is also a description should you not have the tool.

CK seem think that regreasing bearings prolong their life...

 

You're wasting your time...

[rouxtjie]

Check out the CK website... While i agree that the bearings may be of higher quality the process and the description of regreasing the CK bearings is identical to what Skylark described. The only difference is the CK bearings have a steel outer with the rubber seal attached to this, which still needs to be lifted off with a pick or similar. While the CK BB had a regreasing tool there is also a description should you not have the tool.

CK seem think that regreasing bearings prolong their life...

See the key is CK bearings are designed to be re-greased / serviced. The bearings in hope hubs arent. By compromising the seal with the picking and prodding you will do more harm than good with the bearings in question.

[Skylark]

Firstly their bearings are not your regular run of the mill stuff.

All manufactured in house to extremely high standards and they don't run rubber seals.

Secondly, I yet have to see where they recommend a re-grease of their headset bearings, I have 4 of them on various bikes.

With Chris King you get what you pay for, that is why the stuff costs such big moolah.

 

You can buy bearings from SKF at Chris King levels of precision if not surpassing them, they cost a small fortune though. Zero engineering difference between a sealed and open cage bearing, other than the seal.

 

Would have expected you to be fully clued up in Chris King stuff, especially seeing as you have 4 of them on various bikes and you say the headsets shouldn't be regreased:

 

https://chrisking.com/tech/tech_headsets

Edited September 3, 2014 by Skylark

[G00SE]

pinkbike seem to think there is some value in repacking your bearings....

 

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Service-and-Re-Grease-a-Cartridge-Bearing-Headset.html

[Super_mil]

 

 

You're wasting your time...

While I probably am, my post(s) are just there to show (others) that one of the industry leaders suggests that regreasing bearings will prolong their life.

[rouxtjie]

You can buy bearings from SKF at Chris King levels of precision if not surpassing them, they cost a small fortune though. Zero engineering difference between a sealed and open cage bearing, other than the seal.

 

Would have expected you to be fully clued up in Chris King stuff, especially seeing as you have 4 of them on various bikes and you say the headsets shouldn't be regreased:

 

https://chrisking.co...h/tech_headsets

And for someone that buys into "waterproof grease" snakeoil label, you might need to dig a bit deeper in the google machine since its your favourite consumable