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Rock Shock 29er.. Wheel not center..


The Riding Realtor

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Posted

I have a Scott 29er, with Rock Shock Forks.  I noticed that my wheel pulls towards the left whenever I apply brakes? Disk Brakes. 

 

Also, it seems as if it also not sits center. Maybe a few mm to the left in general. 

 

Any ideas as to what would cause this? Bearings still feel good.

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Posted

Check the dish and spoke tension on the front wheel first.

 

If that's fine, it may be the lowers that are skew from hitting something big while locked out. The agents will sort it out for you, or if it's out of warranty I can also do it.

Posted

Aah.. OK!

 

Bike is out of Warranty. I am up in Durbanville, so I guess CWC or CycleFunatic for me then. 

 

I am pretty new to bicycle maintenance. This is my first "real" mtb. Before this I used to be on the GAME jobbies. I bought my bike 2nd hand. 

 

So, by saying, have the dishing checked, is it something I can do at home this afternoon? I btw, don't know what the dishing is... And spoke tension, start by feeling if there are loose ones? 

 

The wheel doesn't seem to buckle, just pulls left when I apply brakes, and then a general lean towards the left..

Posted

I have a Scott 29er, with Rock Shock Forks.  I noticed that my wheel pulls towards the left whenever I apply brakes? Disk Brakes. 

 

Also, it seems as if it also not sits center. Maybe a few mm to the left in general. 

 

Any ideas as to what would cause this? Bearings still feel good.

 

when you ride, dos it feel like you're bike is leaning to one side but the front wheel is 90 degrees with the road or only when you apply brakes?

Posted

For the wheel to pull to one side under braking the spoke tension will have to be pretty low, but if you don't know what proper tension feels like it won't really help.

 

Dishing refers to the centring of the rim relative to the hub and can only be checked with a dish stick or a truing stand.

 

The easiest would be to take it to a bike shop with a decent wheel builder. 

Posted

Maybe it's something far simpler - like the wheel not being secured right into the QR brackets (if it's QR) and that allows flex.  Might be a ten second fix.

Posted

got nothing to do with the shock or your bearings.  disc brakes by design cause a massive force on the one side of the wheel only, hence the deflection that you see when you brake.  New forks use different casting thicknesses for the left and right lowers to counter this.

 

the wheel not running centre is because your spokes are not set right.  need to get them dished.

Posted

Its got nothing to do with the disc being on one side of the wheel either. Its got everything to do with the tyre tread being off centre from the headset/steerer tube axis. .....and this likely because the wheel dishing is wrong or the hub not centred properly between the fork legs.

Provided the fork is not bent or damaged then the tyre tread centreline should line up EXACTLY with the steerer tube.

 

If dishing is OK then look at the hub. Some of the older qr hubs with cone + ball bearing hubs you can shift the hub to one side or the other depending where you lock the cones on the axle.

Posted

Maybe it's something far simpler - like the wheel not being secured right into the QR brackets (if it's QR) and that allows flex.  Might be a ten second fix.

 

Could be... make sure the wheel's properly seated and the skewer's tight enough.

 

got nothing to do with the shock or your bearings.  disc brakes by design cause a massive force on the one side of the wheel only, hence the deflection that you see when you brake.  New forks use different casting thicknesses for the left and right lowers to counter this.

 

the wheel not running centre is because your spokes are not set right.  need to get them dished.

 

It can definitely be the fork if the arch is bent. I've seen it happen, as per my first post.

 

Its got nothing to do with the disc being on one side of the wheel either. Its got everything to do with the tyre tread being off centre from the headset/steerer tube axis. .....and this likely because the wheel dishing is wrong or the hub not centred properly between the fork legs.

Provided the fork is not bent or damaged then the tyre tread centreline should line up EXACTLY with the steerer tube.

 

If dishing is OK then look at the hub. Some of the older qr hubs with cone + ball bearing hubs you can shift the hub to one side or the other depending where you lock the cones on the axle.

 

It can have everything to do with the disc if the spoke tension's too low or the wheel's laced wrong.

 

The hub will do nothing to the dish unless you've assembled it wrong. All that can move is the axle, which won't affect this at all.

Posted

had the same thing on a 29er spark

 

are you usung the a qr?

the one that came with the bike?

shimano qr will done up tight will help a lot

 

after that I got a 20mm thru axle, problem is gone completly now

 

the wheel being to one side is dishing, I checked that and it did not seem to fix the brake twist issue.

 

same story with a couple of other bikes I've worked on, anything other than an internal cam qr and its jelly

Posted

It can have everything to do with the disc if the spoke tension's too low or the wheel's laced wrong.

 

 

This implies that if the disc was on the other side of the same wheel it would pull the other way? Sorry...disagree. If the spoke tension is wrong the rim will 'warp' away from the side with the loose spokes. Disc position irrelevant.

 

If disc position was causing bikes to pull to one side then all bikes would do it to some extent - none of mine ever have!

 

ONLY way for a braked wheel to impart torque to the steerer tube (thus pulling the bike off line) is if the tyre's contact patch is off centre to one or other side of the steerer axis so :

- dish or uneven spoke tension or lacing causes wheel rim to warp away from centre under braking forces or it is offline all the time

- fork or axle is bent so that tyre contact patch is off centre of the fork/steerer

- hub displaced to one or other side so tyre not rotating centrally between fork legs

- leaning hard in a corner ( or off-camber trail) so the tyre contact patch is not centralised on the tyre tread

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