droo Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 Hey Droo. Why with a ruler and not a chain checker? Might be a sill question and sorry for the hijack.. Not a dumb question at all. There's a dissertation in the sticky on chains and gears called "Everything you will ever need to know about bicycle chains" where it's explained. Basically a chain checker measures war on the rollers, which is a useless piece of information. A ruler measures actual elongation, which is what you need to know.
GoLefty!! Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 Hey hubbers, time for a new chain on the MTB, what chain would you recommend for the Epic, i love the gold KMC, but the bling might not be the right call for the Epic thanks!! 3 of the cheapest quality chains that fit.
W@nna-BE Posted February 4, 2015 Author Posted February 4, 2015 because if you had been doing the mileage required to ride the Epic comfortably, you would have been through a couple of chains by now and would have had a better feel for which chain worked for you. Just pack a few spare links and quick links in for the raceok i see, but who knows how many times i have replaced the chain, its the exact reason why i am asking because the previous chains have not lasted long. i dont think anyone will be able to do the Cape Epic comfortably ha ha ha thanks for the advice, i will definitely be taking spare links and quick links with
V12man Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 I think you need 2 chains - less than 100km on a chain at the start, and then change it to a new one after day 4, or if you have any issues. SRAM 1071's have worked for me.
W@nna-BE Posted February 4, 2015 Author Posted February 4, 2015 I think you need 2 chains - less than 100km on a chain at the start, and then change it to a new one after day 4, or if you have any issues. SRAM 1071's have worked for me.thanks V12man
GoLefty!! Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 There's a dissertation in the sticky on chains and gears called "Everything you will ever need to know about bicycle chains" where it's explained. Basically a chain checker measures war on the rollers, which is a useless piece of information. A ruler measures actual elongation, which is what you need to know. actually they're doing the same thing.The centre links hang off the pins and rollers. If there is wear there then it will show up on the ruler as well as the chain checker.BTW, wear on the rller also changes the chains ability to mesh with the gear teeth. All bad if worn excessivvely.Hence I neer buy expensive chains, SRAM 1051 is good enough. Its nickel plated and cheap
droo Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 thanks for the advice Droo, not touchy just annoying when hubbers feel the need to get smart You'll get an ulcer pretty quickly if you start stressing about that, bud...
droo Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 actually they're doing the same thing.The centre links hang off the pins and rollers. If there is wear there then it will show up on the ruler as well as the chain checker.BTW, wear on the rller also changes the chains ability to mesh with the gear teeth. All bad if worn excessivvely.Hence I neer buy expensive chains, SRAM 1051 is good enough. Its nickel plated and cheap The difference is that if the rollers are worn on the inside it'll show up in the chain checker as a double reading, which can cause you to bin a chain too early. On the flip side, dirt in the rollers can give you an under read so you toss your entire drivetrain because the chain is more worn than it looks. Chain checkers do work, but a direct measurement of pitch is more accurate. IMO of course.
Robrider Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 Er, am I missing something. This is not very technical. A chain is pretty much a chain. Some have fancy coatings which help with rust, some don't. Make sure its new for the race (but as always, do a test ride or two just in case). You really don't need to change mid way through a race, or measure it. A chain won't be worn out after 450km. Clean and lube it properly. That is all.
droo Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 Er, am I missing something. This is not very technical. A chain is pretty much a chain. Some have fancy coatings which help with rust, some don't. Make sure its new for the race (but as always, do a test ride or two just in case). You really don't need to change mid way through a race, or measure it. A chain won't be worn out after 450km. Clean and lube it properly. That is all. You can quite easily wear a chain out on the Epic. Same as you can go through a set of brake pads in a day. Mud is amazing stuff.
W@nna-BE Posted February 4, 2015 Author Posted February 4, 2015 You'll get an ulcer pretty quickly if you start stressing about that, bud... lol so true, i blame the training, the 3:30 rides make me cranky, no wait the rides make me happy, the lack of sleep makes me cranky so apologies to Shebeen
banna Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 You can quite easily wear a chain out on the Epic. Same as you can go through a set of brake pads in a day. Mud is amazing stuff.The man speaks the truth.
Eldron Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 Whaaaaat? Its the epic not a trancontinental challenge. 1 x Shimano XT chain will do the trick. Anything lower than XT rusts and looks ***. XT is chiny chiny. Use metal pads and the above chain and you'll need only set for the whole race.
V12man Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 The difference is that if the rollers are worn on the inside it'll show up in the chain checker as a double reading, which can cause you to bin a chain too early. On the flip side, dirt in the rollers can give you an under read so you toss your entire drivetrain because the chain is more worn than it looks. Chain checkers do work, but a direct measurement of pitch is more accurate. IMO of course.You are correct in measuring the length with a ruler, BUT - The Epic is all about risk minimisation - so that's why I say to change the chain early - even if it's not showing as worn yet - change it anyway..... breaking a chain could result in a very long run - or worse.... especially if it breaks something else on the bike at the same time. If it's not worn, it can always go back on the bike after epic... so it's not wasted completely.
Eldron Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 You are correct in measuring the length with a ruler, BUT - The Epic is all about risk minimisation - so that's why I say to change the chain early - even if it's not showing as worn yet - change it anyway..... breaking a chain could result in a very long run - or worse.... especially if it breaks something else on the bike at the same time. If it's not worn, it can always go back on the bike after epic... so it's not wasted completely.I'd say changing a chain is a bigger risk than using 1 the whole way. In my experience 99% of chains break from poor fitment rather than wear.
V12man Posted February 4, 2015 Posted February 4, 2015 Use metal pads and the above chain and you'll need only set for the whole race.That's only a maybe.... 1 day of rain and mud and the rules change.... Chains are cheap relative to the total cost of an epic effort - as are brake pads... We have a simple rule - NEVER start the day with any piece of equipment that is marginal - bite the bullet and swap it out as quickly as possible once you know it is marginal. Mud days - start with new pads..... you might have enough to make it to the end without reverting to spares halfway.... My best use of metallic pads is 40km.... from brand new to metal on metal - thanks to a muddy hill to hill ride... just scraped home with them.... And I have broken a chain on the last day of the Epic - the bruise from the nose of the saddle was substantial... lucky it was the last day, but it could have ruined it easily....
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