Odinson Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Hi, guys. I've got a quick question. I've recently bought a RS SID RL with remote lockout. The remote I got with the fork is the PushLoc Sprint. What I've noticed now is that the lever has virtually no "springiness" - in other words, when I press the lever, it doesn't pop out. The cable actuates and turns the remote lockout switch on the crown, but only about 5-8mm of movement occurs. This doesn't seem right. To my understanding, the lever should have a spring-like actuation and there should be more movement of the remote lockout switch on the crown. The fork still locks-out, though. What I've also noticed is that I hardly ever get full travel on my fork. I know the SID is designed to be stiff and not blow through its travel, but even with big drops and rough terrain I only use about 50-60mm of travel. Is the issue with the remote lockout and fork travel maybe related? Any help would be appreciated!
V12man Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Hi, guys. I've got a quick question. I've recently bought a RS SID RL with remote lockout. The remote I got with the fork is the PushLoc Sprint. images.jpg What I've noticed now is that the lever has virtually no "springiness" - in other words, when I press the lever, it doesn't pop out. The cable actuates and turns the remote lockout switch on the crown, but only about 5-8mm of movement occurs. This doesn't seem right. To my understanding, the lever should have a spring-like actuation and there should be more movement of the remote lockout switch on the crown. The fork still locks-out, though. What I've also noticed is that I hardly ever get full travel on my fork. I know the SID is designed to be stiff and not blow through its travel, but even with big drops and rough terrain I only use about 50-60mm of travel. Is the issue with the remote lockout and fork travel maybe related? Any help would be appreciated!What air pressures are you running - remember that if fork is a dual air - so you need to pump the 2 chambers separately.
Odinson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Posted April 13, 2015 It's a Solo Air. I'm running about 95psi, which is exactly in the range of RS' recommended pressure for my weight. I've actually dropped the pressure by about 10psi, to see if it made any difference.
Amberdrake Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Cable gunk? Every time i read past these posts there is cable dirt mentioned. I would clean/replace that first. (If its hydraulic ill put on my burn suit now )
Odinson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Posted April 13, 2015 Could be, but it has been that way since day one. I'm most bothered by the lack of "springiness" (for a lack of a better word) and the minimal movement of the dial.
V12man Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 It's a Solo Air. I'm running about 95psi, which is exactly in the range of RS' recommended pressure for my weight. I've actually dropped the pressure by about 10psi, to see if it made any difference. I have a dual air RL in my set of spares - will have a feel of the poplock tonight for you - but I suspect you are not getting full release/activation of the shock - maybe..... it should be clear as daylight if it works or not.
Odinson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Posted April 13, 2015 I have a dual air RL in my set of spares - will have a feel of the poplock tonight for you - but I suspect you are not getting full release/activation of the shock - maybe..... it should be clear as daylight if it works or not. Thanks, Doc. I suspect you might be right. I have about 50mm of travel, before it ramps up like crazy. I've even let all of the air out of the chamber and was able to get the fork to go through its travel, but I had to put a lot of my weight on the fork to make it happen.
V12man Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 I've even let all of the air out of the chamber and was able to get the fork to go through its travel, but I had to put a lot of my weight on the fork to make it happen. That does not sound right - ping Droo... Maybe check your shock pump against a different one too.. just in case
droo Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Those remotes are one of my least favourite of Rockshox's inventions. Get water anywhere near them and they're good as dead. Take the money you would otherwise spend on a new remote and put it towards a damper with a manual compression dial on it. You'll never look back.
NixM Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 I replaced mine with a lever remote that has one button to lock and one to unlock, have not had a problem since.
BMXER Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 I have no issue with mine, the lock and open are reversed to previous models making the operation of the lever perfect.
Featherbrew Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 I had the same issue with the pushloc that came with my bike new and a RS Recon air fork. Only when the pushloc gave out & I replaced it with a Suntour one (different design) did I realise I never had full use of the fork travel before.
Odinson Posted April 13, 2015 Author Posted April 13, 2015 So, is my only option to buy a different remote? Feather, where did you buy the Suntour remote?
Featherbrew Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 Bruce's cycles on the West Rand fitted it for me. It's this one. It works wrong way round on a RS (lock = unlock) but its been bomb proof since it was fitted 6 months ago.
PhilipV Posted April 13, 2015 Posted April 13, 2015 I've ditched two of the RS cable remotes. They are absolutely terrible.
droo Posted April 14, 2015 Posted April 14, 2015 Bruce's cycles on the West Rand fitted it for me. It's this one. It works wrong way round on a RS (lock = unlock) but its been bomb proof since it was fitted 6 months ago. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428948580.254999.jpg Will definitely be ordering a few of these then... probably a tenth of the price of the RS one too.
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