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wheelset choice


Slowbee

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Posted

Can't comment on those wheels, but wheels are the best upgrade.

 

Some things I'd look at:

 

  • Rims wider than 20mm (for better traction, ability to run lower pressures) and tubeless ready inner profile
  • Quality hubs that are easy to service.
  • J-bend spokes for ease of maintenance (My personal hate is expensive straight-pull spokes)

 

So something like WTB KOM i23 rims on Hope hubs built with double butted spokes and brass nipples.

Posted

i took her bike for a ride. there seems to be a big delay in when you put pressure on the crank from a standing start to the actually hub engaging (or is that cog). But it just does not seem good. 

 

warranty? sounds like a faulty freewheel body. (but I'm no expert)

Posted

i took her bike for a ride. there seems to be a big delay in when you put pressure on the crank from a standing start to the actually hub engaging (or is that cog). But it just does not seem good. 

It depends on the hub's freewheel. Some hubs only have 12 or so engagement points and some have up to 72 or more, making the engagement a LOT faster. If you're used to riding a hub like Hope and then ride a lower end wheel like Shimano Deore etc you'll notice a HUGE difference and it will feel very strange and almost as if the hub is faulty.

Posted

i took her bike for a ride. there seems to be a big delay in when you put pressure on the crank from a standing start to the actually hub engaging (or is that cog). But it just does not seem good. 

how many degrees of movement is a "big delay"? As wheel builder says, it may just be that the hub has fewer engagement points than you're used to, and as such it feels as if it takes a while to get the pawls engaged, and power down - this only happens when you're backpedalling and re-engaging the free-hub, like in technical climbs where you want to rotate pedals slightly...

 

won't ever be an issue when you're riding and NOT back-pedalling. It'll also come in when you re-engage the pedalling after free-wheeling for a while. 

Posted

starting from a standing position with the cranks at the 12 position. I use full power to try and lift the front wheel up (wheelie so to speak). It takes till at least the 4 o'clock position till you hear the thunk and feel the power start to pull.

 

is this a wheelset issue, a faulty wheelset issue or just me ?

Posted

4 o clock position from 12 means 120 degrees of free play. Now, depending on gear ratio this translates to anything from 4 or less engagement points in a full wheel rotation! Even the most basic hubs have more than this.

 

If I am understanding your description correctly then something is definitely not right there!

Posted

just tried it again. man this is weird! and I dont know if it is the wheelset.

 

tried it with different gears, same thing. but if you go slow you can feel the engagement point

Posted

Various issues can cause the pawls not to engage properly. This can be as simple as dried out grease or incorrect assembly. I would suggest taking it back to the seller....or get your LBS to check it out if returning to seller is not an option.

Posted

just tried it again. man this is weird! and I dont know if it is the wheelset.

 

tried it with different gears, same thing. but if you go slow you can feel the engagement point

 

Hi,I have the same set of wheels and don't have any problem with engagement. I think you have a faulty freebody or too much grease in the freebody.

Posted

Back to the wheel choice.  I would go for the Rapide.  Kiwi can build a wheel and he only charges about R150 for labour. That is less than a Chinese sweat shop.  Me thinks this is because he already has a mark up on the components - I will test him by dropping off my components and see if he will build at that price for me!  My costing for that wheelset would be R4000. I prefer them because of the stock standard J bend spokes and enough of them. Also good support if anything goes wrong.

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