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Handbuilt wheels


Fernando

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Posted

In contrast, an Ultegra hubset off CRC is around R2k (vs a Hope set at almost R4k) and uses cup'n cone bearings which work perfectly but are more sensitive to regular maintenance. If you neglect them a bit it can cause permanent damage.

and set the cup and cone hubs up right and they will spin amazingly well

Posted

To answer your question!! 

 

A wheelset build by a professional wheelbuilder is significantly stiffer and better than a factory wheelset.

 

Also it's personalised....you decide on the rim, nipples, spokes and hubs....colour, etc.!!

 

Enjoy the ride!!! :drool: 

Posted

Hi guys. Are hand built wheels significantly better than the big manufacturers wheels like Easton or mavic. Where's the best place in Cape Town to have wheels built?

 

Fernando

 

I agree with all that has been said here, but IMHO it's not about the wheels, it's about you first and then the wheels.

 

What sort of rider are you?

What sort of riding will you be doing?

 

If you're super competitive, going to ride 1000km a month race every weekend, then it's worth lots of $ on wheels, they make a huge difference, even at 75kg, a stiff, handbuilt set of wheels will ride and feel much better. That's unless you go carbon deep section, then I suppose you'll have to go branded (not sure here, outside my comfort zone).

 

If you're a weekend warrior, maybe going to ride 300km a month, ride the Argus, 94.7 or similar, then a good R4k set of branded wheels will be more than adequate. Cheaper if you buy 2nd hand have a good wheel builder true and tension or even rebuild.

Posted

What is considered regular maintenance?

Differs greatly between road and MTB.  When you wash your bike (regularly) hold the wheel in one hand by the skewer with your thumb stabilising it on the end cap and spin it.  Any hint of rumbling and it can do with a clean and re grease.  

 

I see a lot of damaged cup and cone MTB hubs because they are most often on the wife/girlfriends bike and they go past the point of no return before the problem is picked up.  I usually suggest sealed bearing hubs for MTB and cup and cone on road only if the customer is prepared to check them regularly.  

 

Cup and cone hubs perform better than sealed bearings - which is why Shimano have stuck with them - but they have to be maintained!

Posted

I recently looked at getting a wheelset buils up but was way to expensive for me: Starting at R10000.

 

I eventually just bought some spokes, nipples and a lower end hub (xt), I say lower end as most hubs today can start at R1500 which have sealed bearings wheres as the xt has cup and cone which takes some maintenance but still a great hub, took all that stuff to lbs and had it built up.

 

Kept the same rim as it was perfect anf now it rolls great.

 

10k...

 

were you building onto Chris Kings or carbon rims?

 

Or was that for Wheel set, typres, tubeless conversion, cassette, and rotors?

 

3 of my bikes run hand built wheels. 2 of those are Hope hubs on Spank Spikes. The other is Superstar Trizoids on Spank Spikes.

 

Even at today's retail prices those Hope builds would cost around R7500. And who pays retail, anyway :lol:

 

If one shopped around, I reckon they could build a nice wheelset for about 5-7k. (that's based on Hope hubs, and one of many popular upper end rims out there)

 

 

 

Posted

what would it cost for an entry level carbon build ? 50mm clinchers, quality hubs and spokes - does not need to be the most expensive out there. For a heavy rider, 95kg to use on weekend training rides and the some events.

Posted

All I know is this. David Marshall built my wheels and they've needed truing only one since then. They where built in September last year. And since them I have abused them by riding a few enduro's and a whole lot of single track and this is on a hardtail so they take the full punishment. I had a set of factory wheels on my old bike that went out of true I took them to yellow saddles (now closed, but David Marshall used to be a part of that outfit from what I understand) that set of wheels never needed to be looked at again and actually felt lighter after the truing that was done (better power transfer or something). I had another set of factory entry level wheels with road tyres (for commuting) and these started to creek and I didn't worry about it because I didn't know what a problem it was suffice to say that wheel set got looser and looser and by the time I took them in the rear needed to be rebuilt.

Basically I don't know anything but I for one will be getting my wheels handbuilt in the future I expect. The cost difference is negligible far as I can tell. Also no one sells 26er wheels anymore so if I want 26 inch rims I've gotta get them handbuilt anyway.

Posted

I'm looking at new wheels and was considering handbuilt wheels. In my case the handbuilt were going to be cheaper. Decided on a factory wheelset because I don't have too many options (650c). But after reading this article I'm having second thoughts, it's obviously biased towards hand building by them specifically but their explanation of machine built is amusing! http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/wheels.html

Posted

I'm looking at new wheels and was considering handbuilt wheels. In my case the handbuilt were going to be cheaper. Decided on a factory wheelset because I don't have too many options (650c). But after reading this article I'm having second thoughts, it's obviously biased towards hand building by them specifically but their explanation of machine built is amusing! http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/wheels.html

Posted

I'm looking at new wheels and was considering handbuilt wheels. In my case the handbuilt were going to be cheaper. Decided on a factory wheelset because I don't have too many options (650c). But after reading this article I'm having second thoughts, it's obviously biased towards hand building by them specifically but their explanation of machine built is amusing! http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/wheels.html

You won't go wrong with some Velocity 650c rims and some good hubs.

 

http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/fusion-571

Posted

Shew very nice. I hadn't seen those. Decisions, decisions!

The article on hand built wheels is , well a little biased! (and that from a professional wheel builder).  As to the Velocity Fusion rims they are great and exceptionally strong for the weight.  I have used them on Tandem wheels and also made up a set of 29" MTB wheels from them for a guy of 120kg+.  My son races VA on a set built on Ultegra hubs.  Doubt that you will get 650c from the local agents though.

Posted

The article on hand built wheels is , well a little biased! (and that from a professional wheel builder). As to the Velocity Fusion rims they are great and exceptionally strong for the weight. I have used them on Tandem wheels and also made up a set of 29" MTB wheels from them for a guy of 120kg+. My son races VA on a set built on Ultegra hubs. Doubt that you will get 650c from the local agents though.

Haha David, you should be touting the article, it makes hand built wheels very compelling ;)

I think if I was on 700c, I'd definitely go hand built! And you are so reasonable, it makes sense. If one chooses wisely, I'm sure the cost difference for what you get is a no brainer! ????

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