madmarc Posted May 11, 2016 Posted May 11, 2016 I did the 1 X 10 KALBO conversion. My initial setup was the 42 on rear with 16 filler and a 34 NW oval up front, I used the existing X9 std RD. No matter what i did it wouldn't work. It struggled to climb onto the 42 and just wouldn't change down off the 42, no matter how much i adjusted the B screw or played with the chain length. I tried the XO clutch RD off one of my other bikes and it worked perfect. So I spashed out on a new X9 clutch RD - now it works like a swiss watch. So it seems that the geometry between std and clutch SRAM RD is different somehow. Still need to get used to the slightly different ratios but very happy with the setup. This was on a 26er build, so my next experiment will be to transfer it onto my 29er and see how it feels.
NotSoBigBen Posted June 1, 2016 Posted June 1, 2016 Being a bit bored this afternoon I decided to build up this 26" Bianchi HT that I had standing around with some 27.5" wheels. Used only bits and bobs out of my spares box so ended up with a 1*10 with a 27 oval ring (not NW) and a std 11-36 cassette, XT RD 'non clutch' Intend to use it now and then for training rides at Thaba and Rietvlei only ... Need to save my FS training bike a bit as it is getting hammered! My previous experience with 1*9 without a chainguide was not successful, not sure where others ride that find they don't need it but at Thaba and Rietvlei the chain would not stay on. Will go do some testing at Rietvlei tomorrow and see if perhaps the newer RD and normal chainring may make a difference?
Roneblack46 Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Being a bit bored this afternoon I decided to build up this 26" Bianchi HT that I had standing around with some 27.5" wheels. Used only bits and bobs out of my spares box so ended up with a 1*10 with a 27 oval ring (not NW) and a std 11-36 cassette, XT RD 'non clutch'Intend to use it now and then for training rides at Thaba and Rietvlei only ... Need to save my FS training bike a bit as it is getting hammered!My previous experience with 1*9 without a chainguide was not successful, not sure where others ride that find they don't need it but at Thaba and Rietvlei the chain would not stay on.Will go do some testing at Rietvlei tomorrow and see if perhaps the newer RD and normal chainring may make a difference?Image1464812984.155687.jpgYou are going to lose your chain. Either get a NW or a chain guide. I had a NW and normal XO RD and had no issues. Rapide got them for R400 odd. Nice build. Perfect as a training bike.
NotSoBigBen Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 You are going to lose your chain. Either get a NW or a chain guide. I had a NW and normal XO RD and had no issues. Rapide got them for R400 odd. Nice build. Perfect as a training bike. I am of the same opinion but have seen on some of the 1* threads that a few have 'poo poo'd' this theory so am willing to give it a go .... not going to spend any money on this bike but I do have a chain guide somewhere but because of how small that chain ring is and the 'arms' of the big one being in the way it may not fit?
Glenmx Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 I had a similiar problem with losing my chain on my 1x10. Have installed a front derailleur without the cables etc. Haven't dropped the chain since.
Kotiet Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 HiI do ride my single speed with 32 and 17 at back often. Done this years Atta under 8 hours as well with one gear..that being said..we sit with too much gears and let ours skills out the window. We change to often before we reach a climb..losing half the momentum just there etc.1 x 10 or eleven wont give you all what you want for every race, but then you ride with what you got.I did Epic on 36 front and 11-42 back. Your body will adjust to what you have when it becomes used to it....but the game has changed just now...With Sram having a ten at bottom ring...you can have lots of speed on bottom, and 42 -44 at top..allowing you a bigger ring at the front.Rule changer now..I got hold of a 44-9 cassette which I will try out. Now you can ride a 32 at front and still manage good speeds on flats...and crazy granny at the top...Will fit next week and see if it is better that the two blades in front I sometimes miss...specially in Baviaans..Keep you posted...Regards
Fisan Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 I am of the same opinion but have seen on some of the 1* threads that a few have 'poo poo'd' this theory so am willing to give it a go .... not going to spend any money on this bike but I do have a chain guide somewhere but because of how small that chain ring is and the 'arms' of the big one being in the way it may not fit? 27T chainring? Yoh... I know you said you don't want to spend any more money, BUT... Getting a (30t+) NW chainring will help you in many ways:1. Mounted to bigger chainring area - giving you a better chainline and...2. ... no crank arms in the way.3. No need to worry about dropping chains or chainguides.BONUS: 27T may be nice for climbing but you are losing a lot of topspeed. With 1x you have to - as they say - HTFU. Getting a 30T (minimum for 27.5" or bigger) may feel difficult at first, but you'll get used to it pretty quickly. Unlike PowerBalance bracelets, NW is no poo poo theory. That stuff works. No guide needed. No clutch either. Just Narrow Wide (and correct chain-length setup). Remember: Your current chainring has guides that are supposed to help drop the chainring (to a bigger chainring) - that is counterproductive to a 1x setup.
paarlmtb Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Being a bit bored this afternoon I decided to build up this 26" Bianchi HT that I had standing around with some 27.5" wheels. Used only bits and bobs out of my spares box so ended up with a 1*10 with a 27 oval ring (not NW) and a std 11-36 cassette, XT RD 'non clutch' Intend to use it now and then for training rides at Thaba and Rietvlei only ... Need to save my FS training bike a bit as it is getting hammered! My previous experience with 1*9 without a chainguide was not successful, not sure where others ride that find they don't need it but at Thaba and Rietvlei the chain would not stay on. Will go do some testing at Rietvlei tomorrow and see if perhaps the newer RD and normal chainring may make a difference? Image1464812984.155687.jpgI am running a 1x9 with a Rapide NW 32 chainring without a chain gaurd/keeper. I made sure my chainlength was based on the angle of the rear mech, as per a Pink bike article keeping the tension on the chain optimal. I have ridden Origin of trails, Fairtree Fire Ride, Boschendal Trails, Rhebokskloof, Welvanpas and most of the Tygerberg Trails as well as district roads and on Paarl Mountain have only dropped the chain twice in more than a year of riding. Once on a very corrugated district road and once on Rheboks
NotSoBigBen Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 You see gents sometimes you do something not because there is any logical reason or that it should work but 'just because you can' ..... I have 3 bikes with 1* drivetrains of various descriptions, 1 with 32 NW * 11-42 11SP, 1 with 34 Oval NW *11-42 10sp and 1 with 34 NW *11-42 10SP In my experience with NW chainrings I never had any chaindrops even with non clutch RD's, anyway as suspected after a ride at Rietvlei, not the bumpiest of routes but also not exactly 'manicured', I dropped the chain enough times to know that a chain guide is needed if it's not a NW chainring. Now to see if I can get the chainguide I have to work with that 27 setup .... yes I'll keep it 'just because I can'
henningvr Posted June 2, 2016 Posted June 2, 2016 Been running a 1 x 9 for just over a year now with a 30t Raceface NW chainring and XT RD 'non clutch'. Zero chaindrops to date. If you're going to use an oval, get a chainguide. Also, what Koei said - consider a 30t.
NotSoBigBen Posted June 6, 2016 Posted June 6, 2016 Hopefully that will take care of those silly chain drops, will test it at Thaba tomorrow
Fisan Posted June 6, 2016 Posted June 6, 2016 You see gents sometimes you do something not because there is any logical reason or that it should work but 'just because you can' ..... I have 3 bikes with 1* drivetrains of various descriptions, 1 with 32 NW * 11-42 11SP, 1 with 34 Oval NW *11-42 10sp and 1 with 34 NW *11-42 10SP In my experience with NW chainrings I never had any chaindrops even with non clutch RD's, anyway as suspected after a ride at Rietvlei, not the bumpiest of routes but also not exactly 'manicured', I dropped the chain enough times to know that a chain guide is needed if it's not a NW chainring. Now to see if I can get the chainguide I have to work with that 27 setup .... yes I'll keep it 'just because I can' So instead of swopping chainrings you just swop bikes!?
NotSoBigBen Posted June 6, 2016 Posted June 6, 2016 So instead of swopping chainrings you just swop bikes!? If you can why not
NotSoBigBen Posted June 7, 2016 Posted June 7, 2016 Think that little chain ring and the chain guide can stay .... I'll keep the little Bianchi after all ☺
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.