Scott Roadbike - How to tighten handlebar stem

[Dart]

(Scott Speedster CR1)

Anyone know how to tighten the handlebar stem, the top hex bolt is wound up really tight but there is about 5mm forward and backward play in the handlebar stem inside the post at the top.  It seems OK at the lower bearing at the wheel.

I have tried putting all my weight on it when tightening up, but (what I'm guessing is around) a Hex M4x35 bolt does not seem to do anything but hold the black washer plate down.
 

I am still cycling like this, wondering if it will damage anything. Heard horror stories about what happens if the bearing in the handlebar stem fails - breaking knee caps, etc.

Side issue - how do I search the forums here for info on this topic, Google searches within this domain are not the best way.

Oh - another issue, irritating squeak from the pedal cranks, synchronised with the same pedal position each revolution.  Is this crank bearing?  Hard to believe, the bike is nearly new.
 

 

Thanks in advance
 

[GT Jimmy]

Sounds like you might be missing the split ring at the top headset bearing...

[fanievb]

Sounds like you might be missing the split ring at the top headset bearing...

 

what jimmy said

 

[droo]

 

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threaded-headset-service

 

Google is your friend.

[GT Jimmy]

In that diagram its labelled the compression ring - the bit below the dust cover (I might have called it the wrong thing in my reply earlier)

 

As for the crank squeak - I had an irritating squeak coming from my crankns. Turns out it was the non-drive side crank arm bolts. Bit of grease on the threads and problem solved.

[droo]

what jimmy said

 

 

Lets start with the basics... to me it sounds more like he hasn't loosened the stem binder bolts. 

[Guest notmyname]

Lets start with the basics... to me it sounds more like he hasn't loosened the stem binder bolts.

This was the first thing I thought.

[bikebloke]

as said above ...

 you have to loosen the stem bolts before adjusting your headset (topcap bolt)

do it in the wrong order (with stem tightened first) and it doesn't work

 

the creak/click that sounds like its your crank as it revolves could be many minor things ..

 

try removing cleaning and regreasing replacing your seatpost which is most often the culprit for noises that sound like a crank as you pedal

 

put a drop of oil into your BB cups on edge where they meet the frame  (if noise stops then you will know  they need grease without taking them off )

 

drop of oil in your jockey wheels axles which also can cause a squealing noise while riding

[JA-Q001]

Also check that your top cap isn't tightening on the steerer tube, put one spacer underneath the top cap and try tightening it then,

[Dart]

Thanks for all advice.

I think that the compression ring is missing (and if all parts above the star nut are removable), then the upper head tube race too.   How I managed for 6 months is a mystery.   Bike arrived in a box, and only two rings for handlebar stem were in the packet.

Are the stem binder bolts the two that clamp the rings that hold the handlebars tight in the left/right turning direction.  (Sorry - in a rush, I should google I know).

I had them loose when tightening the headset bolt, for sure
 

[Dart]

What sort of spacer under the top cap?

This reminds me, when assembling the bike in December, there were elastic bands round the handlebar stem.  We could not get it tight at first.  Pushed the elastic bands into the gap between cartridge bearing ring and the stem tube, and got it tight that way.

That all lasted OK for 6 months, when the elastic perished a bit I pulled the loose bits off - and pulled some out of the gap they were filling.  Attempts to use elastic bands again as a spacer have failed - the play of around 5 mm is massive now, it was about 1 mm when first had the problem in December.

Solution is probably to buy the two missing bits (compression ring & upper head tube race) - guess that is it.

[Dart]

Regarding "crank bearing" squeak - it synchronises with the pedal position, and also when I am standing on the pedals.  So probably the suggestion of tightening non-drive side bolts - that makes sense.  So just an irritation till I sort it I guess.

Still not sure if cycling with headset play is a risk though ??

[Dart]

Votes of Thanks

 

fanievb : Great exploded diagram, worth 6000 words that one.  Gonubie - is it still a happy, small beach town?  Man, as a kid used to be there every December - on the beach every day for 2 weeks a year.  That takes me back.

 

droo : Ape Town  -   tops droo, that is tops.

 

 

GT Jimmy :  Enjoy your photoshopping of van Gogh's bedroom - funny seeing the MacBook and is it iPad accessory too?   <thumbs up>  
 

I'll do the reverse - stand my print of same van Gogh painting on top of bike and load as my avatar - ha ha.

[dirtypot]

You used an elastic bans as a spacer in your headtube??!??!   And when that perished you replaced it with another elastic band?!

 

Please, please, please take your bike to a bike shop.  Please.

 

You're not safe to work on bikes, and your bike in a condition like that is a hazard not only to yourself, but to others on the road as well.

 

Let a professional look at it.

[usxorf]

You used an elastic bans as a spacer in your headtube??!??! And when that perished you replaced it with another elastic band?!

 

Please, please, please take your bike to a bike shop. Please.

 

You're not safe to work on bikes, and your bike in a condition like that is a hazard not only to yourself, but to others on the road as well.

 

Let a professional look at it.

Can be mismatched bearing and cup - elastic band just fills the unsightly gap. But agree, take to bike shop.

[Dart]

@dirtypot: Actually not as bad as it sounds - I did take advice when first assembling it, and it really was fine for 6 months.  I know loose handlebars from many years of cycling (and for sure I am not a mechie myself) and they were perfectly safe then.  Now, well I am not sure.

I'll go look at that YouTube vid recommended above - as all the bike shops I have used don't have mechanics there on Saturdays - must be self sufficient as far as possible.