Building Frankenstein's Monster

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

They came in different rates yes. David said he has red, yellow and green springs

How much, do you know?

[popcorn_skollie]

 So will cut the one spring to reduce the preload on my travel reduction

 

Just be careful with this. A friend of mine cut the spring in his 55 to drop the travel from 160 to 140. It worked. He's been riding it pretty hard like that with no problems. But he showed me that if he pulls hard enough on the crown. He can actually raise the fork back to 160 and then its like this empty dead 20mm zone before its pushed back down to 140. I guess its always risky when building monsters. He explained his solution to me. Which he still has to do. But it went over my head. 

[CdT85]

Awesome! Will have to find out which I have. It feels pretty plush though. I can blow through half the travel just by pushing down while braking the front wheel. That and the fact that the fork came off an old small framed scott voltage fr10. I'm assuming (hoping) i got a soft spring for my weight. If not, at least I know there's stock.

 

According to David  red is soft, yellow is firmer, and he is not sure about the green.

I am currently running a yellow with my fat ass and it felt ok with my dummy fit/test ride two weeks ago.

[CdT85]

How much, do you know?

 

Paid 50 bucks for my spare spring

[CdT85]

Just be careful with this. A friend of mine cut the spring in his 55 to drop the travel from 160 to 140. It worked. He's been riding it pretty hard like that with no problems. But he showed me that if he pulls hard enough on the crown. He can actually raise the fork back to 160 and then its like this empty dead 20mm zone before its pushed back down to 140. I guess its always risky when building monsters. He explained his solution to me. Which he still has to do. But it went over my head. 

 

Did he add spacers to his plungers? or does his shock use a damper assembly? I plan to space out my plugers 20 - 30 mm and cut the spring accordingly. Internals will not move at all then. So the fork will stay 150 / 160mm travel, depending where I decide to set it too

 

Will have to play with my oil levels as well to compensate for the lower travel. Currently using 10wt in stead of the 7.5wt oil

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

From a bit of goooogle, the green spring seems to be a Firm spring for the 888. 

[CdT85]

So...I just received a box...

[Odinson]

So...I just received a box...

Image00001.jpg

 

[CdT85]

 

You know how it ended for him hey?

 

 

 

well mine was a happier ending...

 

 

 

 

 

[Eddy Gordo]

Awesome! Will have to find out which I have. It feels pretty plush though. I can blow through half the travel just by pushing down while braking the front wheel. That and the fact that the fork came off an old small framed scott voltage fr10. I'm assuming (hoping) i got a soft spring for my weight. If not, at least I know there's stock.

me too now. Just came from there

[CdT85]

Good Morning all, been a while since I updated this thread. Build stood still for a while now due to other responsibilities.

 

Finally got the Bomber 66's oil leak sorted, but still have to machine the travel reducing bushes. Will probably only happen during my Dec holiday when I have access to a lathe again. Also found that the bottom brake mount (post mount) was stripped and tapped to M6 and stripped again. So need to do some interesting engineering to repair it. Lastly the fork still needs a respray and new decals. Busy working on a design and I will probably ask Tyrone to make it when done.

 

On the rear shock, I still need to get the correct mounting hardware for the Xfusion O2RL rear shock. But also plan to machine some over my December holiday.

 

But I have run into another issue. I have no experience with SRAM crank sets, other than my old school ISIS crank sets. I got my hands on a SRAM GXP (I think its a S1000) 2 x 10 crankset (26/39T 120 BCD). Will be a better option above my current 1 x 10 setup as I am way to unfit to get her uphill.

 

 

The problem is, I am not sure on if it will fit my frame. My bb is 73mm wide, with english thread. Currently have a shimano hollowtech II bb in with a deore crank.The SRAM crank spindle is a wee bit, about 5mm, shorter then the shimano spindle. I got a very warn GXP bottom bracket with the crank, but the non drive side does not seem to fit the crank spindle. I cant seem to seat the crank, and a tap or two from a rubber mallet to seat it, dislodged the non drive side bearing. Do I need to space out the cups? Or do I have the complete wrong crank set for my frame?

 

Any suggestion guys?

 

edit:

 

from what I could find so far is that I do have the right bottom bracket for my crank set. And I do not need spacers as I have a 73mm bb shell. but it seems I need the part circled in blue. Can One buy this loose, or do I need a need bottom bracket?

 

Also still worried that the non drive side bearing came out. looks like the crank spindle is too long for my bb width?

[popcorn_skollie]

Did you buy the crank and bb assembled? As in were all the pieces together when you got it?

Your highlighted part just looks like a washer or spacer. Can't see it affecting how the arm fits on the spindle. Maybe there will be some play without it but it should still fit. 

 

I've hit a similar hiccup on the Azonic myself. After I took the chain guide off. I have this slight side to side play on the non drive side arm. Also 73mm bb shell. Also threaded. Raceface Diablo cranks. 

 

After you screw in the the bb cubs. With or without spacers. Any parts you fit after that belongs to the cranks then?

[CdT85]

Did you buy the crank and bb assembled? As in were all the pieces together when you got it?

Your highlighted part just looks like a washer or spacer. Can't see it affecting how the arm fits on the spindle. Maybe there will be some play without it but it should still fit. 

 

I've hit a similar hiccup on the Azonic myself. After I took the chain guide off. I have this slight side to side play on the non drive side arm. Also 73mm bb shell. Also threaded. Raceface Diablo cranks. 

 

After you screw in the the bb cubs. With or without spacers. Any parts you fit after that belongs to the cranks then?

 

Got the crank and BB from the same person, but the parts weren't matched. The BB was his, he bought the crank off here.

The crank spindle looks to be the right length for the frame. Removed the non drive side bearing and did a dummy fit, but I am needing about a 2mm spacer between the crank and the bearing cup, so seems like I need the missing part.

 

Only thing bugging me is the non drive side bearing. I measured the crank and it looks like a normal 24/22mm SRAM crankset, thus enforcing my idea that I just need a new GXP BB. But there does not seem to be enough space between the bearing cups to fit the crank if that makes sense?

[CdT85]

Managed to sort out my crank issue. Bought an new GXP BB and installed it with one spacer, although the installation specification for a 73mm bb shell requires no spacers.

2x10 setup installed, and feels a lot better than the 1x10 due to my lack of fitness.

 

The Bomber fork I wanted to fit is still "in work". The bottom brake mount (post mount) is stripped and still need to machine the travel reducing bushes. The fork will still need a respray, and new decals (got Tyrone working on them).

 

Also toying with the idea of maybe respraying the frame as keeping the raw aliminium looking good is a lot of work. thinking of going either white or ford focus orange on the frame. Still undecided.

 

All in all very happy with the handling/weight and look so far. Think some fresh paint might just complete the look a lot better 

 

The current specs for my build are as follows:

 

Frame: 2006 Mongoose Teocali Super, Freedrive, All Mountain, 124 - 145mm adjustable travel 

Fork: 2005 Marzocchi Drop-Off, 130mm Travel, 20mm TA

Rear Shock: 2010 X-Fusion O2RL

Crank set: SRAM  S1000

Chain Ring: Truvativ 39/26 T, 120 BCD

Bottom Bracket: SRAM GXP

Peddles: Shimano Saint PDM X80

Front Dérailleur: Shimano Deore XT, Low Clamp

Rear Dérailleur: SRAM X9 Type 2, Med Cage, 10 Speed

Shifters: SRAM X9 10x with Matchmaker

Cog Set: Shimano Deore, 11-36 10peed Cassette

Chain: KMC 10 Speed

Rims: Mavix 819, Tubeless, 32H

Hub (Front): Woodmann, 20mm TA

Hub (Rear): DT Swiss Onyx, 135mm, 9mm QR

Spokes: DT Swiss, Black Stainless

Tyres: Maxxis High Roller, Super Tacky, 26x2.35 (Rear), Maxxis Minion DHF, Super Tacky, 26x2.35 (Front)

Brakes: 2009 Avid Elixir 5  with 180mm Cooma Rotors

Handlebar: Funn Fatboy, riser bar

Stem: Spank Spike, 50mm

Headset:  1 1/8 WTB Team

Grips: Race Face ODI Lock Ring 

Saddle: SDG Bel Air SL 

Seat Post: SDG 2014 Alloy I-Beam 

Seat Clamp: Mongoose Quick Release

 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I vote for ASBO Orange, as Top Gear named it. 

[CdT85]

I vote for ASBO Orange, as Top Gear named it. 

 

Must say, that is also my first choice. Might as well make her look fast, maybe that will make up fir my lack of speed