Gearing noob question

[partydave]

Hey guys.

Bit of a noob with gearing and ratios and need some assistance.

I currently run a 1 x 10 setup with an XT 38t ring up front. I am looking at going with one of the Rapide Oval rings in front and want to know which size to run.

 

What effect does the amount of teeth have on the front ring. Less teeth, more effort but higher top end?

Do I go 32t or 34t? I'm an average cyclist, but I find I perform better with low cadence and will often float around in the middle of my gearing even on climbs

[JA-Q001]

Bigger gear up front does oppesite than a biiger gear at the back. So a 32 will be lighter or easier than a 38.

 

Are you climbing comfortably with that ratio? Having a very low cadence isnt very optimal, although you might prefer it. Maybe train to get a bit of a higher cadence. A cadence sensor will do wonders with this, rather than floating in the 60rpm region, try to stay at 80. You will better traction and obsticales will be easier to clear with the added momentum in your legs.

[partydave]

Bigger gear up front does oppesite than a biiger gear at the back. So a 32 will be lighter or easier than a 38.

 

Are you climbing comfortably with that ratio? Having a very low cadence isnt very optimal, although you might prefer it. Maybe train to get a bit of a higher cadence. A cadence sensor will do wonders with this, rather than floating in the 60rpm region, try to stay at 80. You will better traction and obsticales will be easier to clear with the added momentum in your legs.

Exactly the advice I was looking for. I climb fairly easy with my current ratio, almost never get to granny. So other than cadence, the change doesn't really seem worth it.

Will I end up spinning out with a 34t?

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Exactly the advice I was looking for. I climb fairly easy with my current ratio, almost never get to granny. So other than cadence, the change doesn't really seem worth it.

Will I end up spinning out with a 34t?

depends on the trails you ride. On singletrack mostly, no. You can maintain around 30-35k really easily on a 34t. It's those long jeep track hauls that may see you spinning out at the upper end. 

[lerouc]

38T upfront, not using granny that much, average cyclist...uhmmm i take it there isn't alot of hills around where you live?

[partydave]

Unfortunately single tracks are few and far between so I'm using my MTB as a roadbike/gravel grinder

[partydave]

38T upfront, not using granny that much, average cyclist...uhmmm i take it there isn't alot of hills around where you live?

Not really no, but I am doing the Desert Dash end of the year that has some serious climbs

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Unfortunately single tracks are few and far between so I'm using my MTB as a roadbike/gravel grinder

In that case, I'd say yes you will spin out. 

[lerouc]

As i understand it a bigger size oval is the same as a smaller size round. 32T oval = 30T round (climbing) but ehn giving a longer range on flatter routes. So if you are happy with 38T for climbing then get a 40T oval...

 

correct me if i am wrong.

[arendoog]

You are getting away with a 38 because of the terrain .A 34 up front is ideal in RSA if you are strong .If you are a cadence rider then 32 

[partydave]

I am not a cadence rider, I prefer to grind away in middle gears. So a 34t oval will be hard to turn on steep climbs? Do I got 32 then?

[arendoog]

Depends what you have at the back .If you have a 40 or 42 on the cassette ,then 34 will work fine .If you have only 36 as the highest .then 32 or 34 depending how steep the terrain is .I ride a 34 x 11-36 and can ride everything here in Gauteng .Sometimes i feel i need one lower gear ,but i will rather not spin out than go to 32 front 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

As i understand it a bigger size oval is the same as a smaller size round. 32T oval = 30T round (climbing) but ehn giving a longer range on flatter routes. So if you are happy with 38T for climbing then get a 40T oval...

 

correct me if i am wrong.

No, that's just marketing gumpf.

 

A 32 = 32 = 32, regardless of its shape. Where it differs is how it *feels* as you're turning the pedals, due to the firing of different muscles and where the majority of teeth are in your pedal stroke. 

 

Because the majority of teeth are in the "power" phase, it *feels* easier on the climbs. It's not, you're still spending the same energy, but your muscles don't feel it as much as the pedal stroke is smoother and your pedal stroke is more efficient. 

 

Same as on the flats. It may "feel" like a bigger ring, but it's not. At the same cadence you're still rotating a chainring with 34 / 36 equally spaced teeth. 

[partydave]

Depends what you have at the back .If you have a 40 or 42 on the cassette ,then 34 will work fine .If you have only 36 as the highest .then 32 or 34 depending how steep the terrain is .I ride a 34 x 11-36 and can ride everything here in Gauteng .Sometimes i feel i need one lower gear ,but i will rather not spin out than go to 32 front 

I will investigate and revert back. Terrain is very flat for average rides,  but gets steep at events

[partydave]

Just remembered that I have a Trutaniv 36t in my parts bin, might give it a try and see where that puts me

[lerouc]

No, that's just marketing gumpf.

 

A 32 = 32 = 32, regardless of its shape. Where it differs is how it *feels* as you're turning the pedals, due to the firing of different muscles and where the majority of teeth are in your pedal stroke. 

 

Because the majority of teeth are in the "power" phase, it *feels* easier on the climbs. It's not, you're still spending the same energy, but your muscles don't feel it as much as the pedal stroke is smoother and your pedal stroke is more efficient. 

 

Same as on the flats. It may "feel" like a bigger ring, but it's not. At the same cadence you're still rotating a chainring with 34 / 36 equally spaced teeth. 

 

I would love to try one out. But i am not willing to spend roughly R500 to realize its not for me.