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Replacement wheels


cliff_ross

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Have to replace my 29" roval hoops as cracks have started to appear around the spoke nipples in a few places.

 

Question is this

Do I only replace the hoop and then build the hubs and spokes over?

 

Or

 

Do I look at getting a replacement wheel set and what? Do not want to have to rob a bank.

 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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if your hubs are fine, and you can find a hoop with the same spoke count, then go that way and get some new spokes and nipples at the same time. Make sure you've got the right spoke measurement, and either order them from Rapide or give the hub and new wheel to a reputable wheel builder and ask them to order all the stuff for you. 

 

If you can't find a reasonably priced rim with the right amount of spoke holes, then it's always advisable to go the complete build route and sell the hub to someone who is in the same boat as you, but needs a new hub instead of rim. 

 

Also depends on your budget.

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Now's the time to ditch those Roval hubs too. A few of my mates that ride Spaz have had issues with their longevity, just like the Swiss cheese hubs on some Giant and Scott bikes. No high pressure hose required. Now's the time to plan your custom build, with a real wheelbuilder. What a lekker thought.

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Take a step back and ask yourself why the rims cracked.  Either the rim is not strong enough or there are not enough spokes.  If there are not enough spokes or the pattern is not strong enough for you can it be built over with a better pattern?  

 

If your hub is straight pull then you are stuck with the pattern you have.  If J bend you may be able to introduce more crosses. Generally No. spokes/9= maximum number of crosses.  More crosses = stronger wheel. 

 

If the nipples are aluminium you may struggle to get them off and if 15G nipples were used you may battle to find new ones.  If you replace spokes go with 14G double butted with brass nipples.

 

Should you decide to build on the existing spokes and hub you need the same rim as the original or one with exactly the same ERD.

 

Original equipment rims cost so might find that an after market rim + new spokes costs about the same.

 

My opinion is if your rims have less than 32 holes replace the wheels.

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Now's the time to ditch those Roval hubs too. A few of my mates that ride Spaz have had issues with their longevity, just like the Swiss cheese hubs on some Giant and Scott bikes. No high pressure hose required. Now's the time to plan your custom build, with a real wheelbuilder. What a lekker thought.

Yes it's a great thought. Would love to get a great set of carbon with possibly Chris King hubs

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Take a step back and ask yourself why the rims cracked.  Either the rim is not strong enough or there are not enough spokes.  If there are not enough spokes or the pattern is not strong enough for you can it be built over with a better pattern?  

 

If your hub is straight pull then you are stuck with the pattern you have.  If J bend you may be able to introduce more crosses. Generally No. spokes/9= maximum number of crosses.  More crosses = stronger wheel. 

 

If the nipples are aluminium you may struggle to get them off and if 15G nipples were used you may battle to find new ones.  If you replace spokes go with 14G double butted with brass nipples.

 

Should you decide to build on the existing spokes and hub you need the same rim as the original or one with exactly the same ERD.

 

Original equipment rims cost so might find that an after market rim + new spokes costs about the same.

 

My opinion is if your rims have less than 32 holes replace the wheels.

Thanks for the input.

Have 32 hole with J hook spokes.

 

If I went the aftermarket route what would you suggest?

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world is your oyster...

 

FLOW mk3 is the standard response. Won't go wrong with them!

Do the flows also have the oversized diameter that makes it a bitch to get tyres on/off like the crest mk1?

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I can't comment on Flows (have only heard good things though). I can however strongly recommend Spanks Oozy Trail 345s - they are nice and wide (30mm internal). I have them laced to Hope Pro 4 hubs. About 3000km in now and they are still running 100% true, no dings or dents in the rims, and the bearings are still smooth as butter. And I am a heavy guy (110kg) - pretty bullet proof combo as far as I am concerned.

 

EDIT: I also used this combo without any tyre/rim inserts till quite recently. Would recommed something like cSixx's Foamo inserts regardless of the wheelset you end up buying - really does make a big difference.

Edited by Grease_Monkey
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Do the flows also have the oversized diameter that makes it a bitch to get tyres on/off like the crest mk1?

They are quite wide but I haven't had much of an issue wrt this. I have broken the rear wheel though, also with cracks around the spokes. Apparently this is a recognised problem on these wheels (from someone in a bicycle shop) although I haven't been able to confirm this.

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Thanks for all the great ideas. Seems like the Hope PRO 4 hubs are the way to go..

Still a little undecided on the rims though.

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Thanks for all the great ideas. Seems like the Hope PRO 4 hubs are the way to go..

Still a little undecided on the rims though.

If you are a big guy, don't go with the lightest rim you can find. The problem you described with the cracks around the spoke holes/eyelets is cyclic fatigue. The heavier you are the more this problem becomes evident.

 

The Hope Pro 4s are very nice robust hubs, but not super light, so it would be a bit silly to team them up with super light rims which aren't robust and difference between a strong rim and a light rim is, say, 100g.

 

Importantly, get a decent wheel builder to build up with double butted spokes (the narrower center section of the spoke mitigates fatigue issues and saves a bit of weight for free) and brass nipples.

 

Having said this, you said in your OP that 'Do not want to have to rob a bank.'  Hope Pro 4s are going in that direction and by the time you have finished you will be looking at a wheelset in excess of R7k, I would guess with the flow mk3 or spank 345s mentioned above, more like in R9k. I'm not sure what type of bearing arrangement you have on your Roval hubs, but if they have cartridge bearing, just clean up the engagement system on the rear hub and replace the bearings all round and then build into new rims and spokes - probably half the price.

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