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Upgrade from Shimano 2x9 to Sram NX 1x12...


Red Bird

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Posted

Sunrace 11SPD Cassette (MX8) 11-50 Silver

Shimano SLX M7000 Rear RH Shifter 11 Spd (I-Spec)

Shimano SLX M7000 GS 11 Spd Rear Derailer

CSIXX Thick Thin Chainring (104 BCD) 36T

Shimano HG901 11 Spd Chain Rd/MTB - 116L OEM

 

...and then some washers to put behind the chainring. Do these seem compatible? I checked my crank and the BCD is 104mm.

 

The 36t will suit me for now. The only times I have used the lowest gear were once or twice a year in races and I get frustrated when I spin out at top speed. Could always walk or dodge or ride it to turn into a ninja.

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Posted

Sunrace 11SPD Cassette (MX8) 11-50 Silver

Shimano SLX M7000 Rear RH Shifter 11 Spd (I-Spec)

Shimano SLX M7000 GS 11 Spd Rear Derailer

CSIXX Thick Thin Chainring (104 BCD) 36T

Shimano HG901 11 Spd Chain Rd/MTB - 116L OEM

 

...and then some washers to put behind the chainring. Do these seem compatible? I checked my crank and the BCD is 104mm.

 

The 36t will suit me for now. The only times I have used the lowest gear were once or twice a year in races and I get frustrated when I spin out at top speed. Could always walk or dodge or ride it to turn into a ninja.

Yep. Those are all compatible. GS cage m7000 takes a 50t easily, with just a bit of fettling with the b screw.

Posted

okay here we go, its Ryno in Pretoria, 079 275 7776 i hope he doesnt mind the free advert as he makes a damn good chain guide 

 

post-51031-0-56395800-1530564057_thumb.jpg

 

post-51031-0-91919800-1530564065_thumb.jpg

 

post-51031-0-80093400-1530564070_thumb.jpg

 

just my 2 cents as I've looking at it. 

The 1x11 options are way cheaper than 1x12 and as far as i can tell on most cassette the difference is having a 18 instead of a 17+19, so this is really not critical i think.

 

@scubes, dare to share infos on that chain guide and put photos?

 

Posted

Just check your brakes. The clamp needs to be able to take I spec shifters. Otherwise you'll need an adapter to fit the i-spec shifter, or go for the "normal" version with a bolt on clamp.

The I spec is on sale so ja. I will check that out. Thanks

Posted

okay here we go, its Ryno in Pretoria, 079 275 7776 i hope he doesnt mind the free advert as he makes a damn good chain guide 

 

attachicon.gifblue.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20180702_223340.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20180702_223528.jpg

Scubes, that chain guide looks as if it's in the wrong orientation. Should rotate 90 deg clockwise, so that the point is at the rear, and the guide's flat inner section (under the bolt) hugs the chain. Like so...

 

1oneup_iscg-guide-1472041661014-1j856dyj

Posted

Scubes, that chain guide looks as if it's in the wrong orientation. Should rotate 90 deg clockwise, so that the point is at the rear, and the guide's flat inner section (under the bolt) hugs the chain. Like so...

 

1oneup_iscg-guide-1472041661014-1j856dyj

Good catch, couldn't understand how that blue bracket helps because it is too far along the chain path, by the time the chain is making contact with it the chain is definitely coming off. 

 

The black one's positioning makes much more sense.

Posted

That's assuming that you can move it down on the mount. If you can't, and it's a single hole that the bolt screws into, you need to elongate the hole so that it becomes a notch, and then get a longer bolt, and secure it in the right position so that the inner flat section is just 2mm or so away from the chain. Longer bolt & nylock nut on the other end. Otherwise all it's doing is being a decoration. 

Posted

thanks- i will fix it-!  :eek:

 

Scubes, that chain guide looks as if it's in the wrong orientation. Should rotate 90 deg clockwise, so that the point is at the rear, and the guide's flat inner section (under the bolt) hugs the chain. Like so...

1oneup_iscg-guide-1472041661014-1j856dyj

Posted

So I took your guys' good advice and moved it down the mount and used a nylock nut which I didn't have before and it is much more secure now.

 

The chain guide seems to work but as you can see hmm.. maybe it is the design , or maybe i don't need a chain guide with a sram RD and an oval ; or maybe it is the oval shape but the fit seems to change as per the oval- here it is top of the oval 50T and it looks okay-

 

post-51031-0-82714200-1530650728_thumb.jpg

 

and here it is bottom of the oval 11T where it is barely covering the chain- (if I move it lower the chain ring will then scrape the chain guide when it reaches the top of the oval again) 

 

post-51031-0-13496600-1530650734_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

That's assuming that you can move it down on the mount. If you can't, and it's a single hole that the bolt screws into, you need to elongate the hole so that it becomes a notch, and then get a longer bolt, and secure it in the right position so that the inner flat section is just 2mm or so away from the chain. Longer bolt & nylock nut on the other end. Otherwise all it's doing is being a decoration. 

Posted

So I have a huge disappointment right now. My FSA crank is not compatible with single chainring setup. LBS told me I need a new crank, which is not an immediate option for me.

 

Is there any way I could make it work on my current crank?

Posted

Pic? Is it a normal 104bcd double / triple crank?

I can try to upload a pic soon. It is normal as you describe. The bike is still with the shop. Will have a chance to tinker from tomorrow.

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