Skylark Posted November 18, 2018 Share Can I add a little bit of float fluid to my Fox Rp23 by removing the air can schrader valve and adding 2ml's of float fluid there? I don't need to do a air can service but I have noticed the shaft isn't getting much lube on it, so the float fluid I added at the last air can service has run out. To top up the float fluid I used to just screw off the air can and put a few drops in but then it occurred to me that just removing the schrader valve and adding some float fluid via there should achieve the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted November 18, 2018 Share yes , but it'll be very tedious , rather just screw the can off (you don't have to pull it off all the way ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 18, 2018 Share yes , but it'll be very tedious , rather just screw the can off (you don't have to pull it off all the way )How so? Removing the schrader valve takes a few seconds and likewise squirting some float fluid down the valve stem with a syringe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted November 18, 2018 Share How so? Removing the schrader valve takes a few seconds and likewise squirting some float fluid down the valve stem with a syringe. valve hole very small and float fluid is very thick AdamA 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 18, 2018 Share valve hole very small and float fluid is very thickDid you read the syringe part of my reply? Anyways it's easy enough to top up tyre sealant via a much thinner presta valve stem it's easy peasy via a schrader stem and float fluid is not very thick, it's about the same viscosity as 80W gear oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted November 18, 2018 Share Did you read the syringe part of my reply? Anyways it's easy enough to top up tyre sealant via a much thinner presta valve stem it's easy peasy via a schrader stem and float fluid is not very thick, it's about the same viscosity as 80W gear oil.shize , i didn't my bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Knoetze (sk27) Posted November 19, 2018 Share If it was me I would open it up anyway.If it was getting lube, and now it is not, that would concern me.Where did the oil go, even if it is 2ml, I would venture a guess and say you will probably need more to see a differnce too. Doing a quick oil replacement with new foam ring will not cost much.I would imagine the valve filling is to avoid having to remove the shock if anything, it's just 2 bolts and it's done on 99% of bikes though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 19, 2018 Share Rather take it off - that way you can check the damper as well. My guess is if you're having to relube it a second time between rebuilds your damper is in a state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 19, 2018 Share I've been leaving the service a bit longer than usual because I've been injured and only really riding on the road. I ended up opening the shock because I needed to remove it to do some work on the swing arm, there was still a fair amount of lube in the air can, more than I expected and no contamination so all good, closed it up and squirted some lube down the valve stem, good to ride another day. Steven Knoetze (sk27) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Knoetze (sk27) Posted November 20, 2018 Share I've been leaving the service a bit longer than usual because I've been injured and only really riding on the road. I ended up opening the shock because I needed to remove it to do some work on the swing arm, there was still a fair amount of lube in the air can, more than I expected and no contamination so all good, closed it up and squirted some lube down the valve stem, good to ride another day. Well done, worth the peace of mind.Happy trails and heal up bud Skylark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 20, 2018 Share I've been leaving the service a bit longer than usual because I've been injured and only really riding on the road. I ended up opening the shock because I needed to remove it to do some work on the swing arm, there was still a fair amount of lube in the air can, more than I expected and no contamination so all good, closed it up and squirted some lube down the valve stem, good to ride another day. "Only really riding on the road" is the cause of at least half of the stanchion, damper body and air can replacements we do. Hours are hours. Doesn't matter how they happen. Skylark and Steven Knoetze (sk27) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Knoetze (sk27) Posted November 20, 2018 Share "Only really riding on the road" is the cause of at least half of the stanchion, damper body and air can replacements we do. Hours are hours. Doesn't matter how they happen. Probably from all the pavement hopping on those boring road rides......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted November 20, 2018 Share "Only really riding on the road" is the cause of at least half of the stanchion, damper body and air can replacements we do. Hours are hours. Doesn't matter how they happen.But surely dust/contamination is a significant factor in wear, the bike has barely been off road since the last full fork and shock service? Granted I can agree that its still playing with fire not having regular services but it pains me to have to pay without having had the play.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted November 21, 2018 Share But surely dust/contamination is a significant factor in wear, the bike has barely been off road since the last full fork and shock service? Granted I can agree that its still playing with fire not having regular services but it pains me to have to pay without having had the play.. Damper fluid works no matter what the conditions outside are. And as far as air can, damper body and stanchion wear goes, the limited travel you'll use riding on smooth surfaces concentrates all the wear on the sag point. At the very least you'll want to be doing lowers and air can every 50 hours if that's how you're riding. Either that or get a commuter or a road bike for the roadie stuff. Steven Knoetze (sk27), Skylark and Headshot 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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