Sram Eagle - Wavy Washer?

[love2fly]

Hi there

My old bike had a Sram PF30 BB with Eagle 1 x 12 groupset.

With new frame I use a threaded BB.

My question is: Should I still use the wavy washer?

LBS put spacer then wavy washer, my understanding is wavy washer should go on first against the blade?

 

I get a noisy drivetrain in biggest 2-3 gears and the chainline is really crossed over and am considering trying to remove spacer.

If need be can I remove the spacer and use just the wavy washer?

 

Cheers in advance...

[Schnavel]

Without knowing the model frame and crank you are using, I'm guessing that the threaded BB uses a standard 24mm GXP axle?

 

If so, the wavy washer isn't required as the the bearing is preloaded when tightening on the non-drive side arm. The wavy washer is only required with the BB30 cranks to pre-load the bearings

[love2fly]

Without knowing the model frame and crank you are using, I'm guessing that the threaded BB uses a standard 24mm GXP axle?

 

If so, the wavy washer isn't required as the the bearing is preloaded when tightening on the non-drive side arm. The wavy washer is only required with the BB30 cranks to pre-load the bearings

Its an Adrenaline MTB, not sure what the BB Shell size is.

Eagle GX cranks....

[love2fly]

Am I right that the spindle is 24mm on one side and 22mm the other?

Its an Adrenaline MTB, not sure what the BB Shell size is.

Eagle GX cranks....

[DieselnDust]

If the Crank uses a wave washer then that has to be fitted irrespective of the bb fitted.

[love2fly]

Ive seen (online) instances that depending on BB it sometimes doesnt use the wavy washer....

If the Crank uses a wave washer then that has to be fitted irrespective of the bb fitted.

[DieselnDust]

That is not the way it should be. With those bb's are typically generics that are supposed to be Shimano and SRAM compatible with the use of a Bush on the non drive side to take up the 22mm axle diameter to a 24id bearing.

I avoid those unless it's made by Chris King enterprises where the spacer kit is made to better tolerances than those cheap things

[love2fly]

Im using a Sram GXP threaded BB.....Ive recently changed from a PF frame to a threaded BB and have read that external cups do away with wavy washer...

 

That is not the way it should be. With those bb's are typically generics that are supposed to be Shimano and SRAM compatible with the use of a Bush on the non drive side to take up the 22mm axle diameter to a 24id bearing.
I avoid those unless it's made by Chris King enterprises where the spacer kit is made to better tolerances than those cheap things

[DieselnDust]

All the sram gxp cranks I had used a wave washer.

even with the SRAM and Chris King bb's.

[Schnavel]

Im using a Sram GXP threaded BB.....Ive recently changed from a PF frame to a threaded BB and have read that external cups do away with wavy washer...

 

As per my original post above, you will require a wavy washer, with a SRAM GXP crankset.

 

You are correct above with your 24mm down to 22mm as well.

[love2fly]

Yip, I think I was being misled, I think you are right in that the wavy washer provides preload.

To help get the chain lined up better is it ok to use just the wavy washer but not any spacers?

I'm getting some drivetrain noise in top 2 or 3 gears...

As per my original post above, you will require a wavy washer, with a SRAM GXP crankset.

 

You are correct above with your 24mm down to 22mm as well.

[Schnavel]

Spacers are generally completely interchangeable, as long as the crank arms are centered relative to the centerline of the frame (you don't want to be pedalling with an offset angle) and the crank can turn freely, you can place and remove spacers on either the drive or non-drive side to your heart's content.

When installing a new crankset on a bike, I don't even look at the SRAM instructions as it's always different based on the type of crank, bb shell width etc. I go with what works for the spacing requirements and I have never had a problem in 5 years of working on my own bikes. 

[Quagga]

Hi there

My old bike had a Sram PF30 BB with Eagle 1 x 12 groupset.

With new frame I use a threaded BB.

My question is: Should I still use the wavy washer?

LBS put spacer then wavy washer, my understanding is wavy washer should go on first against the blade?

 

I get a noisy drivetrain in biggest 2-3 gears and the chainline is really crossed over and am considering trying to remove spacer.

If need be can I remove the spacer and use just the wavy washer?

 

Cheers in advance...

Wavy washer is used when you have pressfit. 

Normally NO washer / spacers on the drive side it is used to get bearings preloaded from the left.

 

Easy test measure you q-factor or measure from inside of crank arm to your rim on drive side and then non drive it should be 100% the same if not then your crank is not in the middle. 

 

Also if you using 24mm spindle then no wavey needed

[droo]

SRAM provide comprehensive instructions on their site for installing cranks. Read them.

 

I've seen many a hack job with spacers where they shouldn't be resulting in crushed bearings, cranks falling off, bolts snapping etc.

 

The wavy washer and spacer are to keep the drive side seal against the bearing on pressfit GXP BBs. The crank is held in place laterally by the step in the axle against the left bearing.

 

On threaded GXP BBs there will be a gap between the RHS bearing and the crank. This is normal, and if it's not there you risk damaging the crank or BB.

 

Also important for GXP threaded BBs is the BB spacers - 1 either side for 68mm shells, none for 73mm. 

[Quagga]

SRAM provide comprehensive instructions on their site for installing cranks. Read them.

 

I've seen many a hack job with spacers where they shouldn't be resulting in crushed bearings, cranks falling off, bolts snapping etc.

 

The wavy washer and spacer are to keep the drive side seal against the bearing on pressfit GXP BBs. The crank is held in place laterally by the step in the axle against the left bearing.

 

On threaded GXP BBs there will be a gap between the RHS bearing and the crank. This is normal, and if it's not there you risk damaging the crank or BB.

 

Also important for GXP threaded BBs is the BB spacers - 1 either side for 68mm shells, none for 73mm. 

WHAT HE SAID !!!