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Tyres “bleeding” Stans sealant


Sbloomer

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Posted

Any idea why my tyres seem to be “bleeding” stans sealant through the sidewalls like this?

 

They’re hardly more than a year old.

 

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Okay a lot has been said, some confusing, some true. Some not so much.

 

Those spez casings are not great. There are better options there, if you want to stick with spez (if you like the tread patterns) then I'd suggest the Grid casing. Yes it comes with a slight weight penalty, but it is worth it.

 

The tyres with the softer, thinner sidewalls will apparently give slightly better feedback (but not at 3.5bar) but they are susceptible to sidewall flex and cut easily.

The thinner tyres also weep sealant. The thicker tyres have another layer as part of the casing. This keeps the sealant in, and adds better support from the casing.

 

Myles and his mates ride Table mountain and they don't ride like fairies, so they need tyres with added support and more casing strength. If you ride Koeberg and gravel roads and the less rocky bits of Tygerberg, then you don't need these Neanderthal proof tyres.

 

I'd still suggest riding a GRID from spez or EXO from Maxxis for added support, more sidewall strength and a bit more puncture resistance, but you may as well just try to kill that tyre properly first before replacing it. You'll have to top up your sealant more often. If you do this yourself, remember to shake the bottle well and get the sealant out with an upside down bottle (stans bottles come with a lekker spout that you can hold closed with a finger.) this way you get the thicker bits of the sealant in your tyres and not just the latex.

 

I also suggest dropping your pressure. Even if you only ride road there is no point to 3.5 bar tyres.

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Posted

Control casing is a shop floor tyre.

It’s put on the bike because they’re cheap and light and no one needs reliable tyres on the shop floor. Always insist on replacement with real tyres before leaving the shop.

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