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Broken spokes, replace piecemeal, rebuild or new wheel?


Newbie321

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would that include his fantastically poor line choice (Straight at the sharpest meanest rock) down the trails too?

 

We may have to have a discussion about the subtle difference between "it broke" and "you broke it"...

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We may have to have a discussion about the subtle difference between "it broke" and "you broke it"...

If the conversation starts with "I was just ridding along ........."

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Dave and Droo nailed this one.

 

Crest rims are for sub-80kg riders looking for raceday weight savings. They're not designed for daily duties.

 

I rode Sani2C in 2014 on a freshly built-by-someone-else pair of Crests and destroyed the rear wheel over 3 days, and I'm 70kg, and Sani is manicured.

 

My recommendation would be to have all of the spokes replaced - nd at the same time, check if the rim is still straight when under no spoke tension. If it's buckled, even only a few mm, spoke tensions will be uneven to get the wheel straight when rebuilt and the spokes will end up breaking again.

 

Spokes under too low tension flex and fatigue faster than tighter ones.

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Dave and Droo nailed this one.

 

Crest rims are for sub-80kg riders looking for raceday weight savings. They're not designed for daily duties.

 

I rode Sani2C in 2014 on a freshly built-by-someone-else pair of Crests and destroyed the rear wheel over 3 days, and I'm 70kg, and Sani is manicured.

 

My recommendation would be to have all of the spokes replaced - nd at the same time, check if the rim is still straight when under no spoke tension. If it's buckled, even only a few mm, spoke tensions will be uneven to get the wheel straight when rebuilt and the spokes will end up breaking again.

 

Spokes under too low tension flex and fatigue faster than tighter ones.

It still amazes me to see Crests being sold OEM on average Joe bikes ... average Joe would generally be over the recommended weight, especially your run of the mill SA male.

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Dave and Droo nailed this one.

 

Crest rims are for sub-80kg riders looking for raceday weight savings. They're not designed for daily duties.

 

I rode Sani2C in 2014 on a freshly built-by-someone-else pair of Crests and destroyed the rear wheel over 3 days, and I'm 70kg, and Sani is manicured.

 

My recommendation would be to have all of the spokes replaced - nd at the same time, check if the rim is still straight when under no spoke tension. If it's buckled, even only a few mm, spoke tensions will be uneven to get the wheel straight when rebuilt and the spokes will end up breaking again.

 

Spokes under too low tension flex and fatigue faster than tighter ones.

 

This is all perfect world stuff isn't it? In reality we hammer our wheels and bikes as we find them day in and day out, like my 26er flow rear wheel built with chinese spokes that are 7 years old and saw duty in a different wheelset before this one. In fact they're on their third rim. The wheel is out of true, but keeps on trucking with no broken spokes, bar one or two in that period. How is this possible in the light of your "a few mm out of true" comment above?

 

I once rode a sub 3 Argus on a heavy bike with a badly built rear wheel that wobbled its way over the finish line and caused quite a few giggles from other riders. No broken spokes though and it trued up just fine. 

 

That's why, when I started breaking Italian bladed spokes on my rear wheel I wondered if the spokes were  not to blame. The supplier blamed the builder of course. I'm still not convinced.

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