Carbon frame respray

[Mars1967]

Yes it is

 Awesome. I like the clean look and the colour is fantastic.

[Verdant Mocha]

Busy with this for a mate, the painting cost R1400 for 2 colors including the 'fade' ... will put up a photo when it's done if anyone is interested

The frame came out looking really professional and the colour fade is perfect. Great job!

 

For the R1400 did you have to do the paint prep/strip yourself?

[NotSoBigBen]

The frame came out looking really professional and the colour fade is perfect. Great job!

 

For the R1400 did you have to do the paint prep/strip yourself?

I stripped all the parts and bits and pieces off the frame ... he did all the paint prep

[love2fly]

Just a Q to those that have done this before.

 

I have a black Adrenalin MTB Dual Suss (think its manufactured by ICAN and rebranded in SA by Willie Engelbrecht) which has accumulated a few scrapes and chips over time.

I plan to water paper the topcoat/paint off and apply new decals and then clearcoat.

 

Is the Rustoleum clearcoat any good? Is it better to use a two pack clearcoat or get one from a panelbeater but still in aerosol form?

Its likely a UD weave therefore is it worthwhile taking it down to be able to see the weave?

Obvioulsy I will be cautious not to go too far but my understanding is that the frame is very robust and over engineered.

Any tips or suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance

[Mars1967]

Just a Q to those that have done this before.

 

I have a black Adrenalin MTB Dual Suss (think its manufactured by ICAN and rebranded in SA by Willie Engelbrecht) which has accumulated a few scrapes and chips over time.

I plan to water paper the topcoat/paint off and apply new decals and then clearcoat.

 

Is the Rustoleum clearcoat any good? Is it better to use a two pack clearcoat or get one from a panelbeater but still in aerosol form?

Its likely a UD weave therefore is it worthwhile taking it down to be able to see the weave?

Obvioulsy I will be cautious not to go too far but my understanding is that the frame is very robust and over engineered.

Any tips or suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance

I’ve never prepped and resprayed carbon fibre before and I am certain someone with more experience will chime in soon. I have resprayed lots of of different things including motorbikes and cars. Getting a really good finish takes a heck of a lot of prep and finishing.

 

Considering the value of the bike, the amount of work it takes and the skill required (spray painting) to get a good finish, versus the cost of a professional respray, it is probably better to have it done. Just look at the result in the earlier posts.

 

Stay away from the Rust Oleum. It is overrated. If you want a proper and durable finish you will have to use 2k.

[love2fly]

TX.

I like to do stuff myself and sprayed my race car a few years back and grew up doing the same to yachts and motorbikes so I'm definitely doing it myself. A few people locally and overseas have mentioned that Rustoleum is good. I've used their Polyeurothane and Aerosol clear on some prices of furniture but think it'll be worth my while going to get one of my racing car- days mates to do the spraying after I've done the prep work.

[Mars1967]

TX.

I like to do stuff myself and sprayed my race car a few years back and grew up doing the same to yachts and motorbikes so I'm definitely doing it myself. A few people locally and overseas have mentioned that Rustoleum is good. I've used their Polyeurothane and Aerosol clear on some prices of furniture but think it'll be worth my while going to get one of my racing car- days mates to do the spraying after I've done the prep work.

 

If you have the experience and know what is required then great. I also much prefer doing stuff myself.

 

I know that the Carbon fibre also has a "gel coat" for lack of a better word, similar to GRP so it would probably be best to try not to sand through to the raw fibre. Again I am speculating some.

 

Even though I can spray paint well, l also prefer taking stuff to the professionals for the finishing coats. Having a dust free environment and the ability to cure the paint makes a heck of a difference on the final outcome of the end product.

 

I will spend much more time on priming, flatting and getting the prep work good than the panel beater would because of the time/cost factor. They also charge much less if they need to only apply the finishing.

 

The Rustoleum is not as resistant to chemicals as 2k. I have had some disappointing results with Rustoleum on more than one occasion. I suppose it doesn't help being somewhat of a perfectionist.

 

It is fine for furniture and and other jobs where the final finish is not critical.

 

I can't wait to see the outcome.

Edited February 4, 2021 by Mars1967

[love2fly]

Yupp agree with a lot of that. I know of a LBS outside JHB that does carbon repairs under a tree outside the workshop..I know that in boat building and some cars etc they use gel oat extensively but if you watch a few YouTube videos on bicycles and some of the supercar stuff they put it into the mould as basic fabric, bake it, sand and clean up and then clearcoat or topcoat so along with some restraint I should be OK. I'll take pics.